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#1 |
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Registered User
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OK, this is my first DIY and I'm not really the type that does any work on my cars myself, so I was worried that this wouldn't really work, but I think it worked quite nicely.
So a few months ago, I posted about my wife's car being keyed. It also had many other scratches. Well, a few accidents happened and I got them repaired. The body shop just did the accident damage and replaced the rear driver's quarter panel. This looked great, but the scratches bothered me that much more, since the rest of the car was looking new. They offered to fix the scratches, but since this was all out of pocket, I decided to just wait. The body shop's owner gave me a product to remove the scratches myself and it actually works really well! It is 3M hand glaze (pics to follow). Here is how I personally did it: Step 1: Supplies -A soft, clean wash cloth. I would use one that is rough, not something smooth (i.e. wash cloth vs. cloth diaper/burp cloth). -3M Imperial Hand Glaze (05990); this will work on ANY COLOR CAR ![]() Step 2: Prep Just clean the areas to be fixed. I didn't even bother with this, but after doing it dirty, I'd recommend you clean the area first to make it easier and possibly get even better results. Before (passengers' side) ![]() Before (driver's side) ![]() ![]() Step 3: Apply liberally to scratches that are NOT through the paint yet. You cannot hurt anything with this product, so feel free to use as much as you want. You don't have to be careful about going over other areas. If you do deep scratches, you will need to do this several times to really get rid of them. I found the best way is to first just run it across the scratch with the cloth. Then on the second round, I dab it with the cloth which kind of creates a "roughed" or textured application of the glaze. This will help it get into every bit of the scratch. Passenger side application ![]() ![]() ![]() Driver side application ![]() After dabbing it to roughen it up ![]() Step 4: Let the glaze dry for a few seconds. Step 5: Lightly rub the glaze off and apply a bit more, dabbing it with the cloth to roughen it up a bit. Let it dry again. Step 6: Buff the glaze out with the cloth by rubbing in circles with medium to firm pressure on the car. Repeat steps 3-6 as needed. Step 7 (optional): I haven't done this yet, but if you wax and buff the car after this, you should really never even see a scratch again. Step 8: Tell your wife that she owes you big time. PIITB! Enjoy! Passenger's side after ![]() ![]() Driver's side after 1 application ![]() ![]() Driver's side after 2 applications (will do one more tomorrow)
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Greddy TT, Built Longblock, Built 5AT, Pro-EFI, Etc, Etc, Etc 525WHP @ 14 PSI, high boost tune coming soon. Last edited by mrg1981; 06-09-2008 at 09:41 PM. |
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#2 |
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use the little mountain image icon when posting pics, it'll show up like this
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#3 | |
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Quote:
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Greddy TT, Built Longblock, Built 5AT, Pro-EFI, Etc, Etc, Etc 525WHP @ 14 PSI, high boost tune coming soon. |
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#4 |
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Looks nice! However as far as i understand it only covers them up correct? Kind of like a filler....you'd need to polish them with a buffer to really remove them
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2007 Magnetic Black Enthusiast 6-Spd |
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#5 |
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3m makes some good stuff. Thanks for sharing!
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2008 Magnetic Black Enthusiast 6MT |
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#6 |
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Registered User
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Louis - As far as I can tell it really gets rid of smaller scratches. The deepest one (driver's side) is still visible in daylight, but I'll buff it out to see how that helps. Just buffing alone never did much, but I think the combination of the glaze and the buffing will work.
Mr. - No problem. Such a simple process and a long DIY write up-but I thought someone would appreciate it!
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Greddy TT, Built Longblock, Built 5AT, Pro-EFI, Etc, Etc, Etc 525WHP @ 14 PSI, high boost tune coming soon. |
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#7 | |
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have no power
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Function:Tuned Power. |
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#8 | |
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Face Fappin'
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Too bad the first rain will wash your work away. What you need to do is BUFF the scratches out. Nice try.
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#9 |
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Regular
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Wow, ancient Chinese secret, eh? That stuff looks cool, seems to be a very handy thing to have in one's bag of tricks!
