When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I wish I could help pirate... have you tried looking on ebay?
Yes. And I posted in the want to buy forum on here too, but no luck so far. I hate to have to change all my lug nuts just because one doesn't match the others. LOL!
I've got similar ones (spline drive) on my LMGT4's and they look and work great. The black chrome is guaranteed for life never to chip or corrode, and you can order replacement parts from McGard if you ever need them.
I've got similar ones (spline drive) on my LMGT4's and they look and work great. The black chrome is guaranteed for life never to chip or corrode, and you can order replacement parts from McGard if you ever need them.
But a full set to replace one nut.... ehhhhh, not so much, ya?
Thanks. Yes I saw the ad, but was trying to purchase something a little cheaper. I going to try to fix the lug nut first though. I was finally able to find a tap the right size today. My tap and die set didn't have a 12 x 1.25 tap or die in it. I was able to find a die the other day to fix the wheel stud, but I didn't think about purchasing a die then too. You would think 12 x 1.25 taps and dies would be readily available since they are standard sizes for Japanese performance cars, but they don't seem to be.
I'm finally getting around to mounting Nismo Z34 wheels on my 2003 Track, and I cannot understand how posters have managed to do so without front spacers.
@ZPirate in particular mentioned - with pics - that no spacer is needed, but here's the issue:
Can't even fit a credit card between wheel lip and suspension arm.
I have 20mm spacers, but in fitting the wheel to them, the wheel protudes at what I think is a comical level. I'm wondering a couple of things:
1. How far away do I need this wheel to be from the suspension arm for safety? I'm not running a large tire in front (245/35ZR19). I think I'd like as thin a spacer as possible (5mm max?).
2. Is there a difference in suspension geometry/parts for the Track, which would explain how close this wheel gets to my A arm, and perhaps not to other people's Zs?
I am replacing RH J8's (19x9/19x10) offsets of which were made for the Z. The front NISMO wheel appears to sit ~2-3mm more inboard than do the RH J8's - plus they're 1/2" wider.
I'm finally getting around to mounting Nismo Z34 wheels on my 2003 Track, and I cannot understand how posters have managed to do so without front spacers.
@ZPirate in particular mentioned - with pics - that no spacer is needed, but here's the issue:
Can't even fit a credit card between wheel lip and suspension arm.
I have 20mm spacers, but in fitting the wheel to them, the wheel protudes at what I think is a comical level. I'm wondering a couple of things:
1. How far away do I need this wheel to be from the suspension arm for safety? I'm not running a large tire in front (245/35ZR19). I think I'd like as thin a spacer as possible (5mm max?).
2. Is there a difference in suspension geometry/parts for the Track, which would explain how close this wheel gets to my A arm, and perhaps not to other people's Zs?
I am replacing RH J8's (19x9/19x10) offsets of which were made for the Z. The front NISMO wheel appears to sit ~2-3mm more inboard than do the RH J8's - plus they're 1/2" wider.
Thanks for any input you have!
Let me cut to the chase first before an explanation... You will want to run those wheels at +25mm effective offset with the 245/35s; meaning 15mm spacers.
FTR, I've fit one of my front LMGT5s (9.5" Z34N wheel) to my Z33 and found exactly what you did, suspension interference). However, I run the LMZ5 (Z34 accessory wheels in 19x9 +47 & 19x10 +30) at effective +27 (using 20mm spacers) on the front without any problems (can even run them without spacers but I wouldn't due to the effect on steering response). Here's the fit at +27 with 245/35s:
If you look carefully, you can see that there's still room to go outwards (both front and rear but for now, just look at the front wheel.)
That extra 12.7mm of total width (added disproportionately to the inside of the wheel) and doing the math (using the tire calculator) shows your fitment will be roughly 8mm further out than what's shown on mine. A near ideal fit from an aesthetic and handling point of view. Scrub radius stays within a sane range so steering accuracy and response remains sharp.
To get an idea of what it looks like, fit wise, here's my 19x9.5 +22 fronts with 255/35s (3mm wheel offset diff isn't going to make a huge diff in look):
To answer your other questions....
There is no difference in the front suspension from trim level to trim level.
A 5mm spacer will give you clearance on the inboard side (suspension clearance) but probably better to have more like 10mm as the upright is curved outward and while a good set of shocks and springs would likely prevent too much upward tire motion (downward suspension compression) causing tire-to-suspension interference, the first time you have to hit the brakes hard could cause enough compression of the suspension to cause the tire to make contact with the upright.
I would NOT use a 5mm spacer (as above) because in addition to possible inadequate clearance, your effective offset is still too high, 5mm higher than stock. Bring it down to at least +25mm offset to maintain good steering response.
Only other note about this fitment - but it looks like you've already figured it out - Z34 wheels require shanked lug nuts, not conical like every other wheel fitted to a Z33.
How did ZPirate (and others, apparently) install these wheels with no spacers at all? There is only one iteration of these wheels, is there not? Or have they been manufactured with different offsets for different years?
And the suspension parts/design on all Z33s is the same?
