Ultra6

Hey guys, my battery has a parasite somewhere and I'm assuming it's a ****ed up fuse. I've read guides on how to deduce which fuse may be causing the issue involving an extensive process of using a multimeter and pulling every single fuse until I figure out which fuse is causing the issue.

Fuses are fairly cheap however and I'd rather spend $60 replacing them all rather than monkeying around with fuses for a whole day.

I'm a bit uninformed in regards to electrical though beyond changing a GFCI or wiring up a lamp in a house. Would someone be able to weigh in on this and tell me if my thinking is correct? All fuses go out eventually anyway, if it is a fuse, would a more broad spectrum fix like this take care of my problem?

Alternator works, battery is fine, car will start after I boost it as long as I drive it everyday. If I let it sit for 36 hours or so, the lights come on etc and it turns over, but it just runs out of enough juice to full fire up.

Thanks so much for your time.


***EDIT*** Please check my reply before responding to this query. I have more information below.

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

Actually, automotive fuses are a failsafe design that shouldn't need replacing unless there is something amiss with the circuit its protecting. Replacing all of them makes no sense, just as replacing all the wiring harnesses periodically would be a costly and difficult proposition. If you have a battery drain somewhere, you simply need to track it down and correct it. It takes time, but it's time better spent than trying to replace every fuse in the IPDM.

Ultra6

Ok so I went out and bought a multimeter. It's a $20 CE one, but it works right?

Jumped the car and drove it around the city/on the highway. Came back home, turned it off, and it fired right back up no problem.

disconnected the negative from the battery and started my fuse testing. With everything off the meter set at 10A was readying 0.20. Now if my math is correct, that is 200 mA .... that seems way too high, so I started pulling fuses. No matter what fuse I pulled, the draw remained at 0.20.

Puzzled, I set the meter to Voltage and checked my battery; 12.47v... hmm..
Fired the car up, 14.xx volts. Ok so the alternator is working. Turned on AC, remained at 14.xx volts.

Only thing is now, after pulling the fuses and putting them back in one at a time, my ****ing SES light is on now.

TL;DR: Battery is good, Alternator is good, 0.20A draw, SES light on now for the first time since I've owned the car in over 2 years.

Any ideas guys?

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

First idea- get the codes read and get back to us...

dcains

iTrader: (15)

A fully charged battery should be a bit over 12.7v, and you may also want to get it load tested.