Timing Over Advanced Help
#21
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Jumped chains will absolutely cause timing advancement or retardation. You've got the cam sensors picking up their signal sooner or later, and the ecu needs to compensate by adjusting to what the cam sensors are reading. The big question now is, are they really jumped?
Any oil pressure or solenoid issue should default back to retarded timing.
Any oil pressure or solenoid issue should default back to retarded timing.
#22
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Update: timing was checked and is on. my spark plugs where rusted to heck though lmao. Probably where submerged when water damaged.
Also my cpu has been openend I could tell by how all the screws where lose. There where burn marks on the cpu board and smelled fried. So that's probably my timing
Also my cpu has been openend I could tell by how all the screws where lose. There where burn marks on the cpu board and smelled fried. So that's probably my timing
#24
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If there are burn marks on the circuit board then I would almost guarantee it's the ECU. That said, even if the present problem is not the ECU, If it has burn marks on it you should replace it.
#25
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Agreed^
Op I would've told you that in my first post if I had noticed you bought a flood car, best of luck to ya. A lot of things are "waterproof" until they go under water.
Op I would've told you that in my first post if I had noticed you bought a flood car, best of luck to ya. A lot of things are "waterproof" until they go under water.
#26
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I think they shorted it out. There are signs someone was messing with it. Plus someone cut into the wireing harness to the cpu and there is a bypass for ignition. That coulda been wired wrong and shorted it.
#28
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Update:
Bought a new cpu. Had it ajusted for my car and unlocked it with uprev. New cpu with no burns on it.... $900 later today....
stillll NO fix!!!
Idk what to do now! Evetything I can think of and more has been done. Still to no prevail
Bought a new cpu. Had it ajusted for my car and unlocked it with uprev. New cpu with no burns on it.... $900 later today....
stillll NO fix!!!
Idk what to do now! Evetything I can think of and more has been done. Still to no prevail
#29
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Any updates? I am having pretty much the same issue. Except I got rid of p0011 code by replacing timing chain and tensioners, all sensors and changing my oil a few times to clean it out. (not in that order) The only code I have left now is the p0021.
#30
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I have the same exact problems also on my 2003 nissan 350z.
Replaced all cam/crank shaft sensors
Replaced VTC solenoids
did an oil change every 300 miles to clean out engine
$3000 later and I still have p0021 and p0011...cant pass emissions. this is so frustrating. Has anyone gotten to the bottom of this issue?
Replaced all cam/crank shaft sensors
Replaced VTC solenoids
did an oil change every 300 miles to clean out engine
$3000 later and I still have p0021 and p0011...cant pass emissions. this is so frustrating. Has anyone gotten to the bottom of this issue?
#31
p0021
ps. this seems to be a common problem but no one has the solution.
#32
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MY350Z.COM
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This is the problem with flood damaged cars. There's no doubt this Z was underwater for a significant time, and contrary to popular myth, ECMs are not waterproof. I suspect the entire harness, including both main and secondary pieces, are compromised. That's a huge task to replace and doesn't address potential issues with the PDM, BCM and ABS modules.
Flooded cars are totaled for a thousand reasons...
Flooded cars are totaled for a thousand reasons...
#34
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Update:
Sorry I never replied, ended up selling the car and getting a GTO!
Never did know the solution until now. After countless hours of labor and couple thousand dollars in parts. Found out it was a simple solution. Currently working as a mechanic at Ford and came into a simular issue with timing codes and car readings of 150mph+ at idle. Turns out a faulty Alternator causes the issues. The alt. not supplying enough power can cause some interesting codes like that.
Sorry I never replied, ended up selling the car and getting a GTO!
Never did know the solution until now. After countless hours of labor and couple thousand dollars in parts. Found out it was a simple solution. Currently working as a mechanic at Ford and came into a simular issue with timing codes and car readings of 150mph+ at idle. Turns out a faulty Alternator causes the issues. The alt. not supplying enough power can cause some interesting codes like that.
#36
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I have a 2006 350z revup motor and been having the same problem.
