Oil in Spark Plug Tube Cyl6
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Oil in Spark Plug Tube Cyl6
So I was changing my spark plugs because I was getting some pretty bad gas mileage and because its definitely time. (97k miles)
Driver's side front cylinder was fine besides some fouling on the plug.
Driver's side middle (cyl 4?) had just a bit of wetness on it.
Driver's side back (cyl 6 i think) when I removed the coil pack was absolutely dripping with oil.
From some reading I've pretty much figure out that this is a relatively common problem and that my spark plug tube seals are bad and that I can't replace just them.
So I'm just looking at what my options are now, since the only topics I really see on this are at least over a year old.
I've seen the companies R&D and LFab and was wondering if anyone knew if their product holds up? (Though it seems R&D doesn't have any premanufactured kits right now, only the DIY)
Or should I just bight the bullet and buy 2 new Valve covers?
Driver's side front cylinder was fine besides some fouling on the plug.
Driver's side middle (cyl 4?) had just a bit of wetness on it.
Driver's side back (cyl 6 i think) when I removed the coil pack was absolutely dripping with oil.
From some reading I've pretty much figure out that this is a relatively common problem and that my spark plug tube seals are bad and that I can't replace just them.
So I'm just looking at what my options are now, since the only topics I really see on this are at least over a year old.
I've seen the companies R&D and LFab and was wondering if anyone knew if their product holds up? (Though it seems R&D doesn't have any premanufactured kits right now, only the DIY)
Or should I just bight the bullet and buy 2 new Valve covers?
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And you do it the same as the R&D method? Drill out the baffle and put the new one in with RTV or permatrex? And how precise do you have to be with that. Like I don't want to mess it up by being a couple mm off and then still need new valve covers in the end.
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only thing i can find are drilling out the old ones and putting in new ones
or buying the already converted ones from R&D or LFab
but i'd like to talk to people that have done it before I commit to either.
or buying the already converted ones from R&D or LFab
but i'd like to talk to people that have done it before I commit to either.
#6
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Consider just leaving it alone too unless the fix you find is known to be permanent. I bought my 2005 new. Went to do the 100k plug change and had oil in a couple of holes. Discovered this is common on VQ engine. Wasn't happy with any of the solutions. Went through the same thing on a 1994 Ford Probe GT but the fix on that was new valve cover gaskets and it lasted for 10 years. The Z I'm not convinced your effort will pay off. I now have 219k on the Z and noticed that at 200k the plug holes were about the same. Just keep an eye on it. If there are no other leaks it shouldn't fill up higher than a certain amount. I'm sure I burn some of it off but I never add more than 3/4 of a quart every 3k which is probably normal anyway for a high mileage car that sees a lot of highway driving.
What this DID cause was a couple of the boots to become so oil saturated that I had a misfire this February but that was after 200k!!!
Just something to think about...
What this DID cause was a couple of the boots to become so oil saturated that I had a misfire this February but that was after 200k!!!
Just something to think about...
#7
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From what I've been reading it appears the 03 Maxima uses the same seals.
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sh...an/maxima.html
Just have to cut the baffle like R&D tells you to do and they should be a direct replacement.
I believe beck arnley has a set that has all the seals for the valve cover as well.
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sh...an/maxima.html
Just have to cut the baffle like R&D tells you to do and they should be a direct replacement.
I believe beck arnley has a set that has all the seals for the valve cover as well.
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#8
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I tried doing this myself, you have to be very precise with the drilling so you need to make something that will keep everything lined up while you drill. Also I tried the maxima seals and they didn't work.
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Consider just leaving it alone too unless the fix you find is known to be permanent. I bought my 2005 new. Went to do the 100k plug change and had oil in a couple of holes. Discovered this is common on VQ engine. Wasn't happy with any of the solutions. Went through the same thing on a 1994 Ford Probe GT but the fix on that was new valve cover gaskets and it lasted for 10 years. The Z I'm not convinced your effort will pay off. I now have 219k on the Z and noticed that at 200k the plug holes were about the same. Just keep an eye on it. If there are no other leaks it shouldn't fill up higher than a certain amount. I'm sure I burn some of it off but I never add more than 3/4 of a quart every 3k which is probably normal anyway for a high mileage car that sees a lot of highway driving.
What this DID cause was a couple of the boots to become so oil saturated that I had a misfire this February but that was after 200k!!!
Just something to think about...
What this DID cause was a couple of the boots to become so oil saturated that I had a misfire this February but that was after 200k!!!
Just something to think about...
Really wish I could talk to someone who bought the R&D premanufactured valve covers though
#10
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I have the same problem, I decided to just leave it alone and check on it periodically it seems like too much of a pain to change if the car still runs fine. I will probably fix it when I rebuild the engine (which is at least 2 years away) I have not had any problems with it and am still driving it hard. I don't have the tools necessary to drill out the old one so I am not even going to attempt it haha.
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I was never satisfied by anything I found about the rebuilds, So I bought brad new OEM ones. Hurt the pocket book a bit since I JUST had to replace the clutch, but the car is running good again. Except I might be leaking about at my test pipes...but thats another matter
#13
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how much work was it to replace them? Never paid much attention. My Ford was about a 7 hour day to get the plenum off and all the vacuum lines labeled etc.. Kind of a pain... I suspect the Z is just as bad - doesn't matter which direction the engine is mounted in, the same hardware has to come off basically on an overhead cam engine.
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how much work was it to replace them? Never paid much attention. My Ford was about a 7 hour day to get the plenum off and all the vacuum lines labeled etc.. Kind of a pain... I suspect the Z is just as bad - doesn't matter which direction the engine is mounted in, the same hardware has to come off basically on an overhead cam engine.
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