Notices
Maintenance & Repair 350Z up keep and diagnosing/fixing problems

Couple questions on engine removal (searched)

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-17-2014, 11:09 AM
  #1  
florotory
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
florotory's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Venice, FL
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Couple questions on engine removal (searched)

Ok, so last week I was replacing the oil sending unit and broke the upper oil pan. Yes it sucks. So everything Ive read and even the dealer told me that I either have to remove the subframe or pull the motor. Neither one sounds fun at least not to just fix the oil pan. Im leaning toward just pulling the motor that way it will be easier to get to all the bolts and I can make sure I but all the gaskets in correctly since it wont be as tight of working space. Also I can replace the water pump and change out the coolant (car has 114k). My questions are as follow:

1. When pulling the motor is it just as easy to pull it up and out or am I better of removing the A/C condenser and pulling it out of the front of the car?

2.If I remove it through the front, I will have to discharge my a/c. Ho much will it cost to get it recharged correctly? I believe I'd have to have it vaccumed and then charged to get the moisture out.

3. Or am I better off just removing the subframe? Problem is I don't have a lift so it will be a pain to work on that way.


Thanks for all the help.
Old 04-18-2014, 06:57 PM
  #2  
florotory
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
florotory's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Venice, FL
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Bump
Old 04-18-2014, 07:46 PM
  #3  
Cux350z
hatersgonnahate
iTrader: (162)
 
Cux350z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 14,340
Received 956 Likes on 721 Posts
Default

you can swing the ac condenser around and out of the way. Just use some zip ties to support it. So no charging will be needed.

Water pump is no fun either...

dont rush yourself..plan for extended downtime since you need to do both installs properly and seal right. Dont want oil leaks.
Old 04-19-2014, 04:19 AM
  #4  
myfirstzcar
Registered User
 
myfirstzcar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: western New York
Posts: 611
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

I can't imagine removing the sub frame would be harder than removing the engine. The right way is to lower the engine out through the bottom.
Old 04-20-2014, 05:18 AM
  #5  
florotory
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
florotory's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Venice, FL
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

If I had a lift I would deff be lowering the motor through the bottom. However I don't so my only option is to hoist the motor up and out.

As far as extended downtime. I deff plan on taking my time. Too much work to put it back in just to have an oil leak.

Hopefully it will be a smooth process other than normal small issues. I may try to do a step by step DIY to post to help out the next person on here
Old 04-20-2014, 09:34 AM
  #6  
3hree5ive0ero
Retired Admin
iTrader: (95)
 
3hree5ive0ero's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Dallas / Chicago
Posts: 1,337,017,813
Received 78 Likes on 50 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by florotory
I may try to do a step by step DIY to post to help out the next person on here
This would be nice. When are you planning on doing this?
Old 04-20-2014, 09:39 AM
  #7  
florotory
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
florotory's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Venice, FL
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I'm going to try to start it today
Old 04-20-2014, 09:40 AM
  #8  
3hree5ive0ero
Retired Admin
iTrader: (95)
 
3hree5ive0ero's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Dallas / Chicago
Posts: 1,337,017,813
Received 78 Likes on 50 Posts
Default

Take a lot of pictures and document everything along the way, please.
Old 04-20-2014, 04:40 PM
  #9  
florotory
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
florotory's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Venice, FL
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I'm almost to the point that I can lift the motor out. All that's left is unbolt the tranny and unbolt the A/c compressor. Unfortunately I have to wait till the engine slingers arrive in the mail. I've taken a ton of pics. Hopefully I don't miss a step during the write up.
Old 04-20-2014, 05:07 PM
  #10  
Cux350z
hatersgonnahate
iTrader: (162)
 
Cux350z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 14,340
Received 956 Likes on 721 Posts
Default

awesome. If you post the DIY that will really show some hope for this forum!
Old 04-20-2014, 05:30 PM
  #11  
dkmura
General & DIY Moderator
MY350Z.COM
iTrader: (64)
 
dkmura's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Aurora, Colorado
Posts: 8,355
Received 1,290 Likes on 894 Posts
Default

