The Top 100 Common Questions
08-17-2006, 03:12 PM
#21
Q: Which rims come standard on which trim 350Z?
A:
2003-2005 models:
2003-2005 Base Model: 17" cast rims all around
2003-2005 Enthusiast: 17"
2003-2005 Performance: 18" cast rims all around (Different than 2006 model rims)
2003-2005 Touring (Automatic): 17"
2003-2005 Touring (6-spd Manual): 18" (Different than 2006 model rims)
2003-2005 Track: 18" Rays Forged Rims (Different than 2006 model rims)
2005 35th Anniversary Edition: 18" cast rims all around (Same or similar as 2006 model rims)
2006 models:
2006 Base Model: 18" cast rims all around
2006 Enthusiast: 18"
2006 Touring: 18"
2006 Track: 18" Front and 19" Rear RAYS Lightweight Forged Rims
2006 Grand Touring: 18" Front and 19" Rear RAYS Lightweight Forged Rims
2007 models:
2007 Base, Enthusiast, Touring: 18" cast rims all around
2007 Grand Touring & Nismo: 18" Front and 19" Rear RAYS Lightweight Forged Rims
2008 models:
2008 Base, Enthusiast, Touring: 18" cast rims all around
2008 Grand Touring & Nismo: 18" Front and 19" Rear RAYS Lightweight Forged Rims
A:
2003-2005 models:
2003-2005 Base Model: 17" cast rims all around
2003-2005 Enthusiast: 17"
2003-2005 Performance: 18" cast rims all around (Different than 2006 model rims)
2003-2005 Touring (Automatic): 17"
2003-2005 Touring (6-spd Manual): 18" (Different than 2006 model rims)
2003-2005 Track: 18" Rays Forged Rims (Different than 2006 model rims)
2005 35th Anniversary Edition: 18" cast rims all around (Same or similar as 2006 model rims)
2006 models:
2006 Base Model: 18" cast rims all around
2006 Enthusiast: 18"
2006 Touring: 18"
2006 Track: 18" Front and 19" Rear RAYS Lightweight Forged Rims
2006 Grand Touring: 18" Front and 19" Rear RAYS Lightweight Forged Rims
2007 models:
2007 Base, Enthusiast, Touring: 18" cast rims all around
2007 Grand Touring & Nismo: 18" Front and 19" Rear RAYS Lightweight Forged Rims
2008 models:
2008 Base, Enthusiast, Touring: 18" cast rims all around
2008 Grand Touring & Nismo: 18" Front and 19" Rear RAYS Lightweight Forged Rims
Last edited by DavesZ#3; 09-24-2009 at 06:41 PM.
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bugsmoran21 (06-12-2022)
08-17-2006, 03:21 PM
#22
Q: What is a normal oil pressure?? My oil pressure is going crazy high!
A: The key here is that it does not get too low. When you first start the car, i.e. a cold start, your oil pressure may be as high as 100 psi. When your oil warms up, the viscosity drops, and the pressure will be lower. Please see the owner's manual for normal oil pressure range.
Rules of thumb:
At COLD idle/on cold starts, your oil pressure should be about 40-90 psi.
At normal operating temperature idle, your oil pressure should be about 15-30 psi. (If your idle has been raised it may read a little higher. If you are running without your A/C it will read a little lower. These are just ballpark numbers.)
Don't redline the car or drive hard until the oil warms up and the oil pressure at idle drops. At high RPM the pressure may go off the scale. That is OK as long as the car is warmed up.
Note: it takes longer for your oil to warm up than it takes for your coolant to warm up. Don't go by the temperature gauge on the dash board to determine if the car is 100% warmed up...
If you think you're having oil pressure issues, first get an oil change and see if the pressure goes to the normal range. Using different viscosities of oil will result in slightly different pressure behavior. The recommended oil for your car is 5W-30 (usual choice, good for winter), 10W-30 (also typical choice, good for summer), and 10W-40 (usually used only for extremely high temperature conditions). If you go too long without an oil change, your oil can start to exhibit viscous breakdown, and your oil pressure may drop below normal.
