Car Won't start
11-28-2014, 05:57 PM
#21
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There's no check engine light so can't pull any codes. It runs as if it's got a fueling issue but I'm not sure, no indications. No mods, car is stock. Just got it for cheap because of blown head gasket due to lack of maintenance I'm guessing. It smoked and had oil mixed in coolant. It runs like its missing and only starts with my foot down almost fully on the pedal, and when it does start if I let off the pedal it just dies
It also smells real strong of gas after I start it and smokes a bit. The smoke is dark
It also smells real strong of gas after I start it and smokes a bit. The smoke is dark
Last edited by DontknowZ's; 11-28-2014 at 06:05 PM.
11-29-2014, 06:17 AM
#22
Did you do the ecu reset? It probably my won't help, but YA never know. Plus it will clear any saved codes so if you can get it to throw one you'll know which one it is. May as well do the throttle/accelerator relearns too.
http://www.technosquareinc.com/350reset.htm
Black smoke indicates a rich condition. The black smoke actually IS incompletely burned fuel. There's so many things I can think of that could cause that and we have very little information to rule them out. Bad 02 sensors could cause this. It could be an issue with spark plugs, coils, or other ignition system component. It could also be injectors, fuel pressure regulator, or other fuel system component. Intake component malfunction might too (ie: throttle body, mass air flow sensor, ect).
How long are you trying to run it? Run it for a few minutes and drive it around the block or something if possible. Try to make it throw a Code.
http://www.technosquareinc.com/350reset.htm
Black smoke indicates a rich condition. The black smoke actually IS incompletely burned fuel. There's so many things I can think of that could cause that and we have very little information to rule them out. Bad 02 sensors could cause this. It could be an issue with spark plugs, coils, or other ignition system component. It could also be injectors, fuel pressure regulator, or other fuel system component. Intake component malfunction might too (ie: throttle body, mass air flow sensor, ect).
How long are you trying to run it? Run it for a few minutes and drive it around the block or something if possible. Try to make it throw a Code.
11-29-2014, 06:45 AM
#23
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Did you do the ecu reset? It probably my won't help, but YA never know. Plus it will clear any saved codes so if you can get it to throw one you'll know which one it is. May as well do the throttle/accelerator relearns too.
http://www.technosquareinc.com/350reset.htm
Black smoke indicates a rich condition. The black smoke actually IS incompletely burned fuel. There's so many things I can think of that could cause that and we have very little information to rule them out. Bad 02 sensors could cause this. It could be an issue with spark plugs, coils, or other ignition system component. It could also be injectors, fuel pressure regulator, or other fuel system component. Intake component malfunction might too (ie: throttle body, mass air flow sensor, ect).
How long are you trying to run it? Run it for a few minutes and drive it around the block or something if possible. Try to make it throw a Code.
http://www.technosquareinc.com/350reset.htm
Black smoke indicates a rich condition. The black smoke actually IS incompletely burned fuel. There's so many things I can think of that could cause that and we have very little information to rule them out. Bad 02 sensors could cause this. It could be an issue with spark plugs, coils, or other ignition system component. It could also be injectors, fuel pressure regulator, or other fuel system component. Intake component malfunction might too (ie: throttle body, mass air flow sensor, ect).
How long are you trying to run it? Run it for a few minutes and drive it around the block or something if possible. Try to make it throw a Code.
11-29-2014, 07:59 AM
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11-29-2014, 08:25 AM
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11-29-2014, 08:46 AM
#29
Have you looked at the plugs themselves? Personally I would replace them if you haven't. water in the cylinders causes many problems. Not the least of which is detonation. This can wear out the electrode and expand the plug gap. A crack in the porcelain of the plug can take out coils and then the ecu.
How many miles does your z have?
How many miles does your z have?
11-29-2014, 08:47 AM
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Have you looked at the plugs themselves? Personally I would replace them if you haven't. water in the cylinders causes many problems. Not the least of which is detonation. This can wear out the electrode and expand the plug gap. A crack in the porcelain of the plug can take out coils and then the ecu.
How many miles does your z have?
How many miles does your z have?
Also, do you thing a cam position sensor could be the reason it doesn't start?
11-29-2014, 09:15 AM
#31
Sorry I didn't see the cam sensor part. Yes that can cause a car not to start. I thought I mentioned cam and crank position sensors earlier but maybe not. I'm assuming it ran smoother before the head gasket change?
Also I would still check the plugs unless you have already. It might not take much to damage them.
I wrote this earlier but doesn't look like it posted:
Check vac leaks
Check rubber lines to fuel pressure regulator. If there's fuel in them the regulator is bad.
Is there a rotten egg smell? That's a bad catalytic converter symptom.
It would be better if we could narrow it down to which cylinder(s) is/are misfiring. Unplug a coil and start the car. If it doesn't start or stumbles worse, plug that back in and try another. Repeat.
Sorry about some of my messed up posts. I'm on my phone and autocorrect badly sabotages me.
Also I would still check the plugs unless you have already. It might not take much to damage them.
I wrote this earlier but doesn't look like it posted:
Check vac leaks
Check rubber lines to fuel pressure regulator. If there's fuel in them the regulator is bad.
Is there a rotten egg smell? That's a bad catalytic converter symptom.
It would be better if we could narrow it down to which cylinder(s) is/are misfiring. Unplug a coil and start the car. If it doesn't start or stumbles worse, plug that back in and try another. Repeat.
Sorry about some of my messed up posts. I'm on my phone and autocorrect badly sabotages me.
Last edited by hulkout; 11-29-2014 at 01:40 PM.
11-29-2014, 02:54 PM
#32
Also, do the same thing with the injectors as I described earlier with the coils.
