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Old 06-09-2013, 12:17 PM
  #61  
Fixxxercask
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Originally Posted by Classy
Wow! I like that!

On a side note, if you guys can get a LS TB to not only work but to also make cruise control work, with some plenum modification it could really open up some VQ's if I still had my 350z I would be on the edge of my seat watching this. I hated how limited NA was with the crappy of a selection we have for intake manifolds. Best of luck!
Sorry, my car never even had cruise control because it was a base. Both of our cars are full blown race cars and have detachable steering wheels and all that anyway. We won't be doing anything with cruise control.

Last edited by Fixxxercask; 06-09-2013 at 03:11 PM.
Old 06-09-2013, 12:55 PM
  #62  
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Well, got a bit of good news guys. I double checked all my wiring today and everything matches my diagram. I pulled the wiring pin outs from the FSM's of both vehicles so I am pretty confident the pin outs are correct.

The code from last week was showing that the input voltage was low. I started increasing the values in the throttle body table in Uprev for low RPM and idle TB voltages. I flashed the ROM and the car started. It spit and sputtered, but nonetheless it started so I'm slowly making progress here. Its going to take some time with some trial and error to get everything ironed out. Updates to come slowly but surely. Once I get it running well enough I will take a video.

Last edited by Fixxxercask; 06-09-2013 at 12:57 PM.
Old 06-09-2013, 04:23 PM
  #63  
qxz9027mkii
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I have the new haltech plug n play on the 350z, so it seems that the wiring is hammered down and the only issue is while starting up the car, since i don't have the OEM ECU i think this throttle body will work fine with the haltech. i would like to have a plug n play harness for this throttle body, is it possible to have one.
Old 06-10-2013, 12:25 AM
  #64  
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congrats on the start up ive thought of trying this a few times just never got around to it
Old 06-10-2013, 02:49 AM
  #65  
Fixxxercask
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Originally Posted by qxz9027mkii
I have the new haltech plug n play on the 350z, so it seems that the wiring is hammered down and the only issue is while starting up the car, since i don't have the OEM ECU i think this throttle body will work fine with the haltech. i would like to have a plug n play harness for this throttle body, is it possible to have one.
It is possible to make one for sure. I am not sure how to go about getting a male ended plug for the OEM 350Z TB. We would need a plug of that kind that is basically the same thing as the connector that is on the OEM 350Z TB.
Old 06-10-2013, 03:42 AM
  #66  
Epstein
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One of the Maxima guys on here makes an adapter harness for the TBs. Find him in the other 87mm throttle body thread.

Fixxercask, Did you wire the throttle body directly to the ECU and that's it? I did some testing on my bench with the 87mm and a Maxima 75mm. GM puts pull-up/down resistors on TB inputs inside the ECU, Nissan does not (or atleast their value is high enough value not to affect the levels). I'll see if I can dig out the characterization of both pots inside the TB and suggest something. It may be possible to make the GM TB read the same as a Nissan part with only external resistors.
Old 06-10-2013, 11:15 AM
  #67  
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Thanks for the info. I would greatly appreciate it if you could find some details on the two.

Yes, I I just wired it to the ECU essentially. I cut the factory plug off with enough wire to put connectors on. I am using crimps that can be snapped in, so I can remove this and go back to OEM pretty easily.
Old 06-10-2013, 03:36 PM
  #68  
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Nice work! Keep it up!

Would you guys be interested in a handmade aluminum/sheetmetal style coffin intake? Designed for high rpm flow, similar to the cjm, made to fit a bigger tb (extended elbow) priced around 1200? Not offering any services or advertising anything, just asking before i pour a bunch of money into r/d...
Pm me if you are! And keep this thread going!

