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I know all VQ's aren't created equal, but here's my baseline and what it's dynoed year to date with my current mods. I am looking to see if anyone would have an idea about what it would end up being with the future mods and/or worth it. I've always been a turbo guy with my Honda's, Audi's and DSM's, but they have all been pains in my a$$ when it comes to keeping them tuned right during temp changes, oil consumption...etc. It's my daily, but It would be nice to be able to pass a school bus in the mornings for a change...
VQ35DE (non-rev) build date June 2002 (first Chrome Silver to hit the states)
Baseline WHP on Mustang Dyno
183 whp (I seem to have a weak-a$$ baseline and I do have an exhaust leak at one of the flanges) (Keep in mind too, I dynoed in Houston, armpit capital of the world)
Current Bolt-ons
JWT Pop Charger
Borla TD CBE
Hyper-ground Kit
(have an ACT Street/Strip Clutch & Flywheel)
WHP after I, E (above)
203 whp
Future Bolt-ons
MD 5/16" Iso Thermal Plenum Spacer
APS SS 2.5" Test Pipes
UR Crank Pulley
(would a reflashed ECU once these mods are done, but haven't done a ton of research for the Z's. I came from the Honda, Supra and EVO world)
Your opinion on cams would be nice as well, if they're worth the money on these cars w/o FI or what.
(I would like to get the 4.08 FD after all this is said and done.) If anyone has these mods and their numbers started out the same as mine, I'd love your input on most important mods to do first...etc and what you would compare to on the street as far as acceleration before and after your FD install.
I've searched and searched, saw many answers, but I couldn't find anything this specific. I realize that all engines react a little different to mods, but I've given as much info I can on my specific set-up. If you have had or know someone who has had similar starting numbers and now they have these mods, that would give me a great idea. If you know what they are compared to on the street as well, that would be helpful.
ex. "yeah, my buddy has the exact same set-up on his '04 and put down 270whp and before his 4.08 FD install, he was able to stay neck and neck with stock blah blah, now after his FD install, he's able to stay neck and neck with blah blah."
I kinda hope this helps on the responses I'm shooting for. If you feel like flaming, flame away, don't bother me. I apologize if I sound like a broken record, but there's always a deuschebag somwhere lerking and waiting to flame a thread. I'm looking for answers so I can fill my mod fix, not B.S.
Good info to start with. The mods you have are a good start. The sparcer, test pipes or HFC will be a good place to go next. Then a reflash.
As far as the pulley and cams I am not sure. Depends on how much work you want to put in for very little HP increase. Look into some of the actual NA builds and see what they are saying. IIRC, cams didn't bring much power for the money, but I could be wrong (just going of the top of my head).
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'03 LS touring coupe SOLD, Currently own a 2011 SWP STI
Good info to start with. The mods you have are a good start. The sparcer, test pipes or HFC will be a good place to go next. Then a reflash.
As far as the pulley and cams I am not sure. Depends on how much work you want to put in for very little HP increase. Look into some of the actual NA builds and see what they are saying. IIRC, cams didn't bring much power for the money, but I could be wrong (just going of the top of my head).
Thanks, that was quick. I'm not worried about getting it checked for inspection, so I will go for the test pipes instead of the HFC. I've heard mixed things about the pulley's on these cars....if your running FI, keep the stocker, if your n/a, it's ok....if it would yield me 5-10hp, worth it to me, if not, not gonna mess with it. I've seen 270whp with similar mods, but I don't know their baseline to start with, so they could have a freak like someone running a 13.1 or whatever it was on a Rev-up motor.
There is alot of disagreement about the reliability of pullies as well, and for the little amount of power you get, it may not be worth it. As far as HFC, it just depends on if you can take the smell of TPs.
I would go intake, exhaust, reflash...get your dyno numbers again, then see where you are at/where you wanna be.
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'03 LS touring coupe SOLD, Currently own a 2011 SWP STI
$600 of the top of my head, but if you are going to change stuff alot, then osiris or utec may be a better direction for you to go.
Generally it is going to be more like 700-750 if you decide to have the car dyno tuned along with the reflash.
OP: 233 is perfectly acceptable on an uncorrected mustang dyno. An 18 wheel increase with I/H is substantial to say the least. I run the UR crank pulley on my car, but may be getting rid of it soon because I am going to run the OS Giken integrated clutch. I have been reading that the cars behavior isn't that great when both of these mods are on the car. I am going to give it a shot, but will likely upgrade to the ati (which is heavier and balanced). I would definitely recommend a tune/reflash after you get the spacer and test-pipes. From my experience these two mods (moreso than others) cause the car to become dangerously lean. On top of this, you won't see the power you want because the car will be pulling timing and such to keep it safe. All told you should be able to get to 250-255 on that mustang dyno with those additional mods you listed and a good tune (perhaps a bit more or less).
Good Luck.
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"Racing makes Heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty." -- Peter Egan
Generally it is going to be more like 700-750 if you decide to have the car dyno tuned along with the reflash.
OP: 233 is perfectly acceptable on an uncorrected mustang dyno. An 18 wheel increase with I/H is substantial to say the least. I run the UR crank pulley on my car, but may be getting rid of it soon because I am going to run the OS Giken integrated clutch. I have been reading that the cars behavior isn't that great when both of these mods are on the car. I am going to give it a shot, but will likely upgrade to the ati (which is heavier and balanced). I would definitely recommend a tune/reflash after you get the spacer and test-pipes. From my experience these two mods (moreso than others) cause the car to become dangerously lean. On top of this, you won't see the power you want because the car will be pulling timing and such to keep it safe. All told you should be able to get to 250-255 on that mustang dyno with those additional mods you listed and a good tune (perhaps a bit more or less).
My baseline was done at a previous date, same conditions. Either the TX humidity has sucked the life out of my Z, that exhaust leak is causing some issues or my motor was just one of the first ginny pigs...
N/A Bolt-on Questions
