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So please be gentle and take it easy with any flaming...
I decided to pop my video-cherry on this particular section of the forums.
Here's the deal. I've been running a wet 100-120shot since I bought my car back in 2003. However, back in 2006 I decided to change the color and set up of my car, so I never really re-connected my sytem. I decided to take it easy on my car, so my set up was basically all show.
Last Nov. I wanted to hit the track so I decided to conduct a simple dyno run to see where my A/F ratio stands. I wanted to make sure all my NoS system was up to par and that I wasn't going to break my block on the first run.
Problems:
I gave my solenoids a tune-up
Re-wired and sodered (sp?) all my switches
Replaced my NOS purge button (not sure why it stopped working)
Installed new Ignited Purge button
Not-to sure about 'kink' on nitrous line, figured I would find out if it would hold pressure once I got the bottle filled.
Unfortunately I didn't get nitrous until Friday, the day before the track opened, which is the same day I had a dyno appt. The moment I connected and opened my bottle.... BAM!!!!!!!!!!! Nitrous line blew, apperantly it was crushed when we re-installed the engine and trans after the paint job.
Hence the reason you will my Nitrous bottle on the engine bay instead of my normal bottle bracket in the trunk. We didn't have enough time on Friday morning to run out and purchase a new 16ft line and re-run it under the car. Well, we got the line AFTER the dyno session.
Please keep in mind that this is a STOCK BLOCK!!!!! I know I could get better numbers but I am running my nitrous without an RPM window switch and without any other safety instruments. Like I said, I've been sqeezing on this car since 03, and squeezing prior to that, so I'm confident on the signals my car sends out when on the juice * knock on wood*.
I also lack a reflash, which you can hear us talking about in the vid, which should allow me to gain a couple more RPM's on the top. Unfortunately my power starts building at about the 4K rmp range, which doesn't give my car its true potential.
Where did you get long tube headers from?? How much? So does that mean these delete the cats and bolt straight to the y-pipe?? Car sounds really nice man.
SAFC-II I thought those things didnt work with our cars?
Well, hopefully this wont cause a flame suit to be required, but....
Most people just seem to repeat what they hear. I have been using the SAFC-II since it first came out and I have loved. The SAFC does work with our cars, but I guess its not a popular thing sold by the vendors here, so that might be reason why other "popular solultions" are always talked about?
I seriously doubt another program/item will give better numbers, as there is only soo much an engine can handle before the weakest link goes out.
The only way I was going to gaing better numbers (stock wise), as you can hear on the vid, is if I reflashed my car so I can get a higher rev limiter. The numbers you see are not the car's full potential. We let go the gas before we hit redline as we didn't want to pop the engine. However, if you look at the graph, my numbers were still climbing.
Where did you get long tube headers from?? How much? So does that mean these delete the cats and bolt straight to the y-pipe?? Car sounds really nice man.
They are Xerd headers.
Yes, that means I replaced my DC sport headers and Helix test pipes. So now my headers connect straight to my Tanabe Y-pipe.
Yes, that means I replaced my DC sport headers and Helix test pipes. So now my headers connect straight to my Tanabe Y-pipe.
Thanks for the sound compliment.
I ran Xerds when i was N/a and loved them although they were a PITA to install. I thought cats were mandatory in Cal....Hope there's no CHP trolling this site, because they now have your license plate.
Very nice numbers btw....throw some C16 in and spray a 150 shot and you will be in the 400whp club.
I ran Xerds when i was N/a and loved them although they were a PITA to install. I thought cats were mandatory in Cal....Hope there's no CHP trolling this site, because they now have your license plate.
Very nice numbers btw....throw some C16 in and spray a 150 shot and you will be in the 400whp club.
Thanks!
Serious, you thought the Xerds were a PITA? I actually found them easier than my DC Sports. They practically slipped in. Maybe cuz I had already installed the DC's???
Regards to the CHP... I've got too many tix to even worry about that. Not to mention they have my car on file.. they tend to take pictures and load them to a database (I know it sounds like BS, but it's true).
C16.... hmmmmmmmmm Sounds like a plan.
__________________ Who needs a turbo when there's N2O? 378.9RWHP!
what jets are you running? I want to run a 120 shot when my setup is fixed
I'll double check when I get back home. We went based on the NOS recommendations though. I'm sure you can find them on the sheet they provide for their systems.
__________________ Who needs a turbo when there's N2O? 378.9RWHP!
I know where to find them but some people have used different jets to achieve the same hp level...imho the fuel side is what varies with a lot of people. Your a/f looked alright from what I could see from the vid. Congrats on the new found power!
we have installed and tuned a few SAFCs and the stock computer will override them, do a two week comparison on them and you will see.
what kind of dyno was that??
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nastyboy
Well, hopefully this wont cause a flame suit to be required, but....
Most people just seem to repeat what they hear. I have been using the SAFC-II since it first came out and I have loved. The SAFC does work with our cars, but I guess its not a popular thing sold by the vendors here, so that might be reason why other "popular solultions" are always talked about?
I seriously doubt another program/item will give better numbers, as there is only soo much an engine can handle before the weakest link goes out.
The only way I was going to gaing better numbers (stock wise), as you can hear on the vid, is if I reflashed my car so I can get a higher rev limiter. The numbers you see are not the car's full potential. We let go the gas before we hit redline as we didn't want to pop the engine. However, if you look at the graph, my numbers were still climbing.
Hmm, well I've been using SAFC-II for a while without any issues. Not really worth spending more $$ to dyno the car just to see #'s again in two weeks. However, if I do go to a dyno for whatever other reason I'll post any difference.
Regards to the dyno, I just got home and called the shop but I think they're all gone for the holiday since no one answered. So I can only assume what type of dyno this is, but I rather just wait and get the correct info.
Hmm, well I've been using SAFC-II for a while without any issues. Not really worth spending more $$ to dyno the car just to see #'s again in two weeks. However, if I do go to a dyno for whatever other reason I'll post any difference.
Regards to the dyno, I just got home and called the shop but I think they're all gone for the holiday since no one answered. So I can only assume what type of dyno this is, but I rather just wait and get the correct info.
its not that there are any issues, its just that all that thing does is offsets the maf signal. the factory computer actually can tell what its doing and it over compensates it. once it does that, you will usually make less power than you would without it. i was the same way before until i dyno tested three of them.
My first ever vid
I thought those things didnt work with our cars?
Not to mention they have my car on file.. they tend to take pictures and load them to a database (I know it sounds like BS, but it's true). 
Who needs a turbo when there's N2O? 378.9RWHP! 
