craig12895

iTrader: (7)

So I got the P0327 code for knock sensor. I did my reading and found that I should get the knock sensor, the sub-harness, and all of my intake manifold gaskets. So I have all of them and am in the process if replacing the sensor.
I have my upper and lower plenum off which is how many people say to replace the sensor. My issue now is that I don't see how to get to the sensor from here.
This first picture is for reference of what i have removed so far. I can see the baby blue connector through that little porthole in the front of the engine (second pic). But I can't find the other end of it.
Any advice is appreciated.
PS:I read from other people that injectors and fuel rails do not have to be removed to replace this sensor.

craig12895

iTrader: (7)

Picture 2

3hree5ive0ero

iTrader: (95)

Yes, the baby blue connector in the valley is for the knock sensor. The sensor itself is secured by a single bolt, which you must loosen. The other end of that wire harness is a blue connector which goes somewhere around the passenger side of the block by the bellhousing.

When I did this the first time around, I left the intake manifold and the injectors in place so it's possible but not easy. It's much easier if you just take them off, which is only a few more bolts and nuts, and the only extra thing you'd need are gaskets that go between the heads and the intake manifold. It definitely helps if you have long reach tools that can access small areas, but not necessary if you end up taking more things apart.

craig12895

iTrader: (7)

I'm trying not to remove the injectors. The bolt that is holding on the knok sensor, what's the best way to remove it? Through the porthole in the front of the engine?
And as far as the blue connector near the bell housing, is that best to remove from under the car or through the engine bay?

myfirstzcar

Keep going, it's easy. I can't remember if the injectors have to be pulled or not, but a little dielectric grease on the seals will make them easy to re-install.

taywan

iTrader: (53)

Figured there were plenty of info about this already.
It's really easy to replace. I didn't replace gaskets when I did mine and she runs perfectly fine. Of course 1 bolt holding the knock sensor on and one 10mm bolt holding the harness between motor and firewall. I just unbolted the 10 mm holding the harness on and relocated it for easier future access. I'd def go ahead and replace both KS and sub harness while you're in there-z1 has a nice one. No need to remove rails and Injectors.

3hree5ive0ero

iTrader: (95)

It's not like removing the injectors will hurt anything or a big job. It's just a few bolts and it pops out. You don't need to replace the o-rings.

I went through the back to reach the bolt.

Blue connect is easier to access from the bottom.

craig12895

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the help. My knock sensor and harness should come in tomorrow so I will tackle the rest of the project then

Landon_G03z

The injectors don't have to be removed. You do have to remove that lower runner though, which can be done while the injectors are still in it. You just have to be careful not to crimp any of your fuel lines.

craig12895

iTrader: (7)

Well to my surprise, the manifold gasket set I ordered from OreillyAuto for this job came with the gaskets for the lower runner that hold the injectors. So I just went ahead and took the lower runner off and I am very happy i did so because the knock sensor is super easy to get to now.
Thanks for the help z-masters

craig12895

iTrader: (7)

Well I changed out my knock sensor today and got everything finished up and back together.
While I was there I changed my spark plugs as well as valve covers and gaskets.
now that everything is back together my knock sensor code is now gone which is awesome. But now I have to go back and check my spark plugs and coils again because now i have a P0300 misfire code... It can't ever go right the first time

myfirstzcar

Did you take extra care with the lower gaskets? Did you torque everything to spec?
You may have swapped 2 of the coil wires, I forget which ones now but it's easy to do.

taywan

iTrader: (53)

It's the driver side 2 rears close to firewall

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

yep, 4 and 6.

Check FSM for wire colors (should be grey and grey with red stripe)

craig12895

iTrader: (7)

Yea I was pretty careful with the gasket but my guess is that it rolled a little. Shouldn't be hard to fix.
And you guys think it's the two on the driver side? What makes you think it's them?

craig12895

iTrader: (7)

I am checking my coils and plugs now. It looks to me like all of my coil wires are correct. On the right side, one of the wires says 2 and another says 6, they are in the correct spot. And on the left side one wire says 1 and another says 5 and they are in the correct spots. So now I guess I just have to check the plug gaps?

EDIT: I was just about to pull out the coils and #3 was not plugged in all the way. Stupid mistake but I'm glad I think I found it

myfirstzcar

Looks like you got it.

craig12895

iTrader: (7)

Yea I thought that.
Then I put the whole thing back together and my misfire issue is now fixed as well as my valve cover leaking issue.
HOWEVER... The main reason I did all of this was to fix the knock sensor code, which came back after a minute of driving. I haven't checked the code yet (I am in a few minutes) but I assume it's the same code for the knock sensor

EDIT: I just ran the codes, I now have 3 new ABS codes. C1131-Electric Throttle Control Abnormal C1115-Abnormal Signal C1143-Steering Angle Sensor Circuit. Since these 3 codes didn't come up before I am not sure where to start. From reading it sounds like a good place would be to start with cleaning my throttle body

myfirstzcar

Cleaning the throttle body won't help anything unless it's very dirty.....I mean caked with crud.
Look around for anything else that you may have unhooked or broken.

craig12895

iTrader: (7)

Well it's not caked with crud. I could've visually see anything that was unplugged or not hooked up. I do this thing where when I work on something I cover each part I touched in blue painters tape and I don't see any tape in the engine bay.
The knock sensor code originaly showed up the same day that I installed headers and got an uprev tuner so my next attack is going to be unmarrying the tuner from my car and seeing of the code goes away