infidsg35

iTrader: (2)

well last night was my first time racing at the track.. I was very nervous plus I havent realy practiced my launch yet. Plus was a diffrent track then I was used to seeing the tree lights were diff..

R/T...1.222
60 ....2.269
330 ...6.162
1/8 ....9.327
MPH ..77.74
1000 ..12.047
1/4 ....14.348
MPH ..98.16

So I say the next time I go if I get mt r/t down to .722 and my 60 foot to 2.0 It should be easy to run 13.8 - 9.. Now that is something to be happy about and all I have done is grounding kit and 350z pipe/ Stillen..

That wasnt the best time 14.326 @ 96.22 was. I just am proud of the top time cause I bet a new Vett. and he didnt even miss any gears But I had a worse reaction time and same 60' on my best run.. I want to o again I cant wait!!

Do you guys think that a 13 sec is possible from what I posted?
Any advise on how to get 60 foot down .2 sec?

My launches werent always the same I have to get used to holding a the gas at a RMP and watch the tree at the same time.. Its just a lil practice I guess. I launched with RMPs at 1750 - 2000k and when green full gas not dumping the clutch but quicly releasing it.. Any other ways to try?

westpak

iTrader: (19)

Just FYI, I don't think r/t counts on your 1/4 time, that is just your reaction to the green light, the time starts when you trigger the timer by rolling past it.

Launching it the hardest in trying not to lose time, try lowering the air pressure on the rear tires to around 25 and try to launch around 1000-15000 RPM's.

infidsg35

iTrader: (2)

Do you know that for a fact?? Im very new at this and im tring to learn as much as I can.. I have a few new things I want to try.. Tire pressure rear 25psi and 40 in front.. More weight reduction, ice the intake man. before the race, remove the engine cover for better air flow, not spin my tires b4 race ( the race track that I was at only allowed u to burnout on water) witch make no sence to me so I will around the cones next week and by pass the water.. And a diff launch lil more Rmps and a lil more clutch.. Plus I want to shift at 6100 ish since that is where the power starts to go down.. On those times I shifted at like 6600- 6700 (redline)
I hope that I can hit at least a 14.1 @100 with those adjustments and theories... That would make me very happey..

Is there anything else that can be done?
Is r/t part of the time?

jackie chan

iTrader: (1)

just practice...sounds like you are on the right track

2003z

iTrader: (7)

I've only gone twice, my reaction time is .6-.7 range. I go when the last yellow light comes on, don't wait for the green. Going back on friday now that I have added slicks and borla to my arsenal

2003z

iTrader: (7)

Looking at your signature, do the slicks really equal a .7 time difference? I noticed a heck of a lot less slippage when I tried mine on the street, but if its that good I'll be really happy!

jackie chan

iTrader: (1)

they give me about a good .4 or so....i have a couple more mods doe since ive run on street tires...with good track prep my car should go 13.5-6 on street tires....what slicks and psi are you planning to run....i'm not running a full slick its a couple of steps down....

2003z

iTrader: (7)

Mickey Thompson ET Streets, 26x10.50-16

jackie chan

iTrader: (1)

have you ever driven on slicks b4?

westpak

iTrader: (19)

Well, I am no expert at all, but based on what I was told the tree only comes into play if you are racing someone, the 1/4 times don't really matter but rather who gets to the finish line first which will depend on who gets off the line first and the reaction will be a big factor on who wins.

But on test and tune nights when you are really just trying to see how fast your car can go it doesn't matter, you can red ligth and still get a 1/4 mile time, so don't concentrate on the lights so much and more on launching the car.

That is the way I understood it basically your car has a rolling start of one foot before the reaction timer stops, and the ET timer begins.

Last WS6

Get your 60ft time down and you will see 13s.
rt has zero to do with et. Sometimes during test and tune whne you are just going for your best time it is good to not think about the green light,rather think about perfecting your launch.

2003z

iTrader: (7)

Just on the street near my house today. Just got them. Any tips? They sure dont spin like crazy and hop like my 19" S-03s do!

