aas350z

iTrader: (1)

Hii
Im finishing work on my car and I started to thinking what would be safe hp / boost level for build VQDE. Any exp how to tune it?
Internals
Cp pistons 8:5, BC rods, greddy tt kit, fuel return self made, FIC injectors 775cc unfortunatley I have normal ARPS not L19
My goal is to cross 600 hp on max 17psi is it relistic assumption?

2004Black350z

iTrader: (37)

Should have went high compression with 80mm turbos and Nos

aas350z

iTrader: (1)

I already killed 2 N/A engines this is my first build and I dont know how many hp Nm it can take after slave turbos are fine for 700 hp but what is super safe level? You know not more than 17psi or 800Nm?

Drako_MDx

What EMS are you using to tune your car with?

Are you tuning your own car or are you getting it Dyno tuned at a shop?

aas350z

iTrader: (1)

Haltech Platinum, I will tune my own car on a dyno but what does it matter?

RudeG_v2.0

iTrader: (1)

The head studs are the weak link in your setup. I'd feel uneasy trying to push 17 PSI and 600+whp without L19 studs. Head lift would be a nagging worry at that power level.

OldManZ350

iTrader: (23)

I'm making 16-17psi VQ35DE, totally stock block, heads and cams. 40,000 miles plus.

2004Black350z

iTrader: (37)

What's ur secret

Drako_MDx

And I bet the tune has everything to do with this...

So many people worry about building "bullet proof" engines only to F@€K them up with shitty tunes.

OldManZ350

iTrader: (23)

Tune is everything! I do all my own Tuning.

IMO, most so called tuners rush thru the job to make a quick $700-$1000. They don't work out the basics first and just tune for WOT, big mistake and the customer pays for it.

Their are tricks with dyno/tunig software to make the graph appear to be in tune when in fact their are huge spikes or waves in the AFR that are unacceptable.

When you get your car tuned, make sure you get all the Data, and don't forget about the Ignition Timing Curve, very important.

aas350z

iTrader: (1)

I exchanged cams end plenum from non revup to revup to avoid to high Nm. I think that was a reason why I killed last engin, I had 450hp and 650nm on stock internals and speed up ignition to much, thanks a lot for advise, this time I will start from scrach and I will create totaly new map from the begining

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

17-18 psi thru a supercharger is nowhere near comparable to that boost on a TT setup. The trq and whp are well over 100 different.

Boost is just the air not making it into the motor. Everyone would rather have 17psi making 600whp compared to 17psi making 500, as is the case with greddy vs vortech.

So, OP if you sold your greddy kit and slapped on a vortech, sure you could run 17psi all day.

OldManZ350

iTrader: (23)

About the only difference between Turbos and Superchargers in this regard is the Boost curve.

Yes, a Turbo will make more WHP, comparing apples to apples. But the motors are both producing same initial HP internally. The loss or difference for the SC is in the Belt Drive and the load on the motor, about 80-90 hp @ 17 psi.

- bigc -

iTrader: (18)

I think what str8 is cautioning the OP about is the difference in torque produced by turbos. While you could make the same amount of horsepower at redline with a supercharger by swapping pulleys, turbos would produce a lot more [engine destroying] torque. So, all things being equal, 17psi out of turbo setup would much more stressful on a motor than 17psi from a supercharger.

OldManZ350

iTrader: (23)

The added stress with a turbo is only because of the Boost Curve, Full Boost coming in between 3500-4500rpm compared to a SC Full Boost @ Redline.

All thing being Equal, You Cannot make as much HP with a Supercharger as you can with a Turbo. SC's are Parasitic.