florotory

It can be done both ways but both are large amount of work. I figured I'd pull the motor to make it easier to do a few other things as we'll. I plan on changing timing chain tensioner, water pump, and spark plugs as well. I may go ahead and get some headers as well since it's out. The clutch not needed cause it's an auto

florotory

I should be able to have the motor out today. All that's left is removing the drive shaft, tranny mount , engine mount and linkage. I'm sure I forgot to disconnect something so that as we'll lol

3hree5ive0ero

iTrader: (95)

What did you do with the PS lines/cooler? Did you just disconnect and drain?

florotory

Well motor is out. Prepping the engine bay now for pressure wash.

Yes I disconnected everything. The car has 115k on it an driven by a woman who didn't change fluids properly lol. So I'm changing everything. Figured it's out so might as well do it while it's easy to get to

350zadam

Nice, can't wait to see how this goes.

florotory

Couple questions.
1. Which holes do I use to put the motor on the stand? I know probably a dumb question but I would appreciate the help.

2. How the heck do I get te torque converter off? I just don't want to mess it up.

speedmon

You are brave!
1. Whatever holes you use make sure they look beefy enough to hold the weight....usually the ones where the transmission bolts were.....and make sure to use the right threads.....and try not to break off a corner of the block.
Here.....
Look at the 2:12 mark pic of 350 on a stand.

2. First disconnect the T-converter from the flexplate attached to the engine ...then disconnect the trans from the engine....I would leave the converter attached to the trans as it has to be put back on a certain way to properly engage the pump.



115K miles?
I would tear that motor down....and polish the crank, check the rods, replace the pistons and bearings, mill the heads, get bigger valves and reassemble with ARP hardware.....but that's just me.
Then it would last another 200K miles.

florotory

I've already separated the trans and motor. I didn't unbolt the TC first so I'll deal with that issue when I reassemble it.

Tonight my fiancé say well the motors out we might as well do some stuff to it. I knew I am marrying her for a reason lol. Honesty I don't plan on doing a huge amount of performance stuff. It's my daily. I got my Sti and rx7 for the performance stuff

Hopefully I can get the motor ready to go back in by the end of the week

florotory

Either one of these the right one to use on the pan and front cover?

florotory

We'll a bit of a set back today thanks to a faulty torque wrench. Broke 2 bolts thankfully I was able to get one out with pliers. But the other I will have to make a trip to the hardware store to fix.

florotory

well I am at a standstill for now. My torque wrench is not accurate and it broke 2 bolts. I have since bought a new one. I am now waiting for the 2 new bolts to arrive.

I do have a question in the mean time. How in the heck do I get the crank pulley off? I have tried pb blaster and a breaker bar, impact gun, and heat. Any suggestions? Thank

zakmartin

I haven't taken a crank pulley off the Z yet, but I'd assume you'd use a harmonic balancer puller. I'm guessing you could rent one from Autozone. I have a puller set, but I'm a bit far from you.

A harmonic balancer puller works differently than a standard gear puller. To be honest, I'd be afraid I'd wreck the pulley with anything other than the special tool that the FSM requires.

florotory

Got the pan on. Going to pick up a new thermostat in the morning. Then just need to bolt the torque converter and trans then back in it goes. I replaced the water pump, tensioner, thermostat and plugs. Then just cleaned up and painted a few things. Can't wait to drop it back in.

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

Hate to say it, but it's a shame you won't be able to check the crank and rod bearings before throwing this tired VQ back into service. Of course, a full rebuild will take more time and money, but a great deal of labor goes into just pulling and replacing the powertrain.

florotory

Yea I agree. For now though it is my daily driver. I got three other toys for building power. I tried too look at the cylinder walls and a few other thing that could visually get too and everything looks nice and clean ,no bad spots. Although only true way to tell is to take it apart.

florotory

Well I ran into a huge and frustrating setback. When I was bolting the transmission to the motor the bottom of the upper oilpan that bolts to the transmission broke off completely. Everything was lined up perfect and wasn't even 1/2 way to the torque spec. Email courtesy nissan about it and the won't exchange it. Email nissan USA and same thing. They say since I installed it and not nissan there is nothing they will do. So looks like I'll have to spend another 287 on a new pan and gaskets ect. Pretty sh:tty of not only courtesy nissan, but of nissan USA as well. I guess I would understand if the pan was installed and to the car with miles on it. Even then id have a hard time with it. So now I have a brand new unusable oil pan and another new one on the way. True definition of stealership

florotory

Quick question hopefully is an easy one. I just finished bolting the trans to the motor. I turned the crank pulley like the fsm says to do and it turns freely. I just happen to have my drive shaft attached to the trans and it doesn't turn when I turn the crank pulley. Should it turn or is it only when the car is on and in gear and fluid is pumping through it. It is an automatic. Thanks hopefully i explained clearly enough.

zakmartin

Since it's an automatic, it isn't going to turn since the connection at the torque converter is wet.

florotory

ok so the motor is back in and starts up. It idles a bit rough and yesterday it would act like it wanted to stall when I push the gas pedal. The code read crankshaft sensor. I tested it and if I did it correctly it was bad. I improved a bit but was still throwing codes. I bought a code reader to be sure I had the right codes. the codes I pulled were P1122 , P0011 and P0021. P1122 is the elect throttle. I think (hope) I can figure that one out. but the troubleshooting process for the other 2 is a little confusing. I pulled one of the Cam pos Sensors out and it looks like it might be bad visually, can some verify that from the pics in the FSM to the pic of the sensor. You can see the 2 scuffs on the top of the sensor. is that the ref in the fsm? the new ones don't have that


Sorry for the blurry pic. phone wouldn't focus

florotory

OK, So I replace both cam sensors. Car ran fine for 10-15 min no codes. Revved it a few times and nothing. So I shut it off few 10-15 sec. and started it back up just to see if it would throw some codes. Of coarse it did. Im not that lucky. So I know its not the cam or crank sensors. what else could cause p0011 and p0021? Thanks