Last WS6

I was always told that your first burnout on a new pair of slicks should be a good long one.

I have had good luck running 12psi in my hoosiers. I went down 1 psi per pass from 16 to get the feel of the car floating at the top end of the run.

2003z

iTrader: (7)

well, I bought the slicks from MaxHax, and he did 3 runs on them, so they aint new, but are still fairly new. Can I drive the 40 miles to/from the track on these tires?

Daytona Blue Z in Bo

When I get a 2.26 60' I can run anywhere from a 14.1 to a 14.25@100.5-101ish

ANd R/T has no effect on your 1/4 time and trap speed. Focus on your launch and get it down a few tenths, consistant 2.1-2.15's are very possible with good technique, my best 60' was a 2.047 which netted me a 13.9 run..

Judging by your current times and traps you would probably need around a 1.9 to crack into the 13's.

My best set up had 40 Psi in the front tires and 25 in the rears and pulling a quick clutch slip from 2500RPMs at launch.

infidsg35

iTrader: (2)

Cool thanx guys for the advice.. I will try the tire pressure thing.. I feel my times can be better not only but 60' but also changing some of my shift points, some more weight reduction, tire pressures, iceing intake manafold, off with engine cover, higher rpm with more clutch launch and NO WATER BURNOUTS!!!

The place was making everyone on streets do a water burnout.. From my understanding that is for drag/slicks.. And all it will do for streat tires is make them wet and make the line wet as you carry water thats on your tire to the line from the water spot.. Does this make any sence? If not please correct me..

I glad to see with 2.26 60' you can get 14.1ish like I said i was redlining every gear.. Witch is a lil dumb considering our power drops after 6k so that is where my next shifts will be.. I believe I can run with you 350z guys. I have raced one on a 3rd gear run we both hit 3rd SAME time actually I was .0001 sec behind him and I pull VERY slowly so I know I got a factory freak!! Plus iv race may G35s and won easily....

13's here I come!!!

dwende170

One other little thing you can do is put 100 octane in your car. You'll feel the difference, it's a lot smoother when you shift. Also, make sure you're not racing with a full tank. I believe 1 gal=8lbs, not too sure though, it's somewhere around that area.

Out of curiousity, when you guys take off do you let go off the clutch completely or little by little? Do you guys play with your clutch more? Cuz my wheel spins like crazy when I take off at 2000rpm by dumping it. Any suggestions?

jackie chan

iTrader: (1)

why 100 octane?

92hatchattack

ummmmmm iceing the intake??? engine cover off???? getting a little outa hand here dont we think???? dont need all that crap, just practice.......

oh,...... dont shift at a lower point..... allthough the power drops off, u will still be making more power up top, then u would be if you shifted earlier...... u shift earlier, and u will be lower in the rpm's in your next gear........ less power

there are lots of diffrent ways to launch this car..... all depends on what works best for you ... from what i have seen alot of the guys on this board like to just dump at 1500-2500 or so

as for me.......... at the track i like to rev her up to about 3600-3800 rpm's and let the clutch out slowly........gettin hard initial jump, and THEN breaking into wheelspin, so im not just spinning in place at the line ......... then, light wheel spin up to about 5200-5300 rpm's... hook up and mash the petal... now i havent been back to the track in like 4 months .. but thats the technique i used last time

2.10 60'
14.04 ET
at only 97.6 mph

now that my Z is broken in ...... she feels stronger .. and i have no doubts in my mind i will hit 13.9's if not lower my next time at the track

touring daytona 350z......... stock everything

infidsg35

iTrader: (2)

well in order to ice intake you need to remove yopu engine cover plus what does it due besides stop air flow from cooling you engine.. How is that getting out of hand? If you can do something that might help that coasts 1 dollar(ice) why not?? Plus when do people let there cars sit with there hoods up with ice on intake manifold.. Im not reinventing the wheele im just tring old tricks.. How is that getting carried away.. I was brought to a site where you put some info in and it calculates where you should shift to keep you at the highest torque and Hp...

going off my memory it was.

1st - 6600
2nd - 6400
3rd - 5750
4th- 5700