Oil pressure and oil level are NOT THE SAME. Low pressure does not necessarily mean low oil. But low pressure DOES mean you should probably change the oil.
If the oil change does not solve your pressure problems, there could be a problem with your oil pressure sensor. Damage to this sensor CAN occur if a mechanic is careless underneath your car.
A: The key here is that it does not get too low. When you first start the car, i.e. a cold start, your oil pressure may be as high as 100 psi. When your oil warms up, the viscosity drops, and the pressure will be lower. Please see the owner's manual for normal oil pressure range.
Rules of thumb:
At COLD idle/on cold starts, your oil pressure should be about 40-90 psi.
At normal operating temperature idle, your oil pressure should be about 15-30 psi. (If your idle has been raised it may read a little higher. If you are running without your A/C it will read a little lower. These are just ballpark numbers.)
Don't redline the car or drive hard until the oil warms up and the oil pressure at idle drops. At high RPM the pressure may go off the scale. That is OK as long as the car is warmed up.
Note: it takes longer for your oil to warm up than it takes for your coolant to warm up. Don't go by the temperature gauge on the dash board to determine if the car is 100% warmed up...
If you think you're having oil pressure issues, first get an oil change and see if the pressure goes to the normal range. Using different viscosities of oil will result in slightly different pressure behavior. The recommended oil for your car is 5W-30 (usual choice, good for winter), 10W-30 (also typical choice, good for summer), and 10W-40 (usually used only for extremely high temperature conditions). If you go too long without an oil change, your oil can start to exhibit viscous breakdown, and your oil pressure may drop below normal.
Oil pressure and oil level are NOT THE SAME. Low pressure does not necessarily mean low oil. But low pressure DOES mean you should probably change the oil.
If the oil change does not solve your pressure problems, there could be a problem with your oil pressure sensor. Damage to this sensor CAN occur if a mechanic is careless underneath your car.
Last edited by Wired 24/7; 08-21-2006 at 02:43 PM.
08-17-2006, 04:03 PM
#23
Q: What kind of oil should I use? What brand of oil and filter is recommended?
A: The owner's manual suggests using "dino oil", that is, non-synthetic. Your engine takes 5 quarts of oil when you change the filter (and you should always change the filter with the oil). Recommended oil change intervals are 3750 miles. Try to stick to this, or keep it under 4k miles at least. There is not much benefit to changing your oil more often, unless you track your car or put it under extreme conditions frequently.
Some owners have reported excess loss of oil using synthetic such as mobil1. If you are not sure what to use, stick with regular old dino oil.
There is more misinformation about motor oil floating around than just about any other topic. For excellent and honest oil information, search these forums: http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi
[A short anecdote]
For example, some people STILL seem to think Pennzoil is a known "sludge maker" due to its paraffin (wax) content. Similar comments have been construed about Quaker State. Some people claim you could not PAY them to put pennzoil in their engine. Some even have called Pennzoil "Pennzsludge Beeswax" or some other clever
variation. In reality, IIRC, all motor oils (at least dino oil?) are paraffin based. Paraffin, when warm, is a liquid. You couldn't get wax to form sludge in your engine if you tried. Sludge does not come from wax. Sludge does not come from pennzoil. Period.
[/A short anecdote]
From my experience in reading up on the above mentioned forums, here is the general consensus on motor oil:
Almost any dino oil is about the same. (Anyone who disputes this fact has clearly not read up enough to know what they are talking about.) Motor oil undergoes rigorous testing and quality control. Make sure it is API "SM" and GF-4 rated for top quality. You will find almost all brands of oil are SM/GF-4 rated... Pennzoil, Havoline, Valvoline, Quaker State, Castrol GTX. If you are going with dino oil, you should feel free to buy the cheapest SM & GF-4 oil you can find. There is no benefit to being loyal to a brand (many brands are manufactured by the same parent company). There is also no harm in switching between brands. The only advantage to picking one brand over the other is their slightly different "additive packages" in their oil. For example Havoline has a higher molybdenum content, which is due to MoS2 (molybdenum sulfide) which is a good high-temperature lubricant. This makes Havoline a popular dino oil brand for those "in the know," but in reality, any SM/GF-4 dino oil will be fine to keep your engine running smooth. Me? I have used Pennzoil 5W-30 with no ill effects. I have also used Havoline, worked just fine. I am now using Motul 300V synthetic.
