Timing Over Advanced Help
12-29-2013, 12:32 PM
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Timing Over Advanced Help
Hello,
I am having some issues with my 2006 350z VQ35DE motor that are not allowing me to pass emissions.
My recent posts had no reply's so I will
try making another with more detailed information
to help the community. I have done LOTS of research on each problem
I have having and all the people never finished their threads with the solutions.
Camshaft Position Actuator Over Advanced Bank's 1+2 A&B
DTC Codes im pulling, 2 of each codes for both banks.
P0011
P0014
P0021
Symptoms I am having
-No top end power
-Running in limp mode
-If I dont keep TC off my vehicle enters slip mode and I have no acceleration to the pedal.
Diagnostics Readings
-From ECU readings all temperatures and numbers are correct.
--From VCT readings all the temperatures and timing # are incorrect
---All Done in neutral at operating temperatures
1. Fuel temperature is -54 degrees
2. Coolant temperature 64 degrees. (Obviously wrong or the thermostat wouldn't open)
3. Idle speed = 154mph - WOT speed detected is 200+ mph in neutral while revving
4. Idle timing (I'm assuming its the ignition timing) is 13-14 degrees advanced.
- WOT detects in excess of 40 degrees advanced.
Other Notes:
I run 91 octane with 104 octane booster due to the timing advancement so that it burns smoother. There are no signs of Knock Sensors activating due to detonation even with such timing advancements.
Fixes I have tried:
1.Replaced all crank & Camshaft sensors.
2. Replace both VCT Solinoids
3. Changed the oil
4. Replaced both magnet retarders and bank covers. Used new gaskets
5. Used Solus to reset ignition timing back to 0 but it goes right back to advanced
6. Checked the flywheel Toe ring with new clutch
7. I HAVE also checked my timing chains. they are correct and have not jumped a tooth!
Modifications to the vehicle:
-Bought the car restored salvage title from flood damage 2 months ago, so don't know everything that is done to it. But this is what I have noticed so far
1. Carbon Fiber Drive shaft
2. Aftermarket Oil Cooler
3. Samco Sport Hoses
4. Engine Grounding kit
5. F5 Fujita Air Intake System
6. Full Stillen exhaust setup (No cats, uses test pipes)
--
6. CPU Says Nissan and appears to be stock
7. Not sure if there are any internal modifications including Pistons, Bores, Fuel Injectors, Spark Plugs, etc.
Any idea on what could be causing my 6 SES DTC Codes? Until I get it fixed I can't pass emissions.
I will keep the community posted on any solutions or updates.
I am having some issues with my 2006 350z VQ35DE motor that are not allowing me to pass emissions.
My recent posts had no reply's so I will
try making another with more detailed information
to help the community. I have done LOTS of research on each problem
I have having and all the people never finished their threads with the solutions.
Camshaft Position Actuator Over Advanced Bank's 1+2 A&B
DTC Codes im pulling, 2 of each codes for both banks.
P0011
P0014
P0021
Symptoms I am having
-No top end power
-Running in limp mode
-If I dont keep TC off my vehicle enters slip mode and I have no acceleration to the pedal.
Diagnostics Readings
-From ECU readings all temperatures and numbers are correct.
--From VCT readings all the temperatures and timing # are incorrect
---All Done in neutral at operating temperatures
1. Fuel temperature is -54 degrees
2. Coolant temperature 64 degrees. (Obviously wrong or the thermostat wouldn't open)
3. Idle speed = 154mph - WOT speed detected is 200+ mph in neutral while revving
4. Idle timing (I'm assuming its the ignition timing) is 13-14 degrees advanced.
- WOT detects in excess of 40 degrees advanced.
Other Notes:
I run 91 octane with 104 octane booster due to the timing advancement so that it burns smoother. There are no signs of Knock Sensors activating due to detonation even with such timing advancements.
Fixes I have tried:
1.Replaced all crank & Camshaft sensors.
2. Replace both VCT Solinoids
3. Changed the oil
4. Replaced both magnet retarders and bank covers. Used new gaskets
5. Used Solus to reset ignition timing back to 0 but it goes right back to advanced
6. Checked the flywheel Toe ring with new clutch
7. I HAVE also checked my timing chains. they are correct and have not jumped a tooth!
Modifications to the vehicle:
-Bought the car restored salvage title from flood damage 2 months ago, so don't know everything that is done to it. But this is what I have noticed so far
1. Carbon Fiber Drive shaft
2. Aftermarket Oil Cooler
3. Samco Sport Hoses
4. Engine Grounding kit
5. F5 Fujita Air Intake System
6. Full Stillen exhaust setup (No cats, uses test pipes)
--
6. CPU Says Nissan and appears to be stock
7. Not sure if there are any internal modifications including Pistons, Bores, Fuel Injectors, Spark Plugs, etc.
Any idea on what could be causing my 6 SES DTC Codes? Until I get it fixed I can't pass emissions.