Once you've done that stuff let me know. My next guesses are not pretty...
Next step for me would be checking timing with a timing light.
Then a compression test.
Once you've done that stuff let me know. My next guesses are not pretty...
Next step for me would be checking timing with a timing light.
Then a compression test.
11-29-2014, 04:20 PM
#33
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After checking everything and getting sensors, still the same.
Did a compression test, the passenger side cylinders are all good and the driver side cylinders have Nothing.
I'm guessing that means valves Need to be changed?
Last edited by DontknowZ's; 11-30-2014 at 12:50 AM.
11-29-2014, 05:07 PM
#34
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would it be straight forward to change the valves? Or would getting a used right cylinder head a better option. And could I reuse the head bolts, head gaskets and others after the tear down? Just figured I could because the temp never got hot
Last edited by DontknowZ's; 11-30-2014 at 01:00 AM.
11-30-2014, 05:31 AM
#35
So the compression in the drivers side bank is all 0? That can only be bad news.
I think I would start by taking off that valve cover, turning the crank, and watching cam and valve movement if that's the case. Maybe a cam broke or something. The fact that that entire bank reads ZERO is bad bad news.
As far as repair goes, that head has to come off and see what kinda damage the head, block, Pistons and valves have all suffered before anything.
What was the compression psi In the other bank? Maybe it's just time to rebuild the whole engine?
The gaskets COULD be reused I suppose. But the bolts are really only supposed to be a one time use thing. Once they're torqued down once and removed it is suggested that they be replaced due to "stretch". I'm sure it's been done, but you wouldn't want head lift right away after all that work anyway, would you?
I think I would start by taking off that valve cover, turning the crank, and watching cam and valve movement if that's the case. Maybe a cam broke or something. The fact that that entire bank reads ZERO is bad bad news.
As far as repair goes, that head has to come off and see what kinda damage the head, block, Pistons and valves have all suffered before anything.
What was the compression psi In the other bank? Maybe it's just time to rebuild the whole engine?
The gaskets COULD be reused I suppose. But the bolts are really only supposed to be a one time use thing. Once they're torqued down once and removed it is suggested that they be replaced due to "stretch". I'm sure it's been done, but you wouldn't want head lift right away after all that work anyway, would you?
Last edited by hulkout; 11-30-2014 at 08:43 AM.
11-30-2014, 11:46 AM
#36
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So the compression in the drivers side bank is all 0? That can only be bad news.
I think I would start by taking off that valve cover, turning the crank, and watching cam and valve movement if that's the case. Maybe a cam broke or something. The fact that that entire bank reads ZERO is bad bad news.
As far as repair goes, that head has to come off and see what kinda damage the head, block, Pistons and valves have all suffered before anything.
What was the compression psi In the other bank? Maybe it's just time to rebuild the whole engine?
The gaskets COULD be reused I suppose. But the bolts are really only supposed to be a one time use thing. Once they're torqued down once and removed it is suggested that they be replaced due to "stretch". I'm sure it's been done, but you wouldn't want head lift right away after all that work anyway, would you?
I think I would start by taking off that valve cover, turning the crank, and watching cam and valve movement if that's the case. Maybe a cam broke or something. The fact that that entire bank reads ZERO is bad bad news.
As far as repair goes, that head has to come off and see what kinda damage the head, block, Pistons and valves have all suffered before anything.
What was the compression psi In the other bank? Maybe it's just time to rebuild the whole engine?
The gaskets COULD be reused I suppose. But the bolts are really only supposed to be a one time use thing. Once they're torqued down once and removed it is suggested that they be replaced due to "stretch". I'm sure it's been done, but you wouldn't want head lift right away after all that work anyway, would you?
11-30-2014, 11:59 AM
#37
Standard comp psi is 185 psi.
The minimum is 142 psi.
Diffetential limit between cylinders is 14 psi.
This engine needs service or replacement.
Page EM-80 in the manual describes the conditions under which head bolts should be changed. This engine doesn't call for new bolts every time they are removed like most do and like I thought it did.
The minimum is 142 psi.
Diffetential limit between cylinders is 14 psi.
This engine needs service or replacement.
Page EM-80 in the manual describes the conditions under which head bolts should be changed. This engine doesn't call for new bolts every time they are removed like most do and like I thought it did.
Last edited by hulkout; 11-30-2014 at 12:48 PM.
11-30-2014, 02:28 PM
#38
Standard comp psi is 185 psi.
The minimum is 142 psi.
Diffetential limit between cylinders is 14 psi.
This engine needs service or replacement.
Page EM-80 in the manual describes the conditions under which head bolts should be changed. This engine doesn't call for new bolts every time they are removed like most do and like I thought it did.
The minimum is 142 psi.
Diffetential limit between cylinders is 14 psi.
This engine needs service or replacement.
Page EM-80 in the manual describes the conditions under which head bolts should be changed. This engine doesn't call for new bolts every time they are removed like most do and like I thought it did.
12-01-2014, 08:32 AM
#39
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Another thought is when I had the head upside down to clean it two of the lifters fell out and I could have mixed them up. Could that cause it?
Something that would help me understand what happened is if the vq35 is an interference or non-interference engine?? I'm guessing it's non?
Last edited by DontknowZ's; 12-01-2014 at 08:48 AM.
12-01-2014, 08:40 AM
#40
Another thought is when I had the head upside down to clean it two of the lifters fell out and I could have mixed them up. Could that cause it?
Just to be clear all 3 cylinders in that bank have ZERO psi compression?
Let me know what you find. And if there's destruction (and I sincerely hope there's not) Take good pics.