How did ZPirate (and others, apparently) install these wheels with no spacers at all? There is only one iteration of these wheels, is there not? Or have they been manufactured with different offsets for different years?
And the suspension parts/design on all Z33s is the same?
You got me. Dunno how anyone did so without spacers. Or maybe it's OK to run that close to the suspension - but I wouldn't bet on it nor trust it. Either way, if they're running at +40 (the spec on the front wheel), they're NOT getting the most out of running them as that much inboard shift does not play well on steering response and braking performance.
Z33s have close to a zero scrub radius and respond well to a slight shift to positive (decreasing offset). Z34s, OTOH, have a negative scrub radius which the increased offset wheels were designed for so it's not a plug and play swap. Works... but not at peak efficiency.
Yes, there's ONE single suspension design from '03 to '08. There are minute differences in componentry from 04.5-on (shocks and springs are revised) but for this discussion, nothing really to write home. The only big diff is between the standard suspension and the Nismo - but even that's just different shock/spring rates, no other geometry or component changes.
And the wheels... yep, just the one version of LMGT5s. 19x9.5 +40 and 19x10.5 +23, rears, which incidentally fit perfectly with 275/35 or 285/35 on Z33, assuming rolled rear fenders in many cases.
How big a spacer can be run before extended studs are necessary?
I'm thinking I may compromise @ 10mm, at which point I'll need extended studs - and I may use the opportunity to replace the hubs, since they have 230K on them.
I figure that the tires going on these wheels are going to be slightly stretched, putting the tread contact ~5mm further away from the inside wheel lip, minimizing the negative impact on performance. Is that logic sound?
How big a spacer can be run before extended studs are necessary?
I'm thinking I may compromise @ 10mm, at which point I'll need extended studs - and I may use the opportunity to replace the hubs, since they have 230K on them.
I figure that the tires going on these wheels are going to be slightly stretched, putting the tread contact ~5mm further away from the inside wheel lip, minimizing the negative impact on performance. Is that logic sound?
Sounds like you want to run slip-on spacers (vs bolt ons). If that's the case, my experience with slip-ons has not been good. Don't know if it was the type/brand I used (that came off of one of my cars that had them when I bought it) but I tried using them (simple 5mm ones) on my '03 and ran into not just one but two of the wheels ended up prematurely loosening lug torque. If it were just one, I'd call it my human error.... but two? Don't think I was that drunk.
I already didn't like spacers and still don't but use 'em. And when I do (cue the most interesting man in the world), I use bolt-ons.
But longer studs may alleviate that problem. I haven't found a need yet so can't comment. Good studs are always a good idea (TWSS) and ARP makes the best, IMO.
Anything short of a 20mm spacer causes the OEM studs to protrude too far (go beyond the mounting surface of the spacer itself, and the NISMO LMGT5 wheel recesses cannot accommodate the studs. All Rays had to is design these recesses on the mounting face side to be an additional 1/8" more broad from the hub, and it would have worked.
I have taken MilVelo's advice and gone with 15mm spacers, but I'm going to have to modify the OEM studs in order to get it to work. I am going to grind about 1/4" down - and an 1/8" in - of the outbound-side of each wheel stud, in order for the modified studs to fit inside the wheel recesses.
Annoying.
Slip on spacers avoid this problem, but would have required removal of the hub and the addition of extended studs on the OEM hub. I added extended studs to the spacers, but only because I'm doing something I haven't seen before: adapting mag shank wheels (which the Nismo LMGT5 wheels are) for tuner/conical lug nuts. To do so, I used mag shank>conical adapters and studs that are 20mm longer than stock.
Anything short of a 20mm spacer causes the OEM studs to protrude too far (go beyond the mounting surface of the spacer itself, and the NISMO LMGT5 wheel recesses cannot accommodate the studs. All Rays had to is design these recesses on the mounting face side to be an additional 1/8" more broad from the hub, and it would have worked.
I have taken MilVelo's advice and gone with 15mm spacers, but I'm going to have to modify the OEM studs in order to get it to work. I am going to grind about 1/4" down - and an 1/8" in - of the outbound-side of each wheel stud, in order for the modified studs to fit inside the wheel recesses.
Annoying.
Slip on spacers avoid this problem, but would have required removal of the hub and the addition of extended studs on the OEM hub. I added extended studs to the spacers, but only because I'm doing something I haven't seen before: adapting mag shank wheels (which the Nismo LMGT5 wheels are) for tuner/conical lug nuts. To do so, I used mag shank>conical adapters and studs that are 20mm longer than stock.
I'm totally baffled by this "issue".... I have run my LMZ5s and mounted my LMGT5s with front spacers and never had an issue of the OE studs protruding through the spacers enough to interfere on the back side of the wheels.
And don't have a clue why you'd use or even what these "shank-to-conical adaptors" are. Are they shank inserts with a conical seat or something? If so, that seems like a lot (20) of extra loose pieces around.... What's wrong with Z34+ shank lugs??
EDIT: couldn't even find anything on the world's market, Fleabay - where all odd things can be found.
07-15-2015, 04:34 AM
