My daily driver: 1st Domestic Bagged Chrysler 300c
#162
Yes, the 5.7 Hemi can definitely make some monster power. It's shared among the entire platform (Magnum, Charger, Challenger, 300, Trucks, etc). However, the 6.1 Hemi has stronger internals, better drivetrain with higher gears, etc etc. They built the SRT8 to perform. I wish I knew more when entering the platform. Then again I thought I would benefit from the "MDS" since I commuted a ton during that time.
Thanks. I'm hope others are enjoying this as much as I am.
Thanks. It's truly rewarding to see people enthused about a build...especially a domestic on a Z forum.
Thanks. I'm hope others are enjoying this as much as I am.
Thanks. It's truly rewarding to see people enthused about a build...especially a domestic on a Z forum.
#166
Boxes, boxes, and more boxes. What are in them?
Some extra large calipers!
All out
Front calipers
8 piston fronts
4 piston rears
Caliper next to my Nikes
Calipers dwarf the oems
They fill up the wheels nicely. Now just have to mate these to some 15" rotors with the correct hat size
Rear calipers
Some extra large calipers!
All out
Front calipers
8 piston fronts
4 piston rears
Caliper next to my Nikes
Calipers dwarf the oems
They fill up the wheels nicely. Now just have to mate these to some 15" rotors with the correct hat size
Rear calipers
#169
#171
Unfortunately, I wasn't able to document the process as well today. I was cranking away on the dynamat and needed to get home in time for dinner with the family.
Danny aka Funkycld came through once again. I had a conversation with him in regards to how I wanted to push the rear wheels out a bit more and to be able to drop the front of the car a bit more. The 2 issues I noticed were the rear section of the inner rear fender has a bulge that the tires end up sitting on once the car is laid out. The 2nd issue was the front SPC Camber arm either being thicker or possibly the nut on top of the balljoint hitting the inner shock mount of the car sooner than the OEM's. Danny identified that the rear could be banged out since the metal in the inner rear fenders are two separate sheets of metal! He also stated that he could fold the metal in the inner portion of the front fenders to gain more of a drop once aired out!
Anyways, on to the pics...
Removed door panels to put a layer of dynamat in the inner part of the door and another layer on the outside shell. LAYER #1...
Layer #2...the same philosophy was applied on all 4 doors
Metal in the inner front fender that hits the tires once aired out
Metal cut and folded
Metal painted to prevent rusting. We gained about an extra 1/4" drop. Once the OEM A-arms are put back in, it should drop another 1/2" or more!!!
Closeup of the bump in the inner rear fender that was banged out. You can see where the tire left marks when the car is aired out. The rear ended up dropping another 3/4 of an inch! Unfortunately, I was running short on time so that is all of the pics I could take.
Danny aka Funkycld came through once again. I had a conversation with him in regards to how I wanted to push the rear wheels out a bit more and to be able to drop the front of the car a bit more. The 2 issues I noticed were the rear section of the inner rear fender has a bulge that the tires end up sitting on once the car is laid out. The 2nd issue was the front SPC Camber arm either being thicker or possibly the nut on top of the balljoint hitting the inner shock mount of the car sooner than the OEM's. Danny identified that the rear could be banged out since the metal in the inner rear fenders are two separate sheets of metal! He also stated that he could fold the metal in the inner portion of the front fenders to gain more of a drop once aired out!
Anyways, on to the pics...
Removed door panels to put a layer of dynamat in the inner part of the door and another layer on the outside shell. LAYER #1...
Layer #2...the same philosophy was applied on all 4 doors
Metal in the inner front fender that hits the tires once aired out
Metal cut and folded
Metal painted to prevent rusting. We gained about an extra 1/4" drop. Once the OEM A-arms are put back in, it should drop another 1/2" or more!!!
Closeup of the bump in the inner rear fender that was banged out. You can see where the tire left marks when the car is aired out. The rear ended up dropping another 3/4 of an inch! Unfortunately, I was running short on time so that is all of the pics I could take.
Last edited by Rickdogg; 02-26-2012 at 08:38 PM.
#172
Just some small updates before the big stuff is done. The head/cam swap, torque converter, and retrofitted AMG brakes will hopefully be done before the car's first show at the end of the month. On to the pics...
Finally was able to get rid of the G on the emblem and replaced it with a billet aluminum anodized black chrysler emblem
EGR delete kit in satin w/ clearcoat courtesy of my sponsor Billet Technology. Thanks again!
Swapped out the brass fittings on the BT oil catch can for the nickel plated versions...mmm
Satin power mirror switch and bezel
Satin wiper stalk
Eww, the interior needs a detail before the show. Satin designer series door locks
Anodized black shifter insert
Polished timing cover ready to go in
New stance! With the fender work the car dropped another 1/2 to 3/4" front and rear! The long tube headers will definitely hit once the car is slammed now
The stance will benefit with some spacers that I plan to run to allow more room for the AMG brakes
Finally was able to get rid of the G on the emblem and replaced it with a billet aluminum anodized black chrysler emblem
EGR delete kit in satin w/ clearcoat courtesy of my sponsor Billet Technology. Thanks again!
Swapped out the brass fittings on the BT oil catch can for the nickel plated versions...mmm
Satin power mirror switch and bezel
Satin wiper stalk
Eww, the interior needs a detail before the show. Satin designer series door locks
Anodized black shifter insert
Polished timing cover ready to go in
New stance! With the fender work the car dropped another 1/2 to 3/4" front and rear! The long tube headers will definitely hit once the car is slammed now
The stance will benefit with some spacers that I plan to run to allow more room for the AMG brakes
#179
I was inspired by magfx's "skid plates" that he made for his LT headers, so I had L-con Racing fabricate some or me. I told them that the car would more than likely sit on the headers once aired out so they welded on some thick pieces of steel.*
closer view of the plate
They did awesome work on the cage for my track car so I'm not surprised that the welds were nice once again
Bottom side
closer view of the plate
They did awesome work on the cage for my track car so I'm not surprised that the welds were nice once again
Bottom side