How To Maintain Your RAYS Wheels!
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Originally Posted by redlude97
Andy, could we get a little clarification on what you posted?
For the 2 piece wheels, are you saying the removable center pieces are anodized and not powdercoated? Then coated with a clearcoat? Is the clearcoat a painted clearcoat or a powdercoated clearcoat?
On the barrels, you also said they were anodized, then clearcoated. Is the clearcoat paint or powdercoat?
It just seems unusual that Volk would use such a process when all other manufacturers clear anodize the lips of their wheels only without a clearcoat.
Do you have a source for your info?
For the 2 piece wheels, are you saying the removable center pieces are anodized and not powdercoated? Then coated with a clearcoat? Is the clearcoat a painted clearcoat or a powdercoated clearcoat?
On the barrels, you also said they were anodized, then clearcoated. Is the clearcoat paint or powdercoat?
It just seems unusual that Volk would use such a process when all other manufacturers clear anodize the lips of their wheels only without a clearcoat.
Do you have a source for your info?
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I wonder if Zoopseal would work on an anodized clearcoat. I know from experience, it works wonders on my old polished wheels. I think it would be a great way to keep these wheels clean. Anybody try this on these wheels?
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Originally Posted by Andy@Performance
The face on the 2 piece wheels vary and depends on the color. It is either painted and clear coated or powder coated and clear coated. The face is not anodized but has the same clear coat finish as the barrels. The barrels have no paint on them what so ever. A lot of wheel manufacturer's use a completely different process like HRE or iFORGED. I believe their barrels are completely polished if I'm not mistaken. My source comes directly from Mackin Industries and which their sources come directly from RAYS Japan.
Originally Posted by Andy@Performance
The finishes of the barrel's on all RAYS 2 piece wheels, I.E; VOLK, Gram Lights, Lexion, G-Games, etc, are all anodized with a finishing clear coat. If you have a matte or flat finish face, don't let this fool you because even the flat colors are clear coated as well. ..... Remember that both the face and the barrel is clear coated.
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Originally Posted by 07JimmyZ
I wonder if Zoopseal would work on an anodized clearcoat. I know from experience, it works wonders on my old polished wheels. I think it would be a great way to keep these wheels clean. Anybody try this on these wheels?
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Originally Posted by redlude97
So when you say clear coated, you are referring to the anodizing correct?
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Originally Posted by redlude97
No, zoopseal is meant for nonanodized bare aluminum wheels only.
What can I use Zoopseal on?
Aluminum, Raw Aluminum, Brass, Chromed Plating, Stainless Steel, Anodized Aluminum Parts, Stainless Steel in Restaurant Kitchens as long as the area is not in direct contact with food we are not FDA approved, Outside Furniture, Awnings, and Paint.
It still doesn't say anything about clear coating though.
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Originally Posted by NGZ
Hmmm... "treat them just like the paint on your car". I'm thinking of Zaino-ing my wheels now
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Originally Posted by 07JimmyZ
Well I still wasn't sure, so I checked. This come straight from the zoops website.
What can I use Zoopseal on?
Aluminum, Raw Aluminum, Brass, Chromed Plating, Stainless Steel, Anodized Aluminum Parts, Stainless Steel in Restaurant Kitchens as long as the area is not in direct contact with food we are not FDA approved, Outside Furniture, Awnings, and Paint.
It still doesn't say anything about clear coating though.
What can I use Zoopseal on?
Aluminum, Raw Aluminum, Brass, Chromed Plating, Stainless Steel, Anodized Aluminum Parts, Stainless Steel in Restaurant Kitchens as long as the area is not in direct contact with food we are not FDA approved, Outside Furniture, Awnings, and Paint.
It still doesn't say anything about clear coating though.
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Originally Posted by Andy@Performance
Yup, both the anodized barrel as well as the face; whether it is painted or powdercoated (dependent on color) are clear coated.
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Originally Posted by redlude97
Wait, so here is where your wording confuses me. The barrels are "clearcoated" by an anodizing process, while the faces are "clearcoated" with either paint or powdercoat, correct? So its not the same clearcoat on both surfaces
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Hey guys Andy had said that Ray's does not list colour codes for their wheels so I figured this my be useful. I have Gunmetal Volk GT-Cs and the gunmetal colour used is the same as Platinum on the Nissan Murano. I got a small chip and just went out with all the different touch up stick and found it match perfectly. The paint code is K36. Hope this helps.
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Great write-up, Andy!
I like to keep the water spots off my CE28N's. I use a leaf blower to blow the water off after I wash them. Then I wipe them down with a coat of Z-6.
If I have some extra time, I'll use wheelwax instead of the Zaino, but it takes a lot longer to put on wheelwax and buff it off.
I like to keep the water spots off my CE28N's. I use a leaf blower to blow the water off after I wash them. Then I wipe them down with a coat of Z-6.
If I have some extra time, I'll use wheelwax instead of the Zaino, but it takes a lot longer to put on wheelwax and buff it off.
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Great thread, as Andy I'm sure you've seen my post. For those who haven't, you can check out the post I made a few weeks ago. Essentially Nissan washed my car without asking and by the time I picked it up, the damage was already done. (Pics included).
https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-nissan-350z/292424-nissan-s-word-your-volks-could-be-the-cause-of-the-clicking-noise.html
I now have the wheels back from the shop, the spots are gone and from afar the wheels look flawless (I'll post up pics soon). However, because the shop had to buff out the spots, there are now swirl marks on the lips of the wheels. What I also noticed is the lips are more susceptible to scratches. Ie. I swiped my finger on a portion of it and it left a mark even after I tried to wipe it away.
The rims are shiny now but my concern is since they had to buff the wheel the original clear coat is gone and perhaps they just put on some kind of treatment to make it shiny for now but with time, it will go away ..leaving the lips vulnerable to the elements.
Prior to the damages, I used the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser which worked flawlessly. It easily wiped away all the grime and dirt without any pressure. Now, I'm noticing a lot more haze now vs before and they're more difficult to remove. But if anyone has any other ideas as to maintaining these polished wheels such as the Volks, let me know cuz these are not cheap and to order a new set takes months. Mine took 4 long months!!
https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-nissan-350z/292424-nissan-s-word-your-volks-could-be-the-cause-of-the-clicking-noise.html
I now have the wheels back from the shop, the spots are gone and from afar the wheels look flawless (I'll post up pics soon). However, because the shop had to buff out the spots, there are now swirl marks on the lips of the wheels. What I also noticed is the lips are more susceptible to scratches. Ie. I swiped my finger on a portion of it and it left a mark even after I tried to wipe it away.
The rims are shiny now but my concern is since they had to buff the wheel the original clear coat is gone and perhaps they just put on some kind of treatment to make it shiny for now but with time, it will go away ..leaving the lips vulnerable to the elements.
Prior to the damages, I used the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser which worked flawlessly. It easily wiped away all the grime and dirt without any pressure. Now, I'm noticing a lot more haze now vs before and they're more difficult to remove. But if anyone has any other ideas as to maintaining these polished wheels such as the Volks, let me know cuz these are not cheap and to order a new set takes months. Mine took 4 long months!!