Last edited by Resmarted; 06-10-2013 at 03:38 PM.
Old 06-10-2013, 03:43 PM
  #69  
SurraTT
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Ive got pnp tb harnesses if anyone needs one. PNP to 75mm max tb, and pnp to 87mm GM tb.
Old 06-10-2013, 04:10 PM
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Classy
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A real high rev manifold would really open up these poor VQ's
Old 06-10-2013, 04:36 PM
  #71  
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EXTREMELY interested in how this pans out, I now have the original SGM motor but am running a completely stock intake system.
http://www.onpointdyno.com/?p=2953


currently limited to 6600 rpm until i can get bigger injectors etc.
Old 06-10-2013, 07:12 PM
  #72  
denchan350gt
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Originally Posted by SurraTT
Ive got pnp tb harnesses if anyone needs one. PNP to 75mm max tb, and pnp to 87mm GM tb.
So you made one Darren? Did you try it out on your maxima? PM me how much.
Old 06-10-2013, 10:49 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by SurraTT
Ive got pnp tb harnesses if anyone needs one. PNP to 75mm max tb, and pnp to 87mm GM tb.
Where did you get the male end connectors or did you go about it another way?
Old 06-11-2013, 06:38 AM
  #74  
Epstein
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Originally Posted by Fixxxercask
Thanks for the info. I would greatly appreciate it if you could find some details on the two.

Yes, I I just wired it to the ECU essentially. I cut the factory plug off with enough wire to put connectors on. I am using crimps that can be snapped in, so I can remove this and go back to OEM pretty easily.
OK here's all the info that I've been sitting gathering.

The 09 Maxima TB that I have produces the voltages that I would expect to see based on reading the 09 Maxima FSM. The TB sensor has the following characteristics:
Pin 2, which is Sensor 1 in the FSM has the traditional TPS signal and is a 4kohm pot. WOT = 4.250V, Closed = .46V, resting = .63V.
Pin 3, which is Sensor 2 in the FSM has the inverted TPS signal and is a 2kohm pot. WOT = .738V, Closed = 4.57V, resting = 4.404V.
These values should look familiar to those who have datalogged. I determined the pot values with a bit of math.

The 87mm throttle body from GM has a somewhat different set of readings. Also, the resting position is significantly more open, and probably somewhere around 10% throttle angle.
Pin F, which correlates to Nissan's Sensor 1 (GM calls this sensor 2) has the traditional TPS signal and is a 5k pot. WOT = 4.420, closed = .75V, resting = 1.596V
Pin D, which correlates to Nissan's Sensor 2 has the inverted TPS signal and is a 10k pot. WOT = 0.58V, Closed = 4.29V, resting = 3.42V.
This throttle body also has a 2.2kohm resistor that runs between terminals E-C (power to ground) to bring the overall resistance between the power pins in line with the Nissan/Hitachi unit.

The first thing you'll notice is the resting voltages are way out of whack. I wouldn't worry about this too much because the ECU can always apply a negative force to the throttle blade (negative numbers in the Uprev throttle table) to close it. The keys here are the WOT and closed values.

If you look at WOT and closed, the Sensor 1 values for the GM are shifted up a bit from the Nissan signals, and the Sensor 2 values are shifted down. The margin is small, but Fixxxercask and others have reported low voltage codes, so there's probably something there. Originally I thought that the solution would be to bend the curves by using pull-up and pull-down resistors (I do this in audio all the time to change a linear taper (like a TB) to an audio taper.). This does work to some degree, but I'm reevaluating my approach to fixing this. Of course, if you have Uprev ROM Editor, you can turn off the low voltage codes. And if Uprev had the man power they could located the voltage range that triggers this code and change it. I'm trying to find the hardware solution.

What code where you throwing Fixxxercask? P0122 or P0222?

I have the 87mm sensor completely disassembled, so we'll see where this goes.
Old 06-11-2013, 11:22 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by denchan350gt
So you made one Darren? Did you try it out on your maxima? PM me how much.

Yes ive got both types of harnesses. I messed around with it some just like everyone else seems to haha.


