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hey guys...im having some trouble here. im trying to program the brain of the zex kit so its programmed for WOT, but something dangerous is happening as i finish.
so i do what is recommended, everything is unplugged (fuel rail adapter, nitrous adapter to intake tube). i go and push the button on the brain so the light turns red and ready for program. i go in my car and WOT the pedal to 6500RPM for 10 seconds, and when i go back to the brain i see the light is flashing red, green, off, etc. i go back in my car to turn off the arming switch and my car. when i turn my car back on and arm the nitrous, i hear a tick, pause, tick...etc and it keeps doing that. i was curious so i opened my bottle and pointed the brain outward from the bay and noticed it would spray nitrous every few seconds...very not safe if i had all my hoses hooked up.
im tried programming it at least 3 times before i gave up and i dont now the problem. ive tried the quiet way of jus taking off the tube and pushing down the flap also, but doin that way never gave me a red, green, off flash from the brain.
i feel like i wired everything correctly....if anyone in my area NJ can help me out with this and help me finish my nitrous setup, (not much just this brain program and DT Window Switch) i will gladly pay you.
just to add, i have my TPS wire (white from brain) hooked up to the green wire on the throttle body....i have a ground on the chassis....and the 12v is fused to a 12v battery source.
i have it wired so its constant but only if i arm the nitrous, not through my ignition. i did it that way cuz it was easier and i can have my bottle warmer on as my car is off.
i had the same problem with mine. the throttle body only gets about 4.75 volts at wot with the car not running. the zex box needs at least 5 volts to program it for wot. the only way around it is to buy a separate activation switch and use it to spray or buy a window switch to do it. i have an automatic so i just used a push button switch and use it at 3000 rpm and above.
i had the same problem with mine. the throttle body only gets about 4.75 volts at wot with the car not running. the zex box needs at least 5 volts to program it for wot. the only way around it is to buy a separate activation switch and use it to spray or buy a window switch to do it. i have an automatic so i just used a push button switch and use it at 3000 rpm and above.
well i have a window switch, i have the dynotune one. so if i may ask, how do i go about wiring it so it reads more volts?
you say its 4.75 volts when car is not running? i had my car running when i did my program, and then when i turned it off, and i turned it back on, it did that problem, it didnt make a difference whether car was on or not.
ZEX brain FTL. From what I've seen ZEX kits have been nothing but trouble for a lot of people. People seem to always have trouble programming. Plus, the solenoids are incorporated into the unit, which is a huge minus for me. Ditch the brain unit, get individual solenoids if you can and stick with the Dynotune Window Switch you already have to control everything.
if your low on money, you can buy an activation switch for about 10 dollars and wire it up to a 12v source and to the wire going to your zex box. you will still use the arming switch and then when your ready just push the activation button and spray. you have to be safe and never press it under 2500 rpm. i push mine at 3000 rpm and a few times at 2500 at the track. i have been running it like that for 6 months and have went through about 10 bottles with a 100 shot and haven't had any problems. i wouldn't run the bottle heater with the car off. it draws too much current and will drain your battery and you will run into problems.
If you're going to keep the ZEX brain, then I think its a bit redundant to use the Dynotune window switch/tps, no? I forgot what ZEX brain does, exactly, though.
well i want to use the dynotune window switch to spray certain rpms and spray certain gears, but i need the brain solenoid to actually spray....im trying to figure out the wiring to use both without problems.
well i want to use the dynotune window switch to spray certain rpms and spray certain gears, but i need the brain solenoid to actually spray....im trying to figure out the wiring to use both without problems.
Ah, then that's relatively easy. Wire the brain to the Dynotune module (the wires for solenoid activation) as normal and the rest should follow the Dynotune instructions.
see im not very electronic and i hate it, but i was thinking that makes sense at first. i was gona take off the white from the brain that us connected to the green wire on the TB, and solder the white wire onto the TPS wire of the dynotune window switch, then wire the window switch to the green wire on TB. basically like you say, BUT i saw on the dynotune website i saw this....
DO NOT CONNECT SOLENOIDS DIRECTLY TO THE OUTPUT WIRES!!!
RELAYS MUST BE USED IF CURRENT DRAW IS MORE THAN 1AMP!!
and i was worried maybe that meant not to do it that way, cuz in a way, our way is a relay, correct?
I'm not very good with wires, neither. However, I think that first warning is just telling you to connect your solenoids to the ground wire. The second is just another warning you should keep in mind when wiring everything.
Also, like I said, wire the brain's wires to the Dynotune module only and wire the rest of the wires from the Dynotune module to the appropriate wires.
Why not just take the "Brain" out and use just the Dynotune switch? It's easy to setup and install. If you really need help wiring it in, just ask. I've been running one since 06 with no problems. GL
so your saying just take out the brain from zex, but thats what sprays the nitrous and fuel, its actually a solenoid too, so i dont think i can just take that out, i have to wire it somehow to compensate for the windowswitch and spraying fuel/no2 at certain rpms and gears.
Dan
ps, let me know details dude, im all ears at this point, cuz i dont want to wire anything the wrong way, especially with nitrous.
ZEX Brain Program Help
Plus, the solenoids are incorporated into the unit, which is a huge minus for me. Ditch the brain unit, get individual solenoids if you can and stick with the Dynotune Window Switch you already have to control everything.
