Chromatic

iTrader: (4)

Car: 2008 350Z

I just had a JWT HD Clutch package, Zspeed CSC Slave, Wilwood HD Master, OEM Flywheel, with all Stainless steel braided lines installed to fix some issues.

Everything is great.

Except the pedal with the new JWT clutch and HD master/slaves engages almost near the top of the pedal travel. Further up than it even did from the factory stock on this 2008 350Z.

I really would like to lower it any safe amount closer to the floor for engagement.

After all these expensive parts I don't want to jeopardize damaging the Master/Slave and so on.

So I snapped two pictures of the adjustment rod as it is right now to see if you guys think I have room to safely turn it counterclockwise to lower the engagement/pedal closer to the floor.






I've read that adjusting this (which I've done before on the old clutch) (but the Nissan mechanic adjusted this one with this new install) -- Can cause premature master/slave cylinder failure.

Room to turn there?

The pedal is VERY stiff with the JWT HD clutch package (I like it).. and returns up to the top very strong. But it literally engages at the very end of letting the clutch pedal out (maybe 1" or so from the top).

I thought new clutches were supposed to be really close to the floor if anything,.. so this is why I'm also asking your opinions before I adjust that rod any.

Thanks for any advice and if you need more information just let me know.

Thanks,

BipJip

Your clutch should engage at the top of the pedal. AlsoThe pedal should have a inch or two of play before engagement. I have the south bend quiet clutch and want to do the wildwood master cylinder with the Cz csc. I still get pedal drop every once in a while but not as bad as it was. Mostly when I release the clutch at higher Rpms. Hope this helps.

Chromatic

iTrader: (4)

Having a higher engagement point in general is ok with me.. But this engagement point is just silly high. It's right when you take your foot off the clutch pedal nearly. I remember well the engagement point of the factory clutch before it was adjusted and it was very high as well.. but not this high

I'm just curious for those familiar with this setup if there is a little room to move it without causing any extra wear/long term damage to all the parts I just put in the car -- Or if I'm basically stuck with where it is?

I definitely won't be aggressive with the movement / adjustment of the rod.. just a little bit closer to the floor would be quite welcome to me.. But I am super cautious because of how much money and time went into this project (it was a headache ).

I've been told that as long as the clevis pin has the ability to move freely the adjustment is ok on the system. (As we can't , unfortunately, just use the sound of the throwout bearing as a guide of good or bad adjustment).

Thanks,

ZSpeedPerformance

iTrader: (71)

That looks adjusted much to high just from reference off all the ones i have done. You need to thread the rod into the clevis more (turn the rod counter clockwise) This will not cause ANY issues but having it the other way (too tight) can def kill the clutch quickly.

Heres what to do, Thread the rod into the clevis and keep checking/pushing the pedal down and let it return to the top, When the pedal stops popping up all the way go back and tighten just until it returns fully. Then youre set and its as loose and you can make it while still keeping the pedal returning fully.

Chromatic

iTrader: (4)

Thanks, I appreciate this.

I spent a couple hours adjusting over and over shortening the pedal travel.. Then realized it just doesn't make a difference with the stock pedal.. as regardless of how much you change the pedal travel (Rod further in the clevis) the friction zone is still binary (nearly on/off) with it's full bite ).

Which doesn't really achieve the goal I was after.

Also while I was adjusting I was checking pedal return.. and the lower I got it .. The pedal would return but then have a "sticking" point (clevis was still neutral/moving) where it needed a touch to pop back up to the cruise stop.

I did "fix" this by bringing/threading this switch downward (toward the floorboard/pedal).

While this is a worthwhile adjustment for "free" .. It only accomplishes making the pedal not come back up as high. Which sounds like what we want,.. but in reality I want a lower engagement point.. but more than that I longer friction edge/zone during the pedal travel. If that makes sense.. it's hard to put into words but I think you know what I mean.

After some research and remembering a conversation I had a year ago With Ryan.. I discovered that the ultimate "fix" for someone who isn't happy with the high , quite short bite, of the stock pedal (regardless of clutch/mc/sc) -- Was to replace the whole pedal assembly.

I'm sure you know where I'm going with this. The RJM pedal, now version 3.3 , is the one I ordered with Clevis that fits the Wilwood HD Master threads.

So that should arrive soon and judging by the response from people who have them,.. it should make a very noticeable difference with this "issue" if you will.

ZSpeedPerformance

iTrader: (71)

Did you buy the .700" master or the .625" Wilwood kit? With the JWT clutch we normally recommend going with the smaller .625" master rather than the stock size .700" just for this reason. With the smaller master it calms down the clutch, Lowers the engagement point slightly and makes that clutch much smoother and less harsh to drive.