As far as filters go, mobil1, K&N, Wix, Napa Brand, Nissan OEM, Purolator should all be fine. Stay away from FRAM. There is sufficient data to support that FRAM sucks. I personally use the K&N HP-1008 filter, available from performance nissan. Don't forget to change that copper crush washer on the drain plug!
Also the general consensus is that if you want to switch to synthetic, do so well after break-in, or when about 10k-15k miles are on your car.
Remember, oil related failures are VERY rare. So, go with what you like! But please stick to the manufacturer's recommended viscosities: 5W-30, 10W-30, 10W-40.
Q: I just want to use the BEST OIL AVAILABLE. PERIOD.
A: Motul 300V. Knock yourself out. I use it and so should you. Yes, this is a full synthetic. It also has tons of MoS2 which is an excellent high temperature high pressure lubricant. Great quality stuff, used in Forged Performance's engine builds and I'm sure others as well.
http://www.mynismo.com/products/?id=4032
A: The owner's manual suggests using "dino oil", that is, non-synthetic. Your engine takes 5 quarts of oil when you change the filter (and you should always change the filter with the oil). Recommended oil change intervals are 3750 miles. Try to stick to this, or keep it under 4k miles at least. There is not much benefit to changing your oil more often, unless you track your car or put it under extreme conditions frequently.
Some owners have reported excess loss of oil using synthetic such as mobil1. If you are not sure what to use, stick with regular old dino oil.
There is more misinformation about motor oil floating around than just about any other topic. For excellent and honest oil information, search these forums: http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi
[A short anecdote]
For example, some people STILL seem to think Pennzoil is a known "sludge maker" due to its paraffin (wax) content. Similar comments have been construed about Quaker State. Some people claim you could not PAY them to put pennzoil in their engine. Some even have called Pennzoil "Pennzsludge Beeswax" or some other clever
variation. In reality, IIRC, all motor oils (at least dino oil?) are paraffin based. Paraffin, when warm, is a liquid. You couldn't get wax to form sludge in your engine if you tried. Sludge does not come from wax. Sludge does not come from pennzoil. Period.[/A short anecdote]
From my experience in reading up on the above mentioned forums, here is the general consensus on motor oil:
Almost any dino oil is about the same. (Anyone who disputes this fact has clearly not read up enough to know what they are talking about.) Motor oil undergoes rigorous testing and quality control. Make sure it is API "SM" and GF-4 rated for top quality. You will find almost all brands of oil are SM/GF-4 rated... Pennzoil, Havoline, Valvoline, Quaker State, Castrol GTX. If you are going with dino oil, you should feel free to buy the cheapest SM & GF-4 oil you can find. There is no benefit to being loyal to a brand (many brands are manufactured by the same parent company). There is also no harm in switching between brands. The only advantage to picking one brand over the other is their slightly different "additive packages" in their oil. For example Havoline has a higher molybdenum content, which is due to MoS2 (molybdenum sulfide) which is a good high-temperature lubricant. This makes Havoline a popular dino oil brand for those "in the know," but in reality, any SM/GF-4 dino oil will be fine to keep your engine running smooth. Me? I have used Pennzoil 5W-30 with no ill effects. I have also used Havoline, worked just fine. I am now using Motul 300V synthetic.
As far as filters go, mobil1, K&N, Wix, Napa Brand, Nissan OEM, Purolator should all be fine. Stay away from FRAM. There is sufficient data to support that FRAM sucks. I personally use the K&N HP-1008 filter, available from performance nissan. Don't forget to change that copper crush washer on the drain plug!
