FYI: Project Kics Spacers - Napa Replacement Studs
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FYI: Project Kics Spacers - Napa Replacement Studs
Hi,
I have project kic spacers and have already broken 2 studs. I just thought i would post the replacement studs i found to help the my350z community.
I found a NAPA and Autozone part number replacement studs that are holding up great so far.
The Z OEM studs are M12X1.25 with a 14mm knurl at the head
FRONT OR REAR: M12X1.25x42 (42 mm length) OEM F/R replacement -
NAPA P/N 641-3210 $1.74 each
AUTOZONE - 610-378.1 98353.1 if i remember right, about $1.80 each
PROJECT KICS SPACER STUDS:25 MM SPACER: (Spacer with studs)
M12X1.25X46 (46mm length) NAPA P/N 641-2786 $2.67 each - notice its 4mm longer is all!!!!
longer length is due to stud being pressed into a 25 mm thick spacer and needing more "shank/thread" length.
Replacing the broken stud is quite easy with even a small hobby shop press.
Also, due to the PKic's aluminum spacer I am certain you can use a big enough vise and some muscle power.
Harbor freight sells a small 6 ton shop press for about $39.99.
This one is one of their bigger 6 ton's:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=1666
A friend of mine just bought a smaller tonage one for only $39.99 the other day but i dont know the item number to that one. sorry........
Harbor freight: (ITEM 4711-7VGA - about $80 bucks - see pic)
**Im bumping the next two post so i can have edit capability to add pictures later.
- Jason
DFW PEEPS: I have the press and all to do this job - hit me up and we can knock it out if you guys need help with this. bring corona's! lol.
The following is to help trigger searches:
Wheel spacers, project kics spacers, wheel studs, Replacement studs, M12X1.25
M12X1.25X46, 46 mm length.
I have project kic spacers and have already broken 2 studs. I just thought i would post the replacement studs i found to help the my350z community.
I found a NAPA and Autozone part number replacement studs that are holding up great so far.
The Z OEM studs are M12X1.25 with a 14mm knurl at the head
FRONT OR REAR: M12X1.25x42 (42 mm length) OEM F/R replacement -
NAPA P/N 641-3210 $1.74 each
AUTOZONE - 610-378.1 98353.1 if i remember right, about $1.80 each
PROJECT KICS SPACER STUDS:25 MM SPACER: (Spacer with studs)
M12X1.25X46 (46mm length) NAPA P/N 641-2786 $2.67 each - notice its 4mm longer is all!!!!
longer length is due to stud being pressed into a 25 mm thick spacer and needing more "shank/thread" length.
Replacing the broken stud is quite easy with even a small hobby shop press.
Also, due to the PKic's aluminum spacer I am certain you can use a big enough vise and some muscle power.
Harbor freight sells a small 6 ton shop press for about $39.99.
This one is one of their bigger 6 ton's:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=1666
A friend of mine just bought a smaller tonage one for only $39.99 the other day but i dont know the item number to that one. sorry........
Harbor freight: (ITEM 4711-7VGA - about $80 bucks - see pic)
**Im bumping the next two post so i can have edit capability to add pictures later.
- Jason
DFW PEEPS: I have the press and all to do this job - hit me up and we can knock it out if you guys need help with this. bring corona's! lol.
The following is to help trigger searches:
Wheel spacers, project kics spacers, wheel studs, Replacement studs, M12X1.25
M12X1.25X46, 46 mm length.
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 12-23-2010 at 06:45 AM. Reason: FYI
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Pics
Here Are Pics Of The Broken Stud Still In The Oem Lug Nut And The Napa Replacement Stud Listed Above.
- J
- J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 03-19-2008 at 06:04 AM.
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HF press and Alternate options:
More Pics. Harbor frieght: (ITEM 4711-7VGA - about $80 bucks)
Alternate option #1:
With the pic shown, you are still essentially pressing the stud in from the head side..........see that? so essentially its like using a press.....of course this is quite hard, you need a vise to hold in place and obviously a large socket that fits inside the stud with out the stud bottoming out on the c clamp as it tightens up..
Alternate option #2:
Use a Vice only instead of a C clamp like Alternate option #1 - but its all about lining up well...
Alternate option #3:
Kinda like method 3 i talk about on post #10
which is STEP 11 of the thread:
https://my350z.com/forum/body-interi...e-of-pics.html
I must also like to add - this was brought up in the "official wheel spacer thread"
You can get away with out using a "press" if you do the "6 ~ each washer/pull through" method.
