Problem with newly purchased 2007...
09-15-2015, 02:52 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Problem with newly purchased 2007...
So I just recently bought a 2007 AT Touring convertible. Love everything about her except one little problem I can't figure out. Runs great at all RPMs except when accelerating from a stop. When stopped and idling it will sputter and occasionally stall if I don't give it enough throttle when I begin to accelerate...almost like starting from 2nd gear in a MT. If I give it a good dose of throttle it seems to 'jump past' the trouble spot and runs fine. Never seems to have a problem once moving, just accelerating from a stop at idle. I took it to a trusted repair shop and they said they didn't see anything wrong...I had them change all the cam and crank position sensors but that didn't fix the problem. They said that there were no codes .... I do know that the guy I bought the car from said it sat for a good bit while he was working on it...I've run 3 tanks of premium gas with fuel system cleaner. My mechanic is at a loss, he said try 2 more tanks of gas with techron cleaner and see what happens. He said if that didn't help he'd clean the throttle body for free...One more odd symptom...It usually runs fine when starting up cold in the morning...once it warms to normal running temps it starts up with this issue...I'm stumped...
Help and thanks!!!
Help and thanks!!!
09-15-2015, 03:04 PM
#2
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Throttle body leaning should be 1st thing you do when an issue like this occurs.
A weak battery could also contribute. I'd say no codes, clean t-body and go from there.
Let us know.
A weak battery could also contribute. I'd say no codes, clean t-body and go from there.
Let us know.
09-16-2015, 10:01 AM
#5
New Member
If you're not getting codes on your sensors, then changing them is a waste of money. You can bench test the sensors using a live scan code reader, a DVM or a scope. You're spending money you don't need to spend. You also failed to mention how many miles you have on your car (which could indicate it's time for new spark plugs, MAF sensor cleaning, new PCV, a fuel pressure test, etc. etc.). Also, things as simple as new air filters (assuming yours are dirty) could make a difference.
Last edited by zakmartin; 09-16-2015 at 10:02 AM.
The following users liked this post:
zakmartin (09-17-2015)
Trending Topics
09-16-2015, 12:00 PM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Laredo
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
A good way of going about it is removing it dont use any type of tool to lodge in the butterfly plates. I personally use Berrymans B-12 have used it for years and safe enough to use on maf sensors, with positive results. Also if your going to replace it anyway, might as well give it a shot. If you can install an air inake you can remove a TB
09-17-2015, 03:04 PM
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Car has 44,000 miles...I changed the spark plugs yesterday as well as cleaned the throttle bodies since I removed them to make changing plugs easier. Hopefully I did it right, I just removed the four allen screws and pulled them off carefully. Sprayed TB cleaner, wiped and reinstalled. They were actually very clean already. I also already replaced air filters...I did not reset ECU...is that necessary after plug change? I've read both. Can someone explain how to clean MAF? Is it easy?
Thanks, I'm about to give up and take her to the dealer...
Thanks, I'm about to give up and take her to the dealer...
09-17-2015, 04:05 PM
#10
New Member
09-17-2015, 04:24 PM
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
Holy crap! I reset the ecu tonight by disconnecting the battery for about an hour then stomped the brake like 5 times before reconnecting....I can't believe it but the problem appears to be gone. I'll reassess tomorrow but right now I'm elated!
09-17-2015, 04:44 PM
#12
New Member
Given your challenges with regard to diagnosis and your apparent tendency to dive right in before checking how deep the water is first, I think this is your best bet. You'll likely save money in the long run.
And please, take this advice knowing it's from someone who's been wrenching for 30 years and worked in a garage where people would bring in cars with a bunch of new sensors because they wanted to save money and do it the shade tree mechanic way after reading a Chilton's Guide. So many times, the problem would turn out to be a disconnected vacuum line or a bad ground causing the issue. $500 bucks spent on new parts for a 10-minute $30 fix that didn't require any.
I have the benefit of a fully stocked garage, including $10K in diagnostic equipment, which honestly isn't a lot for a serious wrencher. That being said, you should only seek advice after you've taken the time to organize your thoughts, fully and concisely explain the issue you're having, the condition of the vehicle (i.e., mods, miles, maintenance) and everything else you can think of (i.e., Did you drive over a big pot hole today? Did you buy the car used from someone you'd never met before without getting the car checked first by a certified mechanic?)
