How To Maintain Your RAYS Wheels!
#181
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Alright guys...you're going to think this is a bit crazy/ballsy/stupid, but it worked out great.
I noticed there was a ton of small 0.5-2.0mm tar spots on the lips of my Limited CEs. Again these are bare machined aluminum lips with a top clear coat (NOT ANODIZED) and painted and cleared spokes. So I talked to a bunch of detailer friends I have across the country. All of them do very high end work and own their own detailing businesses (Ferrari's, Porsches, Lambos, concours events), basically not your average joe in a garage with some Meguiars and Turtle wax.
I asked them what they use/recommend for removing tar off clear coated surfaces. I received recommendations for two 'lower' end products (ie ones that I didn't have to order through them that cost 20-30 bucks).
1) Stoners Tarminator
2) 3M Adhesive Remover (automotive type, not for office work)
I picked up a can of Tarminator to try it out. I got like 10 q-tips and sprayed a little into a puddle on a curved piece of plastic. I put the tip in the line of fire so it got soaked and then swished it around in the formed puddle of tarminator. I found a tar spot and just let the tip rest on the spot for 10-15 sec (longer for some) and then turned the q-tip in my fingers and the tar spots came right off. I then immediately rinsed each spot with water and checked for any changes in clear coat color/hazing and etc.
No problems found. So I basically repeated this process for all the tar spots on my wheels. Aside from the true defects from rocks/etc causing physical defects in the clear layer, all the tar was removed in under 35 seconds of exposure to tarminator. Now all 360 degrees of my wheels are completely free of tar...no little black spots anywhere. Looks like new essentially and after some coats of sealant should shine like new too.
Note: I DID NOT / DID NOT NEED TO spray the tarminator directly on the wheel. Just apply through a q-tip as a solvent soak...takes the tar right off and you can rinse the excess from the area immediately. Worked very well with NO appreciable defects. Am I going to do this every wash? Hells no, but if you have a bunch of tar on your wheels from a season of driving, before you mount them up in spring, I think it's perfectly acceptable to do this if you have a layer of clear coat.
ANODIZED FINISH = be very careful and test on your own.
And as always with any type of solvent type cleaner work as efficiently as possible, pick small areas and remove the tar, then clean with water as quickly as you can to minimize exposure time and area.
I noticed there was a ton of small 0.5-2.0mm tar spots on the lips of my Limited CEs. Again these are bare machined aluminum lips with a top clear coat (NOT ANODIZED) and painted and cleared spokes. So I talked to a bunch of detailer friends I have across the country. All of them do very high end work and own their own detailing businesses (Ferrari's, Porsches, Lambos, concours events), basically not your average joe in a garage with some Meguiars and Turtle wax.
I asked them what they use/recommend for removing tar off clear coated surfaces. I received recommendations for two 'lower' end products (ie ones that I didn't have to order through them that cost 20-30 bucks).
1) Stoners Tarminator
2) 3M Adhesive Remover (automotive type, not for office work)
I picked up a can of Tarminator to try it out. I got like 10 q-tips and sprayed a little into a puddle on a curved piece of plastic. I put the tip in the line of fire so it got soaked and then swished it around in the formed puddle of tarminator. I found a tar spot and just let the tip rest on the spot for 10-15 sec (longer for some) and then turned the q-tip in my fingers and the tar spots came right off. I then immediately rinsed each spot with water and checked for any changes in clear coat color/hazing and etc.
No problems found. So I basically repeated this process for all the tar spots on my wheels. Aside from the true defects from rocks/etc causing physical defects in the clear layer, all the tar was removed in under 35 seconds of exposure to tarminator. Now all 360 degrees of my wheels are completely free of tar...no little black spots anywhere. Looks like new essentially and after some coats of sealant should shine like new too.
Note: I DID NOT / DID NOT NEED TO spray the tarminator directly on the wheel. Just apply through a q-tip as a solvent soak...takes the tar right off and you can rinse the excess from the area immediately. Worked very well with NO appreciable defects. Am I going to do this every wash? Hells no, but if you have a bunch of tar on your wheels from a season of driving, before you mount them up in spring, I think it's perfectly acceptable to do this if you have a layer of clear coat.
ANODIZED FINISH = be very careful and test on your own.
And as always with any type of solvent type cleaner work as efficiently as possible, pick small areas and remove the tar, then clean with water as quickly as you can to minimize exposure time and area.
Last edited by stradaONE8; 02-21-2010 at 08:40 AM.
