Broken Door Pull
#1
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Broken Door Pull
Hey folks.
I've done some research and I'm hoping you can help me confirm what's gone wrong here.
My 350Z's driver door no longer opens from the outside. The inside opens just fine.
From what I've read, I'm assuming it's either a cable or the actual handle mechanism.
I don't think the actual handle component is damaged, but I'm not sure, either.
Is there any way I can easily determine exactly what's wrong? I tried looking for a tutorial (I found a great one for the fateful clicking rear axle issue which I'm also fighting with) but I wasn't able to come up with much.
I've done some research and I'm hoping you can help me confirm what's gone wrong here.
My 350Z's driver door no longer opens from the outside. The inside opens just fine.
From what I've read, I'm assuming it's either a cable or the actual handle mechanism.
I don't think the actual handle component is damaged, but I'm not sure, either.
Is there any way I can easily determine exactly what's wrong? I tried looking for a tutorial (I found a great one for the fateful clicking rear axle issue which I'm also fighting with) but I wasn't able to come up with much.
#2
New Member
Open the door from the inside, take the interior door trim off and inspect the handle mechanism.
#3
350Z/370Z Tech Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
If it's not opening from outside only, suggest taking off the door handle and inspecting. Only two bolts holding it on. Possible that the little metal rod that goes between the actual handle and the actuator has fallen out or if the door handle itself is whonked, you'll see it. Nissan uses CPP* for the connections on our doors.
Here: https://my350z.com/forum/body-interi...placement.html (Taking note that there is correction in the thread but I'll mention it here: It's a 10mm bolt head NOT 11mm as stated in first post of the DIY)
*Cheap Plastic Parts (The metal parts themselves rarely break.)
Here: https://my350z.com/forum/body-interi...placement.html (Taking note that there is correction in the thread but I'll mention it here: It's a 10mm bolt head NOT 11mm as stated in first post of the DIY)
*Cheap Plastic Parts (The metal parts themselves rarely break.)