go1f17

My 2007 350z VQ35HR just acted weird recently. After driving for an hour it showed the VDC off, slip lights on my dashboard, which I didn't turn them off for sure. Then I tried to drive back home but after driving for another 30-40 minutes, the car began to act more weird. The rpm gauge just dropped to zero with the hesitation of throttle. I decided to turn my car off and it wasn't able to turn on again at all (VDC off, slip, abs light shown on dashboard after the key is in ignition position) I finally took the car to the garage and he said that the car was fine after reset the immobilizer (caused I've tried to start the car several times that day after disconnecting the battery) and he suggested me to drive and see if this's going up once again. I've faced this situation before but that time after battery disconnected I was able to start up the car. Can you figure this out for me?

Ps. My brake fluid is at the maximum level and all of my brake pads had been replaced for a few months, I just had the rear wheel bearing replacement for a month until the first time of this problem occured

I've tried the ecu reset, battery disconnected and code checked which thrown up only Engine u1001 which I believe it caused by HKS SLD and yes, I've tried searching for this answer for months but still no luck!!

I noticed that this problem occured when I was driving on not-so-smooth surface road, bumpy

Thanks for the help in advance

zakmartin

That makes me think you have a loose connection or a short somewhere. Those are not fun to trace. You may want to run your car on jack stands and jiggle the wire harnesses until (hopefully) you can get the problem to replicate.

Check the FSM's troubleshooting guides to give you an idea which module(s) would cause a problem like this and go from there. If your mechanic was able to temporarily fix the problem by resetting the NATS, then you might want to start with that.

Finally, don't be surprised if its a circuit board issue instead of a wiring issue. A bad solder connection can make the car do crazy thing if it's being jostled around.

Whatever you do, if the problem shows up again while you're driving, do NOT reset the trouble code(s). Take the car to a dealership and have them hook it to a CONSULT tool to see if they can find a manufacturer specific DTC that won't show up on an aftermarket code reader. That could potentially save you a ton of time with the diagnostic.

Spike100

I like Zak’s advice:
I had an instance when the Nissan dealership’s CONSULT read a different code that was in fact the problem.