Thats not the proper and intended way to do the job.....ie - pressing in from the head side with a press is the "correct" way....
The way you can also do it -- "WASHER/PULL THROUGH" method, you are pulling the stud through the spacer using a few Washers from home depot/lowes, etc and with a sacrificial nut, you simply tighten the nut pulling the stud through......
HOWEVER:
This method is putting a lot of stress on the stud "threads".......you could pull/damage the threads when tightening it up that much....sometimes its just one thread thats cracks at the thread valley groove, and you don't know it till the next time you do a wheel change and you find that that "Replaced" stud gets cross threaded or something..
HOWEVER/also....when replacing a stud using the "WASHER/PULL THROUGH" method in a SPACER you can get lucky doing it that way since the spacer itself is softer ALUMINUM and the splines from the stud neck most likely line up or match from the previous stud lines/neck that was originally in the spacer........
So if i was to do the washers/pull through method i would do it on a spacer if i had to over a hub anyday......so you may be fine... just be mindful of which studs you replaced as time goes on......and keep an eye on it...
-J
Alternate option #1:
With the pic shown, you are still essentially pressing the stud in from the head side..........see that? so essentially its like using a press.....of course this is quite hard, you need a vise to hold in place and obviously a large socket that fits inside the stud with out the stud bottoming out on the c clamp as it tightens up..
Alternate option #2:
Use a Vice only instead of a C clamp like Alternate option #1 - but its all about lining up well...
Alternate option #3:
Kinda like method 3 i talk about on post #10
which is STEP 11 of the thread:
https://my350z.com/forum/body-interi...e-of-pics.html
I must also like to add - this was brought up in the "official wheel spacer thread"
You can get away with out using a "press" if you do the "6 ~ each washer/pull through" method.
Thats not the proper and intended way to do the job.....ie - pressing in from the head side with a press is the "correct" way....
The way you can also do it -- "WASHER/PULL THROUGH" method, you are pulling the stud through the spacer using a few Washers from home depot/lowes, etc and with a sacrificial nut, you simply tighten the nut pulling the stud through......
HOWEVER:
This method is putting a lot of stress on the stud "threads".......you could pull/damage the threads when tightening it up that much....sometimes its just one thread thats cracks at the thread valley groove, and you don't know it till the next time you do a wheel change and you find that that "Replaced" stud gets cross threaded or something..
HOWEVER/also....when replacing a stud using the "WASHER/PULL THROUGH" method in a SPACER you can get lucky doing it that way since the spacer itself is softer ALUMINUM and the splines from the stud neck most likely line up or match from the previous stud lines/neck that was originally in the spacer........
So if i was to do the washers/pull through method i would do it on a spacer if i had to over a hub anyday......so you may be fine... just be mindful of which studs you replaced as time goes on......and keep an eye on it...
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 04-12-2010 at 10:25 AM.
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i believe so, it was the tire shop that changed my tires out for me... they used the air impact to install them.
a bit later i go to take them off and the lug nuts free up then after a few turns they get tight again???? i kept going with it and got a few really hard turns out of it and then snap!
- Jason
a bit later i go to take them off and the lug nuts free up then after a few turns they get tight again???? i kept going with it and got a few really hard turns out of it and then snap!
- Jason
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U need to take the broken stud out of the spacer! using a vise or a press and then go back to NAPA and have them look one up for you!
start with the part numbers i gave on post 1. take the entire spacer with you because you are going to want to measure the length of a non-broken stud.
- J
start with the part numbers i gave on post 1. take the entire spacer with you because you are going to want to measure the length of a non-broken stud.
- J
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Originally Posted by JSia
i cant remove the broken stud out of the spacer help =[
A local tire shop also might have a shop press.
where in TX are you???
Harbor frieght sells shop presses: (ITEM 4711-7VGA - about $80 bucks - see pic)
This one is one of their bigger 6 ton's. A friend of mine just bought a small 6ton for only $39.99 the other day but i dont know the item number to that one. sorry........
like i said, ive done it before with a Big Vise and some muscle power too...
- Jason
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 03-19-2008 at 09:37 AM.
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Originally Posted by lgear080
jason - YOU'RE THE MAN.
Mostly bc I can't search on my own and have to ask
questions which smart people like you answered 6
months ago. Thanks for your help.
Mostly bc I can't search on my own and have to ask
questions which smart people like you answered 6
months ago. Thanks for your help.
i too went through the pain of having to figure this junk out.....so i share...lol
-j