rancor

So I have an odd problem with the key fob/central locking. After some recently cool nights (40s) the key fob refused to work in the morning. But once the car was turned on, not even started the key fob worked. The key fob would then continue to work normally throughout the day. Both of my key fobs produce the same issue so it's probably the car causing the problem.

This happened early this year when I got the car out of storage and once the weather warmed I never had the problem. Then in the last few days it shows up again. It seems to be related to the cooler weather. The first year I had the car I drove it through the winter and never had any issues.

Has anyone had this happen to them before? I'm thinking this is a poor connection or component somewhere with the cold weather aggravating the issue.

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

While I can't say I've ever experienced an electrical problem like this with my Z, it's usually power-related, or a NATS programming issue. How old is the battery in your Z? Have you had it tested? Using a code reader like UpRev's Cipher will also allow you to read any BCM codes that might be related to the failure.

rancor

The battery is 2 years old and was kept inside and charged last winter. I will check the voltage next time it happens. I do have a bluetooth reader, no codes shown but i'm not sure it can read bcm codes. It might be time to just buy a cable and Cipher.

jhc

I imagine both of your fobs and batteries are the same age. Check the voltage. If it's 3V or less, replace. Might save you some headaches.

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

My bet Is on the batteries in your remote.

rancor

Nope the batteries in the remotes are about a year old. The one I use died last year so I replaced both of them.

Turns out the 2 year 1 month old battery is dead it showed a tiny bit over 12(no multimeter with me) when I went to start it. And after a ~15min drive it was only up to 12.528V. Stuck the battery charger on it and everything is working again. At least it has a 3 year warranty and still have the receipt.

On a side note do you think the car is purposely shutting off as much as it can to save power when the battery is going flat?

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

A more likely explanation is the battery is discharging fast enough that not all your Z's internal systems can function adequately. But why are you waiting to replace that battery? A load test will likely show it isn't up to snuff, and a replacement (even pro-rated) is better than getting stranded somewhere when it packs it in completely. BTW- what brand and model battery is it? You might help other Z33 owners from suffering the same fate.

rancor

I will be trying to get it replaced tomorrow just not worth the time tonight. Its an AutoCraft Gold (Advance Auto Parts) should be the same as all the other johnson controls batteries.

jhc

Well, cr@p, and thanks for that. I just put one of those in my dad's car.
Good luck, buddy!

rancor

Thanks they better honor the warranty. Im guessing it was just a bad example don't worry about it.

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

Yeah usually Johnson control batteries are reliable and long lasting.

I had one in my jeep from Wal-Mart that was in it from 08 till the guy I sold it too replaced it last year. 7 years in a crappie Massachusetts climate is pretty good. Sometimes it would sit for months at a time and still start right up.

rancor

The battery replacement didn't help. This morning the voltage was at 12.7 and the car still wouldn't respond to ether fobs. No codes using the Bluetooth reader and torque app. I will get Cipher next unless I find something in the FSM.