Also the general consensus is that if you want to switch to synthetic, do so well after break-in, or when about 10k-15k miles are on your car.
Remember, oil related failures are VERY rare. So, go with what you like! But please stick to the manufacturer's recommended viscosities: 5W-30, 10W-30, 10W-40.
Q: I just want to use the BEST OIL AVAILABLE. PERIOD.
A: Motul 300V. Knock yourself out. I use it and so should you. Yes, this is a full synthetic. It also has tons of MoS2 which is an excellent high temperature high pressure lubricant. Great quality stuff, used in Forged Performance's engine builds and I'm sure others as well.
http://www.mynismo.com/products/?id=4032
Last edited by Wired 24/7; 12-13-2007 at 01:08 PM.
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curlytop62 (09-09-2022)
08-23-2006, 01:32 PM
#24
Q: Help! I was going 50-80+ mph and the car just died when I put it in neutral!
A: This problem is more common to those who have installed a JWT Popcharger, or some other aftermarket intake. In my mind, what's happening is the MAF is getting confused due to you having a closed throttle but it still detects some airflow, due to the air being swirled around in the intake tube while driving at high speeds. This confuses the ECU and it might cut fuel or something, causing the engine to stall.
The best solution is to stop putting your car in neutral at high speeds. Potentially, an ECU reset may be in order and this will help some people. However, it is better to improve driving practices by leaving the car in gear until you're almost at a stop. There is no practical reason that I can think of why you should put your car in neutral at a high speed.
Finally, you may wish to increase your idle RPM. This can be done (on some models) with the tool called "cipher" from AAM (google: altered atmosphere cipher), or some dealers may do it for you with their OBDII tool. Increasing idle slightly may help with those who have stalling issues or don't like the "rough idle" commonly complained about on the 350Z.
Some people have suggested a possible fix for this: clean your throttle body using carburetor cleaner. Whether this works or not is still not 100% proven, but a few people swear by it.
A: This problem is more common to those who have installed a JWT Popcharger, or some other aftermarket intake. In my mind, what's happening is the MAF is getting confused due to you having a closed throttle but it still detects some airflow, due to the air being swirled around in the intake tube while driving at high speeds. This confuses the ECU and it might cut fuel or something, causing the engine to stall.
The best solution is to stop putting your car in neutral at high speeds. Potentially, an ECU reset may be in order and this will help some people. However, it is better to improve driving practices by leaving the car in gear until you're almost at a stop. There is no practical reason that I can think of why you should put your car in neutral at a high speed.
Finally, you may wish to increase your idle RPM. This can be done (on some models) with the tool called "cipher" from AAM (google: altered atmosphere cipher), or some dealers may do it for you with their OBDII tool. Increasing idle slightly may help with those who have stalling issues or don't like the "rough idle" commonly complained about on the 350Z.
Some people have suggested a possible fix for this: clean your throttle body using carburetor cleaner. Whether this works or not is still not 100% proven, but a few people swear by it.
Last edited by Wired 24/7; 04-29-2007 at 11:06 PM.
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bugsmoran21 (06-12-2022)
09-16-2006, 08:39 PM
#25
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Why Fairlady?
Fair Lady and later Fairlady - The name given to the first line of sports cars designed and built by Nissan Motors Japan after W.W.II, with the specific intent of being marketed in the USA - 1960.
The name "Fair Lady" was given to the new sports car line by Mr. Katsuji Kawamata, President Of Nissan Motors Japan, after he attended the Broadway Musical "My Fair Lady" while visiting the US in 1958. He felt that the name would invoke an image of beauty for the car - because people would think of the beauty of the music and the leading lady in that Broadway Musical.
This is a common and accepted practice within the Japanese culture for selecting automotive names. It is not a usual cultural method here in the US however - so Nissan more commonly used engine size and model numbers as Model Names for the US market.
