Cheyanne Frazee

I was driving to work one day and I was literally almost to work when all of the sudden I would push the gas and it wouldn't Rev, or go. So I let it roll into the nearest parking lot and turned off my car. I tried to turn it back on but it sounded like it was dead. So I jumped start it and it starts acting for fine. Not even a minute later and it start doing it again. So I pull into my works parking lot and put it in parked and hit the gas. It would Rev in park but not in drive, then wouldn't turn back on if I turned off the car. So I put a new battery on it and a new alternator and it STILL is acting like it is dead. I checked the fuses and they are all good. Has this ever happened to anyone else or does anyone have any diagnosis?

dcains

iTrader: (15)

Do you know if your alternator is charging properly?

Cheyanne Frazee

yes it's charging properly.

dcains

iTrader: (15)

Have you had it tested, or are you just saying that because it's been replaced? Are the belts tight? Are the battery terminal connections clean and tight? What reading are you getting on the dash voltage gauge? This is all basic troubleshooting stuff you need to run through.

zakmartin

Stop throwing parts on your car until you test them first. I'd start by testing all the ground points.

Based on the issue with the gas pedal, you might want to test the resistance measurements on your accelerator pedal position sensor with a halfway-decent DMM or with a live data scanner hooked into the OBDII port. If the numbers are off, replace the bad part.

Edit:

Here's a link to the replacement procedure. Be sure to test the part first. If this is outside your unique skillset, have a mechanic do it for you. Note the link to the re-learn procedure in the FSM.

Spike100

You likely wasted some $$’s installing parts you might not have needed (i.e., the battery and alternator you replaced), but you now have new parts. But then again, new electrical parts can be damaged or even ruined by power/wiring problems elsewhere, but connected.

So as Zak wisely states: “Stop throwing parts on your car until you test them first. I would start by testing all the ground points.”

It can be difficult locating a “parasitic leak,” but your problem description points to a different source. Your symptoms might indicate a faulty component (and obviously not your battery or alternator) that you can track down with professional testing equipment.

Let us know when you find the cause of your problem.

mxrcdude

Take your old alternator to an alternator shop to get it tested. Probably still fine and it's a free test.

Did your lights dim/die? Was it cutting out at high RPM before it died? I had what I thought was a bad alternator (was just a loose belt), but the battery wasn't charging. I would make it a certain distance and the car would start sputtering at the top end before finally dying as the battery stopped having enough juice to run the heater, defrost, lights, and other electrical components. Tightened the belt up and cleaned my grounds up and everything was fine.

When I was taking my car to get caged and didn't have the cluster or anything else installed, the car went into super limp mode. Pretty much would idle in gear as I limped down the road at 10mph. If I pushed the clutch in or put it in neutral, it would rev freely. I knew what the issue was in my case, but it definitely wasn't related to the alternator or battery.

zakmartin

I have a suspicion we won't be hearing from the OP again. Generally, if a new user doesn't check in on their own thread after 2 weeks, they're just another one-hit wonder.

travlee

iTrader: (8)

last login the same day of the post... he is prob off getting bad advice from facebook

bitzie

Hello,

My 2004 roadster does that as well but only in the winter months. Sometimes its the windows, the windows stay down a half in when opening the doors and it will automatically lift once the door is closed to fit in the groove. in colder weather sometimes this doesn't work and it keeps trying over and over and killed my battery...SO I try to be sure to close them manually once I am out of the car..

But I did perform this test I found and it worked in detecting other possible drainage.

One day to test that I found out that works is:

1. Trick the door switches into thinking that the doors are still closed. This will let the BCM power down with the key off and still allow you to have access to any fuse panels or switches in the car.

2. With your DVOM set to Amps DC, you need to disconnect the Neg. batt. clamp and put the DVOM in line. One lead on the batt. clamp and the other lead on the Neg. post.

3. Judging by the time it takes your battery to die , you have about 150 to 200 milliamp draw. 20 milliamps or 0.02 Amps is considered acceptable. Initially you may have 400 or 500 milliamps worth of draw but that is due to the fact that some control units are on timers and stay powered up for a specified amount of time. The Nissan Quest takes almost 30 Min. to power down. So watch the multimeter until the numbers quit changing. Your probably gonna be around 0.2 Amps or 200 milliamps.

4. Now you can start pulling fuses, one at a time, until the number drops to almost zero. When you find the fuse, figure out what is on that circuit and start disconnecting components one at a time. So narrow down the part in the circuit that is causing the draw. It may be as simple as a floorboard light or trunk light.

5. Replace part

6. Drink beer to celebrate

In the past I have seen seat covers hold down auto seat switches and cause a draw. I have seen seat switches themselves fail internally and cause a draw even though the switch works fine. Auto seats stay powered up all the time but usually don't cause a draw unless in motion. I have also seen radios cause a parasitic draw too. Also, don't forget, while the Multimeter/ DVOM is in line, DO NOT operate anything in the car or turn the keys on. The load will blow the fuse in the meter or burn the meter up if it has no fuse. An in line fuse in one of the test leads is always a good idea. Good luck