I have replaced cam and crank sensors, both vvt solenoids, timing chains, oil pump, upper orings on the timing cover. Still no luck
This is a oil pressure issue to the top of the motor. I can reset the codes and drive for miles on the interstate and never get the codes until I come to a stop and let the oil pressure drop.
Either oil passages clogged, orings leaking, or bearings are worn allowing oil to escape once warmed up. Another possibility is the camshaft vtc seal on the cam gear to the cover might be leaking.
Dont waste time replacing solenoids or sensors especially when you get both codes. Something else is wrong.
Just my findings.
My 04 350z does not have this issue but has just 58k miles.
I have replaced cam and crank sensors, both vvt solenoids, timing chains, oil pump, upper orings on the timing cover. Still no luck
This is a oil pressure issue to the top of the motor. I can reset the codes and drive for miles on the interstate and never get the codes until I come to a stop and let the oil pressure drop.
Either oil passages clogged, orings leaking, or bearings are worn allowing oil to escape once warmed up. Another possibility is the camshaft vtc seal on the cam gear to the cover might be leaking.
Dont waste time replacing solenoids or sensors especially when you get both codes. Something else is wrong.
Just my findings.
My 04 350z does not have this issue but has just 58k miles.
#37
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Reading this whole thing, I couldve sworn it was a bad ECU like OP was leaning towards but when he said he tried it that made me think wiring. I've had several cases where the complexity of VVT works against the cars normal function. And 9 times out of 10 it would always come down to a bad connection, burnt wire, corroded and intermittent signals. I can almost guarantee that would've been the problem. In which case I would've done same thing OP did. Sell it and get another car lol. Good read!
#38
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I really really hate to bump such an old thread but i have to. Lol so long story short in 99% positive i have this car. Same mods list same cage same codes same everything including where it was bought the time it was bought and sold and the history of the car is excatly the same. Now for the updates.
Still same issues.
Still same mods with aluminum rad and stage 3 clutch that im not sure if was at the same time.
Has 104xxx miles now.
Cant ****ing figure it out.
Its been running this long reliably so i doubt it was the alternator like op said.
SOMEONE HELP ME!!!
Still same issues.
Still same mods with aluminum rad and stage 3 clutch that im not sure if was at the same time.
Has 104xxx miles now.
Cant ****ing figure it out.
Its been running this long reliably so i doubt it was the alternator like op said.
SOMEONE HELP ME!!!
#39
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Update from op to now.
Cars drives fine in all modes
Cel still on with these codes
Loss of top end power
No longer in limp mode or slip mode
1/4 throttle everything seems fine anywhere more than that and it sputters. Like a ****ed up tune on a turbo car
Replaced sensors cleared codes idled and revved car everything seems fine.
Took it for a test spin with little over 1/4 tank codes back on.
Cant tell if maybe lower gas in tank could be issue or if it runs worse at night
Did throttle body reset. Ran ok for 2 days codes still on
Cars drives fine in all modes
Cel still on with these codes
Loss of top end power
No longer in limp mode or slip mode
1/4 throttle everything seems fine anywhere more than that and it sputters. Like a ****ed up tune on a turbo car
Replaced sensors cleared codes idled and revved car everything seems fine.
Took it for a test spin with little over 1/4 tank codes back on.
Cant tell if maybe lower gas in tank could be issue or if it runs worse at night
Did throttle body reset. Ran ok for 2 days codes still on
#40
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I ended up buying a Osiris Tune for my 2006. Had them custom tune it and disable the codes for over advance timing. Could tell a huge difference in the way it performed. Did cost 700.00 but it did fix the CEL.
Also, I would recommend having the timing chains set. The VVT will need the special tools to make sure everything is set right. I learned this from working on the BMW's with the same type setup.
Hope this helps. If not SELL THE DARN THING. GET A 03 - 05.
Also, I would recommend having the timing chains set. The VVT will need the special tools to make sure everything is set right. I learned this from working on the BMW's with the same type setup.
Hope this helps. If not SELL THE DARN THING. GET A 03 - 05.