#182
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Really confused here, when I put my new Volk GTS on, what is the best way to keep them good looking, besides water and car wash soap?
Am I understanding correctly that when you have Volks and leave your car outside in the rain the lips on your rims will have water spots galore? This just isn't adding up.
Is there one universal safe wax/detailer to use on Volk's to remove these spots?
Am I understanding correctly that when you have Volks and leave your car outside in the rain the lips on your rims will have water spots galore? This just isn't adding up.
Is there one universal safe wax/detailer to use on Volk's to remove these spots?
#183
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I have a set of work eurolines I just bought, Ive read this thread and am a little nervous now on cleaning them. I have some Meguiars Ultimate Quick Detailer.. from what I read am I correct in understanding that this will be safe to use on my wheels.. barrels and all?
#184
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Really confused here, when I put my new Volk GTS on, what is the best way to keep them good looking, besides water and car wash soap?
Am I understanding correctly that when you have Volks and leave your car outside in the rain the lips on your rims will have water spots galore? This just isn't adding up.
Is there one universal safe wax/detailer to use on Volk's to remove these spots?
Am I understanding correctly that when you have Volks and leave your car outside in the rain the lips on your rims will have water spots galore? This just isn't adding up.
Is there one universal safe wax/detailer to use on Volk's to remove these spots?
I usually don't let the wheels sit dirty for more than 5-6 days. I'll use the meguiars quick detailer on them and that does the trick. I throw a coat of wax on them on in the middle of the summer and then again when i take them off to store them for the winter.
#185
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i just bought a set of GT-C's from a friend and wanted to clean the inside barrels. theres all this brake dust build up on the inside...like its in the metal or somthing. i scrubbed and scrubbed and its still there. Any suggestions would help. i cant stand seeing a shiny face and lip and then noticing the dirty barrel behind the face. YUCKY
#186
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Has anyone tried original bike cleaner and polish (next dimension) on their Volks?
http://www.originalbikespirits.com/p...s.aspx?pid=667
It's supposedly the same formula/maker of the beloved, but discontinued "Honda Polish".
I have been using Motul wash and wax which works well, but am interested in the original bike cleaner and polish because in addition to cleaning, polishing, and protecting, it also has anti-static qualities which repel dust and also repels/beads water like wax (it's also a little cheaper than the Motul stuff and can still be found at most Honda/Acura dealerships--avoids shipping costs). The motul actually seems to attract some dust, not sure on whether it actually has anti-static properties or if it really repels water...
http://www.originalbikespirits.com/p...s.aspx?pid=667
It's supposedly the same formula/maker of the beloved, but discontinued "Honda Polish".
I have been using Motul wash and wax which works well, but am interested in the original bike cleaner and polish because in addition to cleaning, polishing, and protecting, it also has anti-static qualities which repel dust and also repels/beads water like wax (it's also a little cheaper than the Motul stuff and can still be found at most Honda/Acura dealerships--avoids shipping costs). The motul actually seems to attract some dust, not sure on whether it actually has anti-static properties or if it really repels water...
#187
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My te's somehow got splashed with water while they were sitting over the winter now two of them have bad white salty looking staing that didn't come off with wheel cleaner or wheel polish so I'm getting it detailed hopefully the detailer can get this out otherwise
I'm fu*ked. He's gonna charge me and arm and a leg though anybody have some solutions I can do myself? I'm guessing It needs a light polish like the body of my car? Powdercoating these isn't an option I wanna keep the original colour
I'm fu*ked. He's gonna charge me and arm and a leg though anybody have some solutions I can do myself? I'm guessing It needs a light polish like the body of my car? Powdercoating these isn't an option I wanna keep the original colour
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saywat? (07-21-2015)
#189
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Any recommendations for those of us who have had their wheels refinished? I am currently rocking some painted (matte black) Volk TE37's. For now I am about to do a thorough job with the soap and water but would like to use some specific products that will not damage the paint. At first I thought I could use Meguiar's Quick Detailer but that might smear/damage the paint. Thoughts or suggestions? Thanks in advance!
#190
I have the 2010 370z 19inch ("claws")rays sport wheels...hypersilver......they have acquired some black spots that look like paint except very smooth on the surface. Not sure how, but it is not road tar
Reminds me of the tarnish one gets on silver dining stuff, except the spots are very distinctive but one can not "feel" the spot at all, much like tarnish
I thought it might be some sort of paint or tar or black glue or???? ....has the clear coat finish been damaged and what is appearing is some sort of corrosion?
