Broken area around the oil pressure sensor! Help!!!
#43
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I haven't done one on a VQ35 but on the older VQ I did, the QR and all the Ecotecs, the sealant they use is far stronger than silicone and it really holds the upper pan on there, usually there is a spot to put a pry bar and persuade it off, just be gentle. They sometimes pop free pretty forcefully.
#44
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Oil pressure sensor housing cracked
I have the same problem not as bad. I didn’t tork the sensor down that hard but being as the the oil pan is made of aluminum that’s why this is a common problem. If I was in his boat I would just replace the upper oil pan sucks ba*** but you don’t want anything to happen while your on the road. I have a question as well? Should I get this welded or? Replace the upper oil pan?
#45
New Member
I have the same problem not as bad. I didn’t tork the sensor down that hard but being as the the oil pan is made of aluminum that’s why this is a common problem. If I was in his boat I would just replace the upper oil pan sucks ba*** but you don’t want anything to happen while your on the road. I have a question as well? Should I get this welded or? Replace the upper oil pan?
#46
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
Welding onto any used OEM cast aluminum pulls the contaminates out and makes it difficult to run a good bead.
OP - I have a few extra upper oil pans and I'd be more than happy to sell a replacement at far below new or used prices - shoot me a PM and we can chat about it.
This is a 1/2" (AN -8) coolant return line I did for the upcoming turbo ... not great technique, getting my torch where it needed to be was challenging and I didnt have much aluminum to work with on the pipe.
This is my 1/4" (AN -4) for the coolant pressure sensor thats tied into the Link
This is my 3/4" (AN -12) fitting that will connect my feed line. It was a straight-up mess to run a bead and not get into contaminants. I wire wheel'd the surface, cleaned with brake cleaner, cleaned it with the torch set on it's highest cleaning setting and then re-wire wheeled and cleaned with brake cleaner. Portions of it welded fine and others were a train-wreck. Upset, I ground-off my welds and re-did it ... looks better and roughly acceptable...
And, just to show the OP it can be done ... one can put a weld on the stock around the oil pressure sensor...
Last edited by bealljk; 01-03-2019 at 08:27 PM.
#47
You 'could' weld that - I wouldnt recommend it and it'd have to come off the car. I've welded a few things onto OEM cast aluminum but like any welding you must clean and prep it after you clean and prep it before you clean and prep it.
Welding onto any used OEM cast aluminum pulls the contaminates out and makes it difficult to run a good bead.
OP - I have a few extra upper oil pans and I'd be more than happy to sell a replacement at far below new or used prices - shoot me a PM and we can chat about it.
This is a 1/2" (AN -8) coolant return line I did for the upcoming turbo ... not great technique, getting my torch where it needed to be was challenging and I didnt have much aluminum to work with on the pipe.
This is my 1/4" (AN -4) for the coolant pressure sensor thats tied into the Link
This is my 3/4" (AN -12) fitting that will connect my feed line. It was a straight-up mess to run a bead and not get into contaminants. I wire wheel'd the surface, cleaned with brake cleaner, cleaned it with the torch set on it's highest cleaning setting and then re-wire wheeled and cleaned with brake cleaner. Portions of it welded fine and others were a train-wreck. Upset, I ground-off my welds and re-did it ... looks better and roughly acceptable...
And, just to show the OP it can be done ... one can put a weld on the stock around the oil pressure sensor...
Gerry
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