Broken area around the oil pressure sensor! Help!!!
04-30-2013, 03:39 PM
#21
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also, if you guys take the car to a shop...again - download the FSM for them...
the upper pan has a special sequence pattern of torquing the fasteners....
gL guys..
-J
the upper pan has a special sequence pattern of torquing the fasteners....
gL guys..
-J
04-30-2013, 03:55 PM
#22
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YOUR DONE!!!
lol at welding - you can not weld a CASTING GUYS!!
I have first hand experience with this with a friend....hands down...replace the upper pan...
there are MANY threads on this and ive commented on them all....chaulk it up to a learning curve, always research first....did you read the Factory Service Manual??? -- and see that this sending unit takes super low low torque...ie, it broke when you put way too much force on the wrench.....
(the fsm is free download in the maintenance section forum)
there is no real way to fix that...if whatever you try fails..out goes all your oil.......
I ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS tell people, if that sensor goes out, dont replace it, dont remove it, dont nothing with it...simply buy a oil filter sandwich adapter and plug a new oem unit into the sandwich port and leave the original sitting there forever...
sorry this happened..
hands down replace the upper pan!!!
-J
I dont know. I lost passion and interest to work on my car right now. Im so brain dead XP
Last edited by Carter86; 04-30-2013 at 08:32 PM.
04-30-2013, 07:23 PM
#24
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No way on that crap broken pattern.....this is not two ss pipe pieces joined with a perfect seem butt.....And to do so hes gonna have to remove the pan anyway, clean it dry to the bone...oil cant be present.....a tig welder cant get n there at all....
Not to mention no shop will do it due to liability.....
Its pointless....
J
Not to mention no shop will do it due to liability.....
Its pointless....
J
04-30-2013, 10:02 PM
#26
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No way on that crap broken pattern.....this is not two ss pipe pieces joined with a perfect seem butt.....And to do so hes gonna have to remove the pan anyway, clean it dry to the bone...oil cant be present.....a tig welder cant get n there at all....
Not to mention no shop will do it due to liability.....
Its pointless....
J
Not to mention no shop will do it due to liability.....
Its pointless....
J
05-01-2013, 04:04 AM
#28
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^ all good.......i just wanted him to have a clear detail of whats involved. not just "it can be done"
My earlier post was aimed to be a dead in the water end the idea of welding, because of this particular situation its a BAD idea....
--say it were to be welded (and any weld job there would be a blob of weldment all over) and breaks going down the road?!?! a pan replacement is the only "RELIABLE" fix.
---as for the pan replacement---
look into making a tower engine support or getting an engine hoist to support the engine from the top leaving it IN the car.
remove the pan and K member from the bottom.
Either way, its not easy, but it isnt impossible either..
lol, ask Acidjake all about it.....
-J
My earlier post was aimed to be a dead in the water end the idea of welding, because of this particular situation its a BAD idea....
--say it were to be welded (and any weld job there would be a blob of weldment all over) and breaks going down the road?!?! a pan replacement is the only "RELIABLE" fix.
---as for the pan replacement---
look into making a tower engine support or getting an engine hoist to support the engine from the top leaving it IN the car.
remove the pan and K member from the bottom.
Either way, its not easy, but it isnt impossible either..
lol, ask Acidjake all about it.....
-J
05-01-2013, 04:53 AM
#31
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You will see that this oil pressure sending unit is installed with ONLY 11 ft-lb and installed originally at the factory with RTV.....
so, like i mentioned before, i wouldnt remove it ever!!
but, if i had too, i would heat it up like crazy first - heat gun at least! then i would use a torque wrench set to 10ft-lb and use that to remove it....to ensure i didnt apply too much pressure...
from there i would adjust and slowly turn/tap/turn/tap motion, but not all at once...
if at all, thats how you take the oem oil pressure sending unit out.
and once out, pry the threads are ok....again, i wouldnt take it out.....just simply relocate to a oil filter sandwich adapter and leave the old one in there forever...
-J
05-01-2013, 05:25 AM
#32
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Jasonz-ya
I read your old thread about this item
http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/oil-f...15-thread.aspx
Can I use adapter thread (1/8 bsp to 1/8 NPT thread adapter) and screw in stock oil pressure sensor?
I read your old thread about this item
http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/oil-f...15-thread.aspx
Can I use adapter thread (1/8 bsp to 1/8 NPT thread adapter) and screw in stock oil pressure sensor?
05-01-2013, 06:36 AM
#33
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Jasonz-ya
I read your old thread about this item
http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/oil-f...15-thread.aspx
Can I use adapter thread (1/8 bsp to 1/8 NPT thread adapter) and screw in stock oil pressure sensor?
I read your old thread about this item
http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/oil-f...15-thread.aspx
Can I use adapter thread (1/8 bsp to 1/8 NPT thread adapter) and screw in stock oil pressure sensor?
for your case, yourgonna need a new pan? so too late now for a sandwich adapter....the new pan will have the oil pressure sensor hole there and you can install a new sensor at 11 ft-lb with rtv on the threads....
why you thinking of sandwich adapter still????
-J
05-01-2013, 12:31 PM
#34
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Just wanted to learn how it works 
Acidjake confirmed me that all de motors use the same oil pan. I'm gonna use the one from my old motor but id have to take it to a shop for the work since I don't have the engine hoist.
Acidjake confirmed me that all de motors use the same oil pan. I'm gonna use the one from my old motor but id have to take it to a shop for the work since I don't have the engine hoist.
05-02-2013, 06:30 AM
#35
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You can make an engine strut tower mounted holder??! quite inexpensively...the VQ doesn't weight alot..
in your garage? you cant make a steel brace and chains hanging form the rafters/ceiling above, remove hood??
OR
-J
in your garage? you cant make a steel brace and chains hanging form the rafters/ceiling above, remove hood??
OR
-J
05-02-2013, 06:56 AM
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Oh wow lol
Thats awesome. I'm not sure if I would try that however. Id just borrow an engine hoist from a buddy or just take it to a local shop for it. Thanks for the fsm though. Going to print it out tonight after work
Thats awesome. I'm not sure if I would try that however. Id just borrow an engine hoist from a buddy or just take it to a local shop for it. Thanks for the fsm though. Going to print it out tonight after work
09-18-2014, 05:37 PM
#39
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Sorry to bring up this old thread, but I'm having to remove my upper oil pan. Luckily, the entire front of my car was already off due to a wreck.. not so lucky there. Anyways, we have all the bolts out, everything that is connected to the upper oil pan off. My dad and I can't seem to get the pan to separate from the block. Any ideas? My dad has torn down many motors, just not Japanese. He's a little clueless as to why it's so tightly put together.. can't even put a razor blade to separate the RTV. I would greatly appreciate any feedback, I've got all the parts just about to get my Z back on the road and that won't be possible without the bottom of my motor.
- Tyler
- Tyler
09-18-2014, 05:45 PM
#40
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T-Cookie, no worries on bringing up an old thread - better than starting a new one...something is still connected if you cant get in there to cut the rtk. Did you use the factory service manual or haynes manual? If you have not, I would look into them before too long.