The spots are black, very distinctive as though spots of paint but very smooth and even with the surface.
Removal?
The other question is that these are the silver hyperfinish wheels. Can I clear coat these wheels as an extra layer of protection?
A few years ago, I clay-barred the hood of my 2000 pick up truck due to some scratches caused by my children (don't ask, but they managed to scrape the clear coat, but not the underlying paint).. After the clay bar, I then sprayed an over the counter clear coat over the affected area.
Keep the truck fairly clean and waxed. The hood looks better than the rest of the car, holds a shine better and so forth.
So the second question is, assuming the spots can easly be removed, can I clear coat the entire wheel as an extra layer of protection and then wax the wheel???
What product would be recommended???
Last edited by HVISONE; 06-13-2010 at 12:50 PM.
#191
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First question:
I have the 2010 370z 19inch ("claws")rays sport wheels...hypersilver......they have acquired some black spots that look like paint except very smooth on the surface. Not sure how, but it is not road tar
Reminds me of the tarnish one gets on silver dining stuff, except the spots are very distinctive but one can not "feel" the spot at all, much like tarnish
I thought it might be some sort of paint or tar or black glue or???? ....has the clear coat finish been damaged and what is appearing is some sort of corrosion?
The spots are black, very distinctive as though spots of paint but very smooth and even with the surface.
Removal?
The other question is that these are the silver hyperfinish wheels. Can I clear coat these wheels as an extra layer of protection?
A few years ago, I clay-barred the hood of my 2000 pick up truck due to some scratches caused by my children (don't ask, but they managed to scrape the clear coat, but not the underlying paint).. After the clay bar, I then sprayed an over the counter clear coat over the affected area.
Keep the truck fairly clean and waxed. The hood looks better than the rest of the car, holds a shine better and so forth.
So the second question is, assuming the spots can easly be removed, can I clear coat the entire wheel as an extra layer of protection and then wax the wheel???
What product would be recommended???
I have the 2010 370z 19inch ("claws")rays sport wheels...hypersilver......they have acquired some black spots that look like paint except very smooth on the surface. Not sure how, but it is not road tar
Reminds me of the tarnish one gets on silver dining stuff, except the spots are very distinctive but one can not "feel" the spot at all, much like tarnish
I thought it might be some sort of paint or tar or black glue or???? ....has the clear coat finish been damaged and what is appearing is some sort of corrosion?
The spots are black, very distinctive as though spots of paint but very smooth and even with the surface.
Removal?
The other question is that these are the silver hyperfinish wheels. Can I clear coat these wheels as an extra layer of protection?
A few years ago, I clay-barred the hood of my 2000 pick up truck due to some scratches caused by my children (don't ask, but they managed to scrape the clear coat, but not the underlying paint).. After the clay bar, I then sprayed an over the counter clear coat over the affected area.
Keep the truck fairly clean and waxed. The hood looks better than the rest of the car, holds a shine better and so forth.
So the second question is, assuming the spots can easly be removed, can I clear coat the entire wheel as an extra layer of protection and then wax the wheel???
What product would be recommended???
I'm not sure about re-clearing your wheels unless you really know what you're doing. I don't think it's necessary unless the clear has been stripped due to using an abrasive cleaner.
Also, check the Cleaning/detailing subforum for wheel wax.
#192
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Any recommendations for those of us who have had their wheels refinished? I am currently rocking some painted (matte black) Volk TE37's. For now I am about to do a thorough job with the soap and water but would like to use some specific products that will not damage the paint. At first I thought I could use Meguiar's Quick Detailer but that might smear/damage the paint. Thoughts or suggestions? Thanks in advance!
#193
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iTrader: (3)
First question:
I have the 2010 370z 19inch ("claws")rays sport wheels...hypersilver......they have acquired some black spots that look like paint except very smooth on the surface. Not sure how, but it is not road tar
Reminds me of the tarnish one gets on silver dining stuff, except the spots are very distinctive but one can not "feel" the spot at all, much like tarnish
I thought it might be some sort of paint or tar or black glue or???? ....has the clear coat finish been damaged and what is appearing is some sort of corrosion?
The spots are black, very distinctive as though spots of paint but very smooth and even with the surface.
Removal?
The other question is that these are the silver hyperfinish wheels. Can I clear coat these wheels as an extra layer of protection?
A few years ago, I clay-barred the hood of my 2000 pick up truck due to some scratches caused by my children (don't ask, but they managed to scrape the clear coat, but not the underlying paint).. After the clay bar, I then sprayed an over the counter clear coat over the affected area.
