integrate

Today, I dyno'd my 350z on a Dynapack Hub Dyno. This is where the dyno is attached to the hub instead of the wheels rolling on a roller.

I was on 91 octane and all runs were made in 4th gear. My car is bone stock. HP is SAE. First few runs were made around 180-185F temp, and the last run was made at around 200F temp. The 200F temp run yielded 251rwhp, so the motor doesn't seem to be TOO heat sensitive. I had pretty consistent numbers through out all runs.

Motor Temperature: 180-185F
Max RWHP: 256.5@6118 rpms
Max RW FT/LB: 244.1@4858 rpms

These numbers may seem higher than usual, but on a Dynapack Hub Dyno, numbers are usually 8-10 rwhp higher, according to tests where cars were tested on a hub dyno, then a rolling dyno. So, on a rolling dyno, I would probably have around 246-248 rwhp.

Charts are a bit blurry. I'll take more and better pics when I get a fresh battery.

krinkov

Holy Moly! Those are nice ##s One question, why not dyno in 5th gear (1:1 ratio=most accurate)?

integrate

Yea, I requested 5th gear...I think one of them were actually 5th gear, but on a hub dyno, I was told it really make a difference.

SandMan

How many miles did you have on your Z?
Nice numbers btw .

integrate

oh yea, I have 1350 miles on my Z. I broke it in by the book and I never took it over 3000rpms.

SandMan

Damn, that must have taken some self control . I am at 800 miles and have taken her over 5k. Can't help myself.

integrate

Yea...I basically went crazy until 1200 miles hit, BUT I did cheat a little bit...took it over 3 around 1050 miles

pluckyduck

No way could I do that. 3K?, you'd be shifting constantly. I personally don't believe in a break in period. It's been my experience that it makes zero difference, and sometimes cars that are redlined from day one turn out to be faster cars in the long run. I am at 900 miles and I haven't taken it to 6500 yet, but I certainly have taken it to 5K+ many times.

-Plucky

integrate

Ok, I guess a dyno comparision would be a decent way of finding out if break in periods are necessary or not. I say go dyno your car right now while it's still in the "break-in" period according to the manual, then let us know how it goes. I'd really like to find out. I'd appreciate it.

Edit: According to other dynos I've seen from people still in their break in period, they were only in the high 220 rwhp.

integrate

Edit: I meant that it really DOES NOT make a difference...I must've been really tired.

Stailey

really nice numbers....

Wicked4u2c

iTrader: (6)

Um... DO race drag cars break in the engine? NO... It isn't any different than a production motor. I never broke any of my cars and I have had better results doing it this way... Of course, I don't abuse it either, but I will drive just normal... Second, ive seen those Dynapack Dyno's and they tend to give you about 10-20 more horsepower depending on application.

Wicked4u2c

iTrader: (6)

hehe, dude we have built many motors and have followed same procedure. It makes no difference (apples&Oranges) the working components are the same thing. I built a 1.8L LSVTEC engine (mild setup). Built one I still remember on thursday.(about 1 year ago) Dynoed it on Friday and Raced it at the track on Saturday. The car was one of fastest car's I have owned... What is "your" philosophy on breaking in the motor...?

Wicked4u2c

iTrader: (6)

an lsvtec is not a race motor it never will be. You can build them up like crazy I agree, but it is no race motor. That's the combination of the head of one motor and the block of the other.

My point exact... a motor is a motor. Venom (www.venom-performance.com) also uses a similiar setup for racing... Believe me, drag race cars do not get broken in...

If a motor is going to choke on you than its going to do in early stages. I have already seen here people having problems with other "engine related" issues and they broke their car in fine! My car already has 1,400 miles on it and feels like a champ! No problems runs great and going to change the oil right now..
HEHE



anyhow, I broke in my spec with a 6500 redline by not shifting over 4500. I raced it maybe 5 times before I got to 1000 miles and I have not had the plethora of oil burning issues my the spec v and se-r have had.

krinkov

When I worked at Veloce Motors we built Formula Atlantic and Cosworth DFV F1 engines every day. Yes, race motors are not broken in, they go straight from the stand to the dyno and redlined, then in their car and raced. Race motors are also built with very loose tolerances to reduce friction and are only meant to race 10-20 times before being rebuilt. Whereas your street car engine is made to idle smoothly, pass smog, and run reliably to 100K+ miles. My boss Dave Vegher has built race motors for 30+ years, but when he got his new BMW 5 series, he babied the engine for the first thousand miles as well, nuff said

Thunderbolt

Our stock car engines are built along the same lines. The only breakin is running them on a Dyno to get the ingnition timming set and adjust the carb. We get appx 370hp (crank) from a SBC with a 350 cfm carb. They are built to last 600 miles with out a rebuild. Am I breaking my Z in? Yes along with every other car, truck, motorcycle that I have owned. As former auto tech I have seen more than my share of oil burners that were caused from abuse. I would much rather look for HP from another source than one of 'drive it like you stole it.' Those extra few HP are not worth abusing a new motor over.

BTW, I noticed the #7 is settting on scales. Did you do the set ups? If so can you PM with cornner weights? I am just wondering ihow much differance there is between a oval setup and a road course setup. Thanks