The name "Fair Lady" was given to the new sports car line by Mr. Katsuji Kawamata, President Of Nissan Motors Japan, after he attended the Broadway Musical "My Fair Lady" while visiting the US in 1958. He felt that the name would invoke an image of beauty for the car - because people would think of the beauty of the music and the leading lady in that Broadway Musical.
This is a common and accepted practice within the Japanese culture for selecting automotive names. It is not a usual cultural method here in the US however - so Nissan more commonly used engine size and model numbers as Model Names for the US market.
09-28-2006, 10:11 AM
#26
Q: What are test pipes?
A: Test pipes are straight-tube replacement pipes for your catalytic converters. Removing your cats is usually against the law, but that doesn't mean you will get "caught" necessarily. Test pipes will add a significant amount of horsepower by removing the restriction in your cats. They will also make your car sound MUCH louder.
RESONATED test pipes are just regular old test pipes with some kind of resonating chamber which helps remove that "RASP" sound from your exhaust. The resonator does not have any performance benefit.
Obviously, when you remove the cats, your car will no longer have any way to prevent releasing air pollution (NOx, carbon monoxide, unburned hydrocarbons). If you want the performance upgrade but are still somewhat concerned for the environment, go with HIGH FLOW CATS. (e.g. Kinetix, Ultimate Racing, Berk Technology, Fast Intentions). These will reduce pollution (although, not as well as your stock cats) but even HFC's are still not usually legal. HFCs have been shown to provide similar gains to test pipes.
Q: Will TEST PIPES give me a check engine light / SES light? What can I do about this?
A: Yes, in general test pipes make the car think the catalytic converters are not working properly. You will most likely get a check engine light (although some 2003's have been shown not to get the CEL).
You can do this trick to try to eliminate the CEL. It seems to work for most people. Link here:
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-drivetrain-and-forced-induction-diy/194001-test-pipe-ses-non-fouler-fix-pics.html
Q: Will RESONATED TEST PIPES give me a check engine light / SES light? What can I do about this?
A: Same story as non-resonated test pipes.
Q: Will HIGH FLOW CATS give me a check engine light / SES light? What can I do about this?
A: Not if they are working properly. If they give you a CEL (you must confirm that the CEL is due to the cats), call the manufacturer and tell them you MAY have a defective product.
Q: How can I check / confirm what my check engine light / SES light means?
A: Go to autozone, or a typical car parts store. They have OBDII (on board diagnostics II) scanners that can tell you exactly what the light means. It should be free to check the meaning of the light.
Q: How can I erase the CEL after I have fixed the problem?
A: Read here
http://www.technosquareinc.com/350reset.htm
Note, this will not "RESET THE ECU's FUEL MAPS" this will only delete CEL/SES light. IF YOU ARE HAVING TROUBLE, YOUR TIMING IS OFF. THIS WORKS, TRUST ME, YOU CAN DO IT.
Q: How can I FULLY reset the ECU?
A: Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery overnight, before reconnecting, pump the brakes a few times to ensure all capacitors etc. are drained.
FULLY resetting the ECU will also delete CEL lights, just like the "pedal method reset" as shown in the link above.
A: Test pipes are straight-tube replacement pipes for your catalytic converters. Removing your cats is usually against the law, but that doesn't mean you will get "caught" necessarily. Test pipes will add a significant amount of horsepower by removing the restriction in your cats. They will also make your car sound MUCH louder.
RESONATED test pipes are just regular old test pipes with some kind of resonating chamber which helps remove that "RASP" sound from your exhaust. The resonator does not have any performance benefit.
Obviously, when you remove the cats, your car will no longer have any way to prevent releasing air pollution (NOx, carbon monoxide, unburned hydrocarbons). If you want the performance upgrade but are still somewhat concerned for the environment, go with HIGH FLOW CATS. (e.g. Kinetix, Ultimate Racing, Berk Technology, Fast Intentions). These will reduce pollution (although, not as well as your stock cats) but even HFC's are still not usually legal. HFCs have been shown to provide similar gains to test pipes.