Keep the truck fairly clean and waxed. The hood looks better than the rest of the car, holds a shine better and so forth.
So the second question is, assuming the spots can easly be removed, can I clear coat the entire wheel as an extra layer of protection and then wax the wheel???
What product would be recommended???
I have the 2010 370z 19inch ("claws")rays sport wheels...hypersilver......they have acquired some black spots that look like paint except very smooth on the surface. Not sure how, but it is not road tar
Reminds me of the tarnish one gets on silver dining stuff, except the spots are very distinctive but one can not "feel" the spot at all, much like tarnish
I thought it might be some sort of paint or tar or black glue or???? ....has the clear coat finish been damaged and what is appearing is some sort of corrosion?
The spots are black, very distinctive as though spots of paint but very smooth and even with the surface.
Removal?
The other question is that these are the silver hyperfinish wheels. Can I clear coat these wheels as an extra layer of protection?
A few years ago, I clay-barred the hood of my 2000 pick up truck due to some scratches caused by my children (don't ask, but they managed to scrape the clear coat, but not the underlying paint).. After the clay bar, I then sprayed an over the counter clear coat over the affected area.
Keep the truck fairly clean and waxed. The hood looks better than the rest of the car, holds a shine better and so forth.
So the second question is, assuming the spots can easly be removed, can I clear coat the entire wheel as an extra layer of protection and then wax the wheel???
What product would be recommended???
It's likely that some sort of contaminent got on the surface and ate away at the clear coat. Could be anything from tire shine to harsh chemicals that shouldn't have gotten been near it (like at a car/detail shop).
I'm so much more carfeful with my Ce28n's tho, b/c it would be very hard if not impossible to duplicate the finish if they needed refinishing. I get no where near a curb and keep them washed, then application of motul wash n/ wax regularly. So far so good.
The finish on your OEM wheels shouldn't be too hard to replicate. G/L
Last edited by jonnylaw; 06-13-2010 at 04:27 PM.
#195
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looks like they changed the bon ami
http://www.bonami.com/index.php/prod...wder_cleanser/
Is it still safe for anodized aluminum aka my SF Challenges lip
http://www.bonami.com/index.php/prod...wder_cleanser/
Is it still safe for anodized aluminum aka my SF Challenges lip
#196
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Decals from Acromann to maintain rims.
Hello fellow enthusiasts,
I recently ordered Volk Time Attack decals from Acromann online.
Their website is
http://www.acromann.com/product_info.php?cPath=28_60&products_id=1964&osCsid=ff0ca30 222881d47c2dd084eb1726fe1
They are an online shop in Hong Kong. Their decals are beautiful.
They are real decals not stickers. The price was very reasonable. $39.95+shipping and handling.
The only downside is the delivery. It did take several weeks, but it was worth it.
Here are some pics.
Front wheel
Rear wheel
I hope this helps,
Lboy06.
I recently ordered Volk Time Attack decals from Acromann online.
Their website is
http://www.acromann.com/product_info.php?cPath=28_60&products_id=1964&osCsid=ff0ca30 222881d47c2dd084eb1726fe1
They are an online shop in Hong Kong. Their decals are beautiful.
They are real decals not stickers. The price was very reasonable. $39.95+shipping and handling.
The only downside is the delivery. It did take several weeks, but it was worth it.
Here are some pics.
Front wheel
Rear wheel
I hope this helps,
Lboy06.
#199
Registered User
I have the Volk SF gunmetal Challenge. Haven't been taking care of the rims, and finally washed the car after 3 months of no wash.
So now, I see little black dots from break dust that is etched within the chrome flat part of the rims (fronts). Not sure if I'm completely hosed, or if there are any chemicals that can take it out. The detailer tried a few things w/ no luck. I should've read this thread months ago
If not, I guess I can just powdercoat the whole rim gunmetal...
So now, I see little black dots from break dust that is etched within the chrome flat part of the rims (fronts). Not sure if I'm completely hosed, or if there are any chemicals that can take it out. The detailer tried a few things w/ no luck. I should've read this thread months ago
If not, I guess I can just powdercoat the whole rim gunmetal...
#200
hi. i recently purchased a used set of Volk GT-Vs, i've always thought that lips are polished so sometimes i would use the Mothers Metal Polish to keep them shiny. i read a few pages of this thread but never saw Mothers being mentioned. is it bad for the wheels? should i stop using it? TIA