I will keep the community posted on any solutions or updates.
Last edited by StreetRacing976; 12-29-2013 at 01:57 PM. Reason: added modifications
12-29-2013, 12:38 PM
#2
I had that 0021 when I broke my cam
For a easy check to see if the cam is broke you can pull the senator out and stick your phone back there and take a picture.
The symptoms of mine were
No top end power and took a long time to start.
For a easy check to see if the cam is broke you can pull the senator out and stick your phone back there and take a picture.
The symptoms of mine were
No top end power and took a long time to start.
Last edited by 2bad240; 12-29-2013 at 12:40 PM.
12-29-2013, 12:54 PM
#3
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Thanks 2bad240. I will give that a shot when I get a chance. If there was a broken cam/camshaft. Wouldnt the car be idleing and driving pretty weird though?
And I dont have any starting issues, she starts on a dime.
And I dont have any starting issues, she starts on a dime.
Last edited by StreetRacing976; 12-29-2013 at 01:08 PM.
12-29-2013, 01:00 PM
#4
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Yikes, this is a bad problem.
The likely cause is an aftermarket part. The solution: You will need to trace back on the aftermarket products on your car.
I realize that my comment /advice is not very helpful.
--Spike
The likely cause is an aftermarket part. The solution: You will need to trace back on the aftermarket products on your car.
I realize that my comment /advice is not very helpful.
--Spike
12-29-2013, 01:10 PM
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I was thinking it was tuned for something aftermarket that is installed or that was installed and removed before I bought it causing it to throw the codes. I feel like its more of a CPU issue personally. I will have to try swapping it out. Im just nervous if I do, and something is installed like fuel injectors etc the A/F Ratio is gonna be all messed up. then will have to be re tuned and then have that still not fix the issue.
12-29-2013, 01:29 PM
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And if I am correct, That looks like the solenoid right? Mine looked a little different, but I did replace both Solinoids
Last edited by StreetRacing976; 12-29-2013 at 01:33 PM.
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12-30-2013, 11:23 AM
#10
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Yeah the vq has two oil control solenoids, one for each bank. My titan only has one, so I assumed the vq might have only had one. I wasn't about to uncover the old girl and look either. The failure of these solenoids should not affect the oil pressure reading on your gauge.
Do you have an oil pressure issue? You might have to start looking around at other things like wiring. None of your mods will cause this issue, so no concern there.
OMFG, I just noticed the part where you said it's a flood car, can't believe I missed it. I would suspect the ecu, but not before checking all the connections you can find.
Do you have an oil pressure issue? You might have to start looking around at other things like wiring. None of your mods will cause this issue, so no concern there.
OMFG, I just noticed the part where you said it's a flood car, can't believe I missed it. I would suspect the ecu, but not before checking all the connections you can find.
Last edited by myfirstzcar; 12-30-2013 at 11:26 AM.
12-30-2013, 04:29 PM
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Yeah the vq has two oil control solenoids, one for each bank. My titan only has one, so I assumed the vq might have only had one. I wasn't about to uncover the old girl and look either. The failure of these solenoids should not affect the oil pressure reading on your gauge.
Do you have an oil pressure issue? You might have to start looking around at other things like wiring. None of your mods will cause this issue, so no concern there.
OMFG, I just noticed the part where you said it's a flood car, can't believe I missed it. I would suspect the ecu, but not before checking all the connections you can find.
Do you have an oil pressure issue? You might have to start looking around at other things like wiring. None of your mods will cause this issue, so no concern there.
OMFG, I just noticed the part where you said it's a flood car, can't believe I missed it. I would suspect the ecu, but not before checking all the connections you can find.
Yeah I had a feeling the flood damage could of caused the ECU to get screwed up. That is my next fix I am still planning on. i was also told though, that the 350z's ecu is sposed to be water sealed. But I have my questions about that being true. I just got to find a cheap stock / aftermarket one I can get asap.
My 350z wont pass emissions so im driving on expired tag's and no registration
12-30-2013, 04:41 PM
#12
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How long ago was it flooded? You'd be surprised how long water can stay within those weather pack connectors....I've dealt with this on our lift trucks at work. I've literally had to unhook all the connections, put dielectric grease in them, and do reset after reset after reset to get the things working again. It will get in there, especially under water, and can be a real bear to get back out.