I get irritated with the bullcrap advice on this forum (mostly from well-intentioned noobs) when they don't have a full understanding of what your car is doing and what you've done to your car that could make it happen. People make assumptions about what's wrong with a car, usually without any practical knowledge of automotive diagnostic theory or the ramifications of screwing up what they always consider, "a simple fix, brah." Stick with the advice from people who have some tenure as board members around here give you. You'll notice that it's generally pretty consistent. They've participated a lot more on these forums than someone with, oh, say 18 posts to their credit.
It's been my observation that people who can least afford a professional repair bill keep swapping out every part someone mentions in a thread because they WANT to believe that there's a simple solution to everything. Someone will always say, "Yeah, my gf's car was doing that and I replaced the CPS and now it's like running gr8. Change the CPS, brah." These people have NO F-ING IDEA what is wrong with your car unless they're sitting in it with a scan tool or a scope, with their eyes, ears and nose open and a bit of training to keep things moving along.
Understand, I'm not trying to tell you that there's no benefit to this forum, but you've already replaced more perfectly good parts than you needed to and with the money you wasted, you'd probably have a working car by now if you sent it to a shop. I think your submission that taking your car to a pro might be your best course of action now is well worth considering.
And please, take this advice knowing it's from someone who's been wrenching for 30 years and worked in a garage where people would bring in cars with a bunch of new sensors because they wanted to save money and do it the shade tree mechanic way after reading a Chilton's Guide. So many times, the problem would turn out to be a disconnected vacuum line or a bad ground causing the issue. $500 bucks spent on new parts for a 10-minute $30 fix that didn't require any.
I have the benefit of a fully stocked garage, including $10K in diagnostic equipment, which honestly isn't a lot for a serious wrencher. That being said, you should only seek advice after you've taken the time to organize your thoughts, fully and concisely explain the issue you're having, the condition of the vehicle (i.e., mods, miles, maintenance) and everything else you can think of (i.e., Did you drive over a big pot hole today? Did you buy the car used from someone you'd never met before without getting the car checked first by a certified mechanic?)
I get irritated with the bullcrap advice on this forum (mostly from well-intentioned noobs) when they don't have a full understanding of what your car is doing and what you've done to your car that could make it happen. People make assumptions about what's wrong with a car, usually without any practical knowledge of automotive diagnostic theory or the ramifications of screwing up what they always consider, "a simple fix, brah." Stick with the advice from people who have some tenure as board members around here give you. You'll notice that it's generally pretty consistent. They've participated a lot more on these forums than someone with, oh, say 18 posts to their credit.
It's been my observation that people who can least afford a professional repair bill keep swapping out every part someone mentions in a thread because they WANT to believe that there's a simple solution to everything. Someone will always say, "Yeah, my gf's car was doing that and I replaced the CPS and now it's like running gr8. Change the CPS, brah." These people have NO F-ING IDEA what is wrong with your car unless they're sitting in it with a scan tool or a scope, with their eyes, ears and nose open and a bit of training to keep things moving along.
Understand, I'm not trying to tell you that there's no benefit to this forum, but you've already replaced more perfectly good parts than you needed to and with the money you wasted, you'd probably have a working car by now if you sent it to a shop. I think your submission that taking your car to a pro might be your best course of action now is well worth considering.
Last edited by zakmartin; 09-17-2015 at 04:47 PM.
09-17-2015, 04:46 PM
#13
New Member
Keep your fingers crossed. For what it's worth I stand by my previous post.
09-17-2015, 04:53 PM
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
02-08-2017, 09:07 AM
#18
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: London
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi all, just purchased an 07 350z GT. Exact same issue... 
has anyone else tried all of the above with some success? Battery is currently disconnected and awaiting my alarm for an hours time to see if it cures it. Thanks in advance
has anyone else tried all of the above with some success? Battery is currently disconnected and awaiting my alarm for an hours time to see if it cures it. Thanks in advance
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post