This site has a couple of DIY threads on engine pulls and installs like this one:

https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...y-removal.html

Have you ever pulled an engine before?
Old 04-20-2014, 06:11 PM
  #12  
florotory
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
florotory's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Venice, FL
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Yea I pull the motor on my rx7 a few times. I was just looking to see what the best way to go was.
Old 04-20-2014, 06:54 PM
  #13  
dkmura
General & DIY Moderator
MY350Z.COM
iTrader: (64)
 
dkmura's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Aurora, Colorado
Posts: 8,355
Received 1,290 Likes on 894 Posts
Default

As you've said, the only way to go is to pull it out the top/front. Pulling a VQ is quite different than a rotary- the clearances are a bit tighter. It's also a job getting the input shaft properly seated once you put it back together. Unless you need to inspect/replace the flywheel/clutch assembly, it might be easier to pull the engine and tranny as a unit. Replace the gasket and pan while it sits on the cherry picker and then put the entire drivetrain back into the Z.
Old 04-21-2014, 07:07 AM
  #14  
florotory
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
florotory's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Venice, FL
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by dkmura
As you've said, the only way to go is to pull it out the top/front. Pulling a VQ is quite different than a rotary- the clearances are a bit tighter. It's also a job getting the input shaft properly seated once you put it back together. Unless you need to inspect/replace the flywheel/clutch assembly, it might be easier to pull the engine and tranny as a unit. Replace the gasket and pan while it sits on the cherry picker and then put the entire drivetrain back into the Z.
I'm debating on weather to pull the entire drivetrain an motor or just motor. Yes I deff agree there is a big diff between the rx7 and my 350z lol. I can almost pick up the rotary without a picker.

Anyways a question about pulling it. I was looking through the fsm and it says to remove the steering shaft. Do I need to or is that cause they are dropping the motor out the bottom? Thanks.
Old 04-21-2014, 08:28 AM
  #15  
florotory
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
florotory's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Venice, FL
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Also I may have to pull the motor through the front of the car instead of up and out. Due mainly cause of the exhaust manifolds are a pita to get to. So that being said does anyone know what it would cost to recharge the a/c properly? Thanks
Old 04-21-2014, 09:57 AM
  #16  
padilla03z
New Member
iTrader: (2)
 
padilla03z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Fort Bragg
Posts: 238
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Dynosty charged me $100 during my engine build for the ac recharge.
Old 04-21-2014, 04:58 PM
  #17  
florotory
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
florotory's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Venice, FL
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Name:  27BAE745-DE00-417A-8BBC-7A9CA0C550F2.jpg
Views: 333
Size:  153.7 KB
Here is what I managed to get done today. Tough doing the labor 100% by myself. But I've managed to write about 90% of the step by step. Only part I may have missed is taking te front end off but, it's pretty easy. Oil pan shows up today. Waiting for a couple more things to show up.
Old 04-21-2014, 07:40 PM
  #18  
florotory
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
florotory's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Venice, FL
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Just ordered the timing chain tensioner. Figured while it was out I might as well change a few things. Ill probably do the thermostat, and plugs as well.
Old 04-22-2014, 10:30 AM
  #19  
3hree5ive0ero
Retired Admin
iTrader: (95)
 
3hree5ive0ero's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Dallas / Chicago
Posts: 1,337,017,813
Received 78 Likes on 50 Posts
Default

Awesome. Looking forward to the detailed step by step DIY.
Old 04-24-2014, 10:58 PM
  #20  
speedmon
Registered User
 
speedmon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: OCCA
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I'm kinda new to 350s.....but I think you can access the upper oil pan by disconnecting the front suspension and dropping the front cradle....seems like a lot less work....to me....I could be wrong.

If I pulled the engine I'd be too tempted rebuild it.....and the trans and throw in a new clutch assembly as well.

Your engine and bay look really clean though....

Good luck with the project.

On the AC recharge...you could probably manage that yourself...child's play compared to what you are doing.
Look on YouTube......AC recharge...Look for the Eric the Car guy video.....step by step. Eezy-peezy

Last edited by speedmon; 04-24-2014 at 11:05 PM.


Quick Reply: Couple questions on engine removal (searched)



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 10:58 PM.