Originally Posted by Fixxxercask
Where did you get the male end connectors or did you go about it another way?

Ive purchased all the connectors needed for these type of harnesses.
Old 06-11-2013, 11:58 AM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by Epstein
OK here's all the info that I've been sitting gathering.

The 09 Maxima TB that I have produces the voltages that I would expect to see based on reading the 09 Maxima FSM. The TB sensor has the following characteristics:
Pin 2, which is Sensor 1 in the FSM has the traditional TPS signal and is a 4kohm pot. WOT = 4.250V, Closed = .46V, resting = .63V.
Pin 3, which is Sensor 2 in the FSM has the inverted TPS signal and is a 2kohm pot. WOT = .738V, Closed = 4.57V, resting = 4.404V.
These values should look familiar to those who have datalogged. I determined the pot values with a bit of math.

The 87mm throttle body from GM has a somewhat different set of readings. Also, the resting position is significantly more open, and probably somewhere around 10% throttle angle.
Pin F, which correlates to Nissan's Sensor 1 (GM calls this sensor 2) has the traditional TPS signal and is a 5k pot. WOT = 4.420, closed = .75V, resting = 1.596V
Pin D, which correlates to Nissan's Sensor 2 has the inverted TPS signal and is a 10k pot. WOT = 0.58V, Closed = 4.29V, resting = 3.42V.
This throttle body also has a 2.2kohm resistor that runs between terminals E-C (power to ground) to bring the overall resistance between the power pins in line with the Nissan/Hitachi unit.

The first thing you'll notice is the resting voltages are way out of whack. I wouldn't worry about this too much because the ECU can always apply a negative force to the throttle blade (negative numbers in the Uprev throttle table) to close it. The keys here are the WOT and closed values.

If you look at WOT and closed, the Sensor 1 values for the GM are shifted up a bit from the Nissan signals, and the Sensor 2 values are shifted down. The margin is small, but Fixxxercask and others have reported low voltage codes, so there's probably something there. Originally I thought that the solution would be to bend the curves by using pull-up and pull-down resistors (I do this in audio all the time to change a linear taper (like a TB) to an audio taper.). This does work to some degree, but I'm reevaluating my approach to fixing this. Of course, if you have Uprev ROM Editor, you can turn off the low voltage codes. And if Uprev had the man power they could located the voltage range that triggers this code and change it. I'm trying to find the hardware solution.

What code where you throwing Fixxxercask? P0122 or P0222?

I have the 87mm sensor completely disassembled, so we'll see where this goes.
That is excellent info! Thank you very much. I was getting P1221 and P1222 I believe which were both voltage codes on each of the sensors or motors I believe.
Old 06-11-2013, 02:08 PM
  #77  
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I can't find a P1221 or P1222. Can you recheck that?

Also, I just opened up the spare DE ECU that I have and the TPS Sensor 1 and Sensor 2 pins have very light pull-ups and pull-downs of 510kohms. These will not affect the levels that I'm measuring on the bench. These just pull the inputs one way when the TB is disconnected.
Old 06-11-2013, 03:27 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by Epstein
I can't find a P1221 or P1222. Can you recheck that?

Also, I just opened up the spare DE ECU that I have and the TPS Sensor 1 and Sensor 2 pins have very light pull-ups and pull-downs of 510kohms. These will not affect the levels that I'm measuring on the bench. These just pull the inputs one way when the TB is disconnected.
I am going to work on the car some more tomorrow. I may be wrong about those codes. In fact, I am most likely wrong. That was based on my poor memory. I will reply back tomorrow and let you know.
Old 06-12-2013, 01:40 AM
  #79  
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Great work guys. So will it be possible to rotate the TB so it won't be too high or ??
I have been looking for some bigger TB that is a bit more plug and play, and this might be it. Subbed and hope to see it working
Old 06-12-2013, 02:28 AM
  #80  
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The final product will be rotated for sure and probably farther down the intake line towards the front of the car.


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