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Oil in Spark Plug Tube Cyl6

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Old 05-05-2014, 06:20 AM
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Tearik
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Default Oil in Spark Plug Tube Cyl6

So I was changing my spark plugs because I was getting some pretty bad gas mileage and because its definitely time. (97k miles)

Driver's side front cylinder was fine besides some fouling on the plug.
Driver's side middle (cyl 4?) had just a bit of wetness on it.
Driver's side back (cyl 6 i think) when I removed the coil pack was absolutely dripping with oil.

From some reading I've pretty much figure out that this is a relatively common problem and that my spark plug tube seals are bad and that I can't replace just them.

So I'm just looking at what my options are now, since the only topics I really see on this are at least over a year old.
I've seen the companies R&D and LFab and was wondering if anyone knew if their product holds up? (Though it seems R&D doesn't have any premanufactured kits right now, only the DIY)
Or should I just bight the bullet and buy 2 new Valve covers?
Old 05-05-2014, 06:39 AM
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92K1500
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I've read a thread that tells you how to replace the seals but I don't remember exactly how to do it.

I think the Altima covers use the same seals so you can buy those for like 1/4 the price of 350z covers and swap the seals out.
Old 05-05-2014, 06:52 AM
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Tearik
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And you do it the same as the R&D method? Drill out the baffle and put the new one in with RTV or permatrex? And how precise do you have to be with that. Like I don't want to mess it up by being a couple mm off and then still need new valve covers in the end.
Old 05-05-2014, 08:46 AM
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92K1500
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I have no idea. I've never done it. I need to do something though because my back 2 tubes had a bit of oil in them when I did my plugs as well.

It's been months since I've read that thread. I'll see if I can find it.
Old 05-05-2014, 08:40 PM
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Tearik
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only thing i can find are drilling out the old ones and putting in new ones

or buying the already converted ones from R&D or LFab

but i'd like to talk to people that have done it before I commit to either.
Old 05-06-2014, 03:01 AM
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bjr
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Consider just leaving it alone too unless the fix you find is known to be permanent. I bought my 2005 new. Went to do the 100k plug change and had oil in a couple of holes. Discovered this is common on VQ engine. Wasn't happy with any of the solutions. Went through the same thing on a 1994 Ford Probe GT but the fix on that was new valve cover gaskets and it lasted for 10 years. The Z I'm not convinced your effort will pay off. I now have 219k on the Z and noticed that at 200k the plug holes were about the same. Just keep an eye on it. If there are no other leaks it shouldn't fill up higher than a certain amount. I'm sure I burn some of it off but I never add more than 3/4 of a quart every 3k which is probably normal anyway for a high mileage car that sees a lot of highway driving.
What this DID cause was a couple of the boots to become so oil saturated that I had a misfire this February but that was after 200k!!!
Just something to think about...
Old 05-06-2014, 06:42 AM
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92K1500
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From what I've been reading it appears the 03 Maxima uses the same seals.

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sh...an/maxima.html

Just have to cut the baffle like R&D tells you to do and they should be a direct replacement.

I believe beck arnley has a set that has all the seals for the valve cover as well.
Old 05-06-2014, 07:57 AM
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Koolsilver
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I tried doing this myself, you have to be very precise with the drilling so you need to make something that will keep everything lined up while you drill. Also I tried the maxima seals and they didn't work.
Old 05-06-2014, 08:21 AM
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Tearik
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Originally Posted by bjr
Consider just leaving it alone too unless the fix you find is known to be permanent. I bought my 2005 new. Went to do the 100k plug change and had oil in a couple of holes. Discovered this is common on VQ engine. Wasn't happy with any of the solutions. Went through the same thing on a 1994 Ford Probe GT but the fix on that was new valve cover gaskets and it lasted for 10 years. The Z I'm not convinced your effort will pay off. I now have 219k on the Z and noticed that at 200k the plug holes were about the same. Just keep an eye on it. If there are no other leaks it shouldn't fill up higher than a certain amount. I'm sure I burn some of it off but I never add more than 3/4 of a quart every 3k which is probably normal anyway for a high mileage car that sees a lot of highway driving.
What this DID cause was a couple of the boots to become so oil saturated that I had a misfire this February but that was after 200k!!!
Just something to think about...
With the amount of oil I found in the tube I can't just leave it alone. It'll drive me insane.

Really wish I could talk to someone who bought the R&D premanufactured valve covers though
Old 05-06-2014, 09:46 AM
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I have the same problem, I decided to just leave it alone and check on it periodically it seems like too much of a pain to change if the car still runs fine. I will probably fix it when I rebuild the engine (which is at least 2 years away) I have not had any problems with it and am still driving it hard. I don't have the tools necessary to drill out the old one so I am not even going to attempt it haha.
Old 05-06-2014, 11:15 AM
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Instead of spending all that money I figure I'll just pull the rear plugs every 50k or so and drain the oil. Don't let it fill up so high.
Old 06-04-2014, 08:30 AM
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Tearik
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I was never satisfied by anything I found about the rebuilds, So I bought brad new OEM ones. Hurt the pocket book a bit since I JUST had to replace the clutch, but the car is running good again. Except I might be leaking about at my test pipes...but thats another matter
Old 06-04-2014, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Tearik
I was never satisfied by anything I found about the rebuilds, So I bought brad new OEM ones. Hurt the pocket book a bit since I JUST had to replace the clutch, but the car is running good again. Except I might be leaking about at my test pipes...but thats another matter
how much work was it to replace them? Never paid much attention. My Ford was about a 7 hour day to get the plenum off and all the vacuum lines labeled etc.. Kind of a pain... I suspect the Z is just as bad - doesn't matter which direction the engine is mounted in, the same hardware has to come off basically on an overhead cam engine.
Old 06-04-2014, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by bjr
how much work was it to replace them? Never paid much attention. My Ford was about a 7 hour day to get the plenum off and all the vacuum lines labeled etc.. Kind of a pain... I suspect the Z is just as bad - doesn't matter which direction the engine is mounted in, the same hardware has to come off basically on an overhead cam engine.
Not hard, very time consuming. Didn't need to label anything really almost all the vacuum lines are really obvious on the Z. I was doing both sides so it was kinda doubly aggravating.
Old 07-18-2014, 07:46 AM
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has anybody used the Ben Arnley seals ive read reviews they dont fit but maybe people dont know you have to drill the valve covers out?
Old 07-19-2014, 11:21 AM
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Heres my thread using the Altima Seals.
https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...ransplant.html
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