Unicus

iTrader: (3)

Halfway down the road my clutch started to get strangely soft, like barely laying my foot down would send it 80% of the way down. It still let me engage the clutch and shift for the 5 minutes it took to get back to work. When I stopped moving it went the whole way down, and I now can't engage the clutch at all. It pretty easily falls the entire way to the floor, and doesn't give me any return pressure.

From my research, it looks to be any of the following:
-fluid lines (checked fluid it's fine, checked underneath couldn't find any bleeding
-Master/slave cylinder
-Pivot ball (honestly not too sure what this is, will look a bit more into it)
-Retaining pin somewhere that can snap?

If i'm going to have to drop the transmission for this, I'd like to get everything done at once down there. I have 110k on the car and have been meaning to start renewing parts and putting in quality aftermarket, but money has been tight lately.

So, as it stands, I'm waiting on a check from the Army that they've been piddle****ing around with for quite awhile, and it's for $1k, which i'd like to stay within.

I do NOT want to take it to a shop, I doubt I can afford it, and i'd rather to the work myself. I have a buddy who is a qualified mechanic and has worked on tons of Z's, and has a tranny lift and all the tools at his house.

I also have this pedal sitting around, picked it up on the last group buy. Anything special i need to look for that wouldn't work with it?
http://rjmperformance.com/350z--g35-...G35/p/65861576

I could have sworn someone had a good combo kit for this, I thought it was z1 but I can't find it. Could really use a hand, as I'm in a tight spot and this is my only vehicle.

Thanks!


edit - found the kit, option at the bottom to add the csc elim kit.
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...bo-p-5384.html

Is this a proper choice for me? It's my daily driver, and while I do plan on tracking her eventually, right now I just need to make sure i can reliably geto to work, while still not screwing myself later when I want to upgrade by puttin in oem parts.

travlee

iTrader: (8)

Slave took a dump on ya, i would replace it with the zspeed relocation kit. Doesnt need constant adjustment like the z1 does

Unicus

iTrader: (3)

would i have any problems putting the new clutch pedal on? I'm a little confused about where it says I might need something different with aftermarket parts.

nizmo_0385

iTrader: (5)

Oem lasted 110k miles. Why go aftermarket? Just replace clutch and slave add ss lines bleed and be done.

Unicus

iTrader: (3)

because it's not much more if even cheaper, so why wouldn't i upgrade?

nizmo_0385

iTrader: (5)

Your talking about buying an entirely new clutch pedal. That's alot more plus the kit to delete csc? By all means spend away

MicVelo

I would NOT use OEM slave cylinder as replacement. Same thing will happen.

The two "upgraded" options available are both by Z Speed Performance:

- HD CSC (concentric slave cylinder) - same installation as OEM unit and has been the tried and true upgrade solution for HR/VHR (all 2007+) equipped Zs.

I just installed this (along with a new clutch, both of which I had sitting in my garage for my Nismo's eventual clutch upgrade) on my son's HR and all is good. Along with a new master, car runs great.

Found here: http://www.zspeedperformance.com/ZSp...SC-zsp2006.htm

-------------

- A newer option from them is the ZSP CMAK (clutch movement alteration kit) which essentially externalizes all the hydraulic pieces and uses time honored clutch fork and standard T/O bearing. Think of this as a "backdate" or "conversion" to the set up on a DE engine. I've no personal opinion on this as I've not used but reviews have been encouraging.

http://www.zspeedperformance.com/ZSp...e-ZSP-CMAK.htm

Either way, the curse of the dropped pedal should disappear with these solutions.

nizmo_0385

iTrader: (5)

When i say aftermarket im talking slave delete and pedal replacement not clutch disc.

nizmo_0385

iTrader: (5)

Same thing will happen in 110k miles....

travlee

iTrader: (8)

my oem slave crapped out on me at 39k miles, replaced it with oem and it went out again in about 10k miles, replaced it with the zspeed hd one and never looked back

nizmo_0385

iTrader: (5)

Christ.. welp there goes my argument. Definitely if it were me if go clutch fork route.

travlee

iTrader: (8)

it truly is hit or miss, but why drop the trans twice if you don't have to.

Unicus

iTrader: (3)

I already have the pedal from a last production group buy so i'm gonna put it on, it's not an additional buy.

thanks!

MicVelo

Chris, I believe OP already has an RJM pedal in his possession.

EDIT: Ooops, redudancy alert! Didn't see the above post. My bad....

pyshin

iTrader: (14)

I've had the Z1 CSC Elimination Kit along with a Z1 Street Performance Clutch since April 2016 and I drive my Z daily.. I don't know what this "constant adjustment" is; mine has been fine

https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...it-p-7340.html

travlee

iTrader: (8)

when i was helping a buddy install one, in the instructions it recommended that you adjust it every oil change. i was intrigued by it when it first came out, but after seeing it i was turned off by it. i would rather do one of the zspeed setups.

also didnt like all the calculations and shimming it required

pyshin

iTrader: (14)

^^^

I do remember seeing that, but from my personal experience over 15k miles (yeah, I drive a lot) I have not needed to adjust anything.

Unicus

iTrader: (3)

not needed to and haven't are two different things :P.

pyshin

iTrader: (14)

Lmao. Best of luck with whatever you decide though

zakmartin

Mine's been bottoming out since it hit about 15k miles. I'm at 35k miles right now and I still occasionally have to do the trick where I stick my foot under the clutch pedal and pull it back up. Nissan wouldn't touch it after 12k miles, saying it was "normal wear and tear." I told them to F-themselves over the phone and reported the failure to the NHTSA, like that did any good.

I'll change out the clutch either at 60k or when the one I have now fails completely. It acts up about once a month, I bleed the line and it's fine for another month. The OEM French slave design on the HRs is utter crap.