12-30-2013, 05:20 PM
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Alright Ill have to try that out thanks, and im not sure how long ago it was. Whenever hurricane sandy hit Long Island Newyork. But I bought the car out here from a performance dealership in Arizona. So whats gone on with it since then.
12-31-2013, 09:56 AM
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Update: She's in the dealer right now for diagnostics. Hopefully they can pinpoint the issue. Hopefully it's not a bad VCT sprocket cause I really don't feel like pulling off my timing cover tonight. My bets are still on a faulty cpu
12-31-2013, 11:23 AM
#17
Registered User
OK, Number one, is your oil pressure normal?
Second, I would go back and test each of the crank and cam position sensors to make sure they are functioning properly.
Third, check the sensor that reads off the flywheel. If that sensor is bad or if your flywheel is misaligned, it will throw those codes for both banks.
Since it is throwing the codes on both banks, It has to be, low oil pressure, crank position sensor, flywheel position sensor, or one of the cam position sensors could be bad and that may throw off the other one. Also, make sure that the cam position sensors are not leaking any oil, that could cause a false reading.
You might want to look into the VCT phasers as well, although, it is relatively unlikely that both of them would go out at once.
I personally had the same problem and it was because my flywheel was misaligned.
Second, I would go back and test each of the crank and cam position sensors to make sure they are functioning properly.
Third, check the sensor that reads off the flywheel. If that sensor is bad or if your flywheel is misaligned, it will throw those codes for both banks.
Since it is throwing the codes on both banks, It has to be, low oil pressure, crank position sensor, flywheel position sensor, or one of the cam position sensors could be bad and that may throw off the other one. Also, make sure that the cam position sensors are not leaking any oil, that could cause a false reading.
You might want to look into the VCT phasers as well, although, it is relatively unlikely that both of them would go out at once.
I personally had the same problem and it was because my flywheel was misaligned.
12-31-2013, 12:02 PM
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OK, Number one, is your oil pressure normal?
Second, I would go back and test each of the crank and cam position sensors to make sure they are functioning properly.
Third, check the sensor that reads off the flywheel. If that sensor is bad or if your flywheel is misaligned, it will throw those codes for both banks.
Since it is throwing the codes on both banks, It has to be, low oil pressure, crank position sensor, flywheel position sensor, or one of the cam position sensors could be bad and that may throw off the other one. Also, make sure that the cam position sensors are not leaking any oil, that could cause a false reading.
You might want to look into the VCT phasers as well, although, it is relatively unlikely that both of them would go out at once.
I personally had the same problem and it was because my flywheel was misaligned.
Second, I would go back and test each of the crank and cam position sensors to make sure they are functioning properly.
Third, check the sensor that reads off the flywheel. If that sensor is bad or if your flywheel is misaligned, it will throw those codes for both banks.
Since it is throwing the codes on both banks, It has to be, low oil pressure, crank position sensor, flywheel position sensor, or one of the cam position sensors could be bad and that may throw off the other one. Also, make sure that the cam position sensors are not leaking any oil, that could cause a false reading.
You might want to look into the VCT phasers as well, although, it is relatively unlikely that both of them would go out at once.
I personally had the same problem and it was because my flywheel was misaligned.
12-31-2013, 02:33 PM
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Dealership Update:
The dealership says my timing chains are off. I tryed to get ahold of the tech who worked on the car but he's off till Thursday. They got the same reading I did with the Snap-on Souls Ultra. They said timing is 13-15 degreese advanced. Well when at idle reading thoes numbers, if you press on the accelerator, the advancement goes up to excess of 40 degreese. Which wouldn't that indicate its my IGNITION timing that's advanced not my timing chains themselfs? If I don't see how the chains themselvs would increase advancement. Now my ignition timing would be understandable.
Also!
I HAVE pulled off my VCT camshaft covers and check both banks timing. They where both spot dead on. The only one I can't check without the timing cover off is the crank shaft timing chain.
Honestly it still feels like a cpu issue to me. What are your opinions?
The dealership says my timing chains are off. I tryed to get ahold of the tech who worked on the car but he's off till Thursday. They got the same reading I did with the Snap-on Souls Ultra. They said timing is 13-15 degreese advanced. Well when at idle reading thoes numbers, if you press on the accelerator, the advancement goes up to excess of 40 degreese. Which wouldn't that indicate its my IGNITION timing that's advanced not my timing chains themselfs? If I don't see how the chains themselvs would increase advancement. Now my ignition timing would be understandable.
Also!
I HAVE pulled off my VCT camshaft covers and check both banks timing. They where both spot dead on. The only one I can't check without the timing cover off is the crank shaft timing chain.
Honestly it still feels like a cpu issue to me. What are your opinions?