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2003 SB 350Z Touring Coupe / JWT Pop Charger / Flux Capacitor / Motorcycle crash pics at http://www.flickr.com/photos/jasonjaujou / Car crash pics at http://www.drizzle.com/~jaujou Political Correctness is a doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and is rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end. |
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#10 |
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Registered User
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Anybody else has had success? My roof was keyed, so I am going to give this a try.
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2006 MB Ent 6mt - Nismo Exhaust, Nismo Radiator Cap, Mrev2, 5/16 spacer copper isothermal - Dyno@Mrc - 263.9whp - N/A Dynotune Nitrous with all the goodies - 42N 24F or 52N 28F - I'd rather be fast than look it. |
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#11 |
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It has still kept the smaller scratches away. The largest one never went completely away, and I still need to buff it out to get rid of it completely. After over a month, the small scratches are still completely gone.
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Greddy TT, Built Longblock, Built 5AT, Pro-EFI, Etc, Etc, Etc 525WHP @ 14 PSI, high boost tune coming soon. |
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#12 |
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Banned
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This is a waste of time and energy. It will keep them filled for a month or so, after that.. they will be back. Why bother?
Use that time and money to use a product to KEEP them away, such as Scratch X or something similiar. |
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#13 |
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Registered User
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Nice writeup, but this seems like just a temp fix to me.
If the scratch is just in the clear coat, a rotary buffer and someone who knows what they're doing will take care of it, no problem. However, if it extends into the color coat or primer, ideally, you'll want a repaint. There is something you can do though, which involves applying tiny coats of either primer, color, or clear about once a day for a week or so, then using a rotary buffer to level the paint and clear so it is flush. It takes some patience, but the results are very good when done correctly. There's a writeup somewhere on the internets but I'm not sure where it is now
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2008 San Marino Blue 350z EnthuZiast | SHIFT_ ドリフト |
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#14 |
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That door has seen many-a-walls/car doors. The whole edge is scratched up...lol.
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#15 |
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how do you fix carbon fiber scraches does anyone know?
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#16 | |
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Quote:
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Greddy TT, Built Longblock, Built 5AT, Pro-EFI, Etc, Etc, Etc 525WHP @ 14 PSI, high boost tune coming soon. |
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#17 |
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Anyone ever use this before?
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2006 MB Ent 6mt - Nismo Exhaust, Nismo Radiator Cap, Mrev2, 5/16 spacer copper isothermal - Dyno@Mrc - 263.9whp - N/A Dynotune Nitrous with all the goodies - 42N 24F or 52N 28F - I'd rather be fast than look it. |
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#18 | |
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Registered User
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I don't recommend this product unless you have a color Fully color sanded car. The OEM paint jobs on our cars have "Orange peel" you can see it at certain angles, like in my black paint you can really see it. this product has you sand the area smooth... thus leaving no scratches, but you'll end up with one area that has no orange peel. Trust me it will look out of place because its nice and orange peel free in whatever spot you have but orange peel will surround that area, drawing more attention to that area. Unless you've color sanded your car and its smooth as glass, stick with buffing or scratch X or similar products. edit: I just noticed that the one your holding is one for 'ACRYLIC GLASS' or Pexiglas, That would only work well on your headlights or plastic parts. Last edited by OCTrackZ; 08-20-2008 at 02:58 PM. |
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#19 |
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Yeah, i noticed that too when I took a picture, I guess I'll buy some to do my parents headlights or something. I'll give that 3m product a try. Do you guys recommend clay bar first, then the 3m, or it will be fine to use the product then just put a coat of wax?
How did this fix hold up through the summer?
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2006 MB Ent 6mt - Nismo Exhaust, Nismo Radiator Cap, Mrev2, 5/16 spacer copper isothermal - Dyno@Mrc - 263.9whp - N/A Dynotune Nitrous with all the goodies - 42N 24F or 52N 28F - I'd rather be fast than look it. |
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#20 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
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Greddy TT, Built Longblock, Built 5AT, Pro-EFI, Etc, Etc, Etc 525WHP @ 14 PSI, high boost tune coming soon. |
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