VQpoweredZ's 2006 Magnetic Black 350z
#101
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: TX
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I hear ya. For whatever it's worth, I'm running 285/35/19 rears with +22 wheels and 10mm spacer (net +12 offset) and rear fenders are rolled but not super tight. I have no rubbing and I am actually going to try a 15mm spacer next week to see if I can sneak by with it. So the point being, with your +18 rears and 275/35 you could easily fit a 10mm spacer. I'd even say a 15mm will fit without a problem, depending where you set your camber.
With the Volk GT-S 19x10.5 +18 in the rears you will NOT be able to run a 10mm or 15mm (is possible of you drill a lil) "bolted on hubcentric wheel spacer" because there is not enough hole clearance for the original studs to sit on the back of the wheel.
The only way to run say a 10mm or a 15mm spacer is you would have to go wit the extended stud route. hope that helps and save you time in the future of mistakenly purchasing it
#103
New Member
iTrader: (17)
With the Volk GT-S 19x10.5 +18 in the rears you will NOT be able to run a 10mm or 15mm (is possible of you drill a lil) "bolted on hubcentric wheel spacer" because there is not enough hole clearance for the original studs to sit on the back of the wheel.
The only way to run say a 10mm or a 15mm spacer is you would have to go wit the extended stud route. hope that helps and save you time in the future of mistakenly purchasing it
The only way to run say a 10mm or a 15mm spacer is you would have to go wit the extended stud route. hope that helps and save you time in the future of mistakenly purchasing it
#104
With the Volk GT-S 19x10.5 +18 in the rears you will NOT be able to run a 10mm or 15mm (is possible of you drill a lil) "bolted on hubcentric wheel spacer" because there is not enough hole clearance for the original studs to sit on the back of the wheel.
The only way to run say a 10mm or a 15mm spacer is you would have to go wit the extended stud route. hope that helps and save you time in the future of mistakenly purchasing it
The only way to run say a 10mm or a 15mm spacer is you would have to go wit the extended stud route. hope that helps and save you time in the future of mistakenly purchasing it
Yea I think i'd end up using extended studs if I went the spacer route too.
#105
Update: MREV2 and 5/16 Copper Iso-Thermal Plenum Spacer were installed today. It was also tuned with Osiris Uprev by R/T Tuning and dyno'ed on their DynoJet. I'll try to get the dyno chart up if I can somehow scan it.
The final numbers are...
272.89 HP
263.94 TQ
The final numbers are...
272.89 HP
263.94 TQ
#108
Here is a link to my thread in the tuning section and the dyno chart as well.
https://my350z.com/forum/tuning/5558...-t-tuning.html
https://my350z.com/forum/tuning/5558...-t-tuning.html
#116
I had a full corrective exterior detail which was around $400. It included stripping other waxes, prepping the car to be polished, 2-3 polishing stages, wet sanding in some spots, 2 coats of sealant, and 1 coat of wax to top that off. The headlights were also wet sanded a bit to get them to be more clear as well.
I also had these two small dents removed in the hatch. The minor scratches that were on the car have definitely become less noticeable and finally for once there are no more swirls .
Nice, i've been wanting my Aerosync bumper back at times haha. Also i'm considering Chargespeed CF Bottom Line side skirts but my wallet says no. I'm the same way I always have a billion different plans in mind.
#117
Premier Member
iTrader: (57)
Thanks Wais. The swirls on the black paint were just driving me crazy.
I had a full corrective exterior detail which was around $400. It included stripping other waxes, prepping the car to be polished, 2-3 polishing stages, wet sanding in some spots, 2 coats of sealant, and 1 coat of wax to top that off. The headlights were also wet sanded a bit to get them to be more clear as well.
I also had these two small dents removed in the hatch. The minor scratches that were on the car have definitely become less noticeable and finally for once there are no more swirls .
Nice, i've been wanting my Aerosync bumper back at times haha. Also i'm considering Chargespeed CF Bottom Line side skirts but my wallet says no. I'm the same way I always have a billion different plans in mind.
I had a full corrective exterior detail which was around $400. It included stripping other waxes, prepping the car to be polished, 2-3 polishing stages, wet sanding in some spots, 2 coats of sealant, and 1 coat of wax to top that off. The headlights were also wet sanded a bit to get them to be more clear as well.
I also had these two small dents removed in the hatch. The minor scratches that were on the car have definitely become less noticeable and finally for once there are no more swirls .
Nice, i've been wanting my Aerosync bumper back at times haha. Also i'm considering Chargespeed CF Bottom Line side skirts but my wallet says no. I'm the same way I always have a billion different plans in mind.
#118
Haha I thought why not since I couldn't see myself doing a full correction twice. I'm sure your paint won't be as much of a pain to correct as the magnetic black was.
I was going to go for this new CQuartz application but it was too expensive for me at the time. It's apparently a new ceramic coating that protects the paint and seals it so you don't have to wax or polish the paint for up to 2 years after applying it.
I was going to go for this new CQuartz application but it was too expensive for me at the time. It's apparently a new ceramic coating that protects the paint and seals it so you don't have to wax or polish the paint for up to 2 years after applying it.