Q: Will TEST PIPES give me a check engine light / SES light? What can I do about this?
A: Yes, in general test pipes make the car think the catalytic converters are not working properly. You will most likely get a check engine light (although some 2003's have been shown not to get the CEL).
You can do this trick to try to eliminate the CEL. It seems to work for most people. Link here:
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-drivetrain-and-forced-induction-diy/194001-test-pipe-ses-non-fouler-fix-pics.html
Q: Will RESONATED TEST PIPES give me a check engine light / SES light? What can I do about this?
A: Same story as non-resonated test pipes.
Q: Will HIGH FLOW CATS give me a check engine light / SES light? What can I do about this?
A: Not if they are working properly. If they give you a CEL (you must confirm that the CEL is due to the cats), call the manufacturer and tell them you MAY have a defective product.
Q: How can I check / confirm what my check engine light / SES light means?
A: Go to autozone, or a typical car parts store. They have OBDII (on board diagnostics II) scanners that can tell you exactly what the light means. It should be free to check the meaning of the light.
Q: How can I erase the CEL after I have fixed the problem?
A: Read here
http://www.technosquareinc.com/350reset.htm
Note, this will not "RESET THE ECU's FUEL MAPS" this will only delete CEL/SES light. IF YOU ARE HAVING TROUBLE, YOUR TIMING IS OFF. THIS WORKS, TRUST ME, YOU CAN DO IT.
Q: How can I FULLY reset the ECU?
A: Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery overnight, before reconnecting, pump the brakes a few times to ensure all capacitors etc. are drained.
FULLY resetting the ECU will also delete CEL lights, just like the "pedal method reset" as shown in the link above.
Last edited by Wired 24/7; 12-13-2007 at 01:01 PM.
09-28-2006, 11:57 PM
#27
Q: Will mods void my warranty?
A: A dealership cannot "void the warranty on the whole car" just because you have a JWT popcharger or aftermarket wheels. If they are trying to deny warranty service, they must prove that the mod caused the problem.
Of course, adding a turbo kit (for example) can put a lot of stress on the engine itself, as well as to the drivetrain. Don't be surprised if the dealer refuses to perform warranty service on a heavily modified car, that's just common sense.
This is all part of the "Magnuson-Moss" Warranty Act, which protects consumers against shady business practice by:
(In short, if they try to void your warranty and your mod could not have caused the problem, sue the bastards...)
More info can be found here
http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/...s/warranty.htm
THAT SAID, if your mod *did* cause the problem, then it's your problem and you have to deal with it.
A: A dealership cannot "void the warranty on the whole car" just because you have a JWT popcharger or aftermarket wheels. If they are trying to deny warranty service, they must prove that the mod caused the problem.
Of course, adding a turbo kit (for example) can put a lot of stress on the engine itself, as well as to the drivetrain. Don't be surprised if the dealer refuses to perform warranty service on a heavily modified car, that's just common sense.
This is all part of the "Magnuson-Moss" Warranty Act, which protects consumers against shady business practice by:
The Act makes it easier for purchasers to sue for breach of warranty by making breach of warranty a violation of federal law, and by allowing consumers to recover court costs and reasonable attorneys' fees.
More info can be found here
http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/...s/warranty.htm
THAT SAID, if your mod *did* cause the problem, then it's your problem and you have to deal with it.
Last edited by Wired 24/7; 09-29-2006 at 12:21 AM.
10-01-2006, 02:11 AM
#28
Q: I'm thinking about going Turbo / Supercharged. What setup is the safest and most reliable? What do I need to make my setup safe?
A: First of all, going with F/I is hands down the most extreme modification you can do to your car.
ANYTIME you increase the output of a motor, you put more stress and strain on its internals and parts. This is a FACT of LIFE and there are limits to the metals in your rods, pistons, etc, no matter "how good" or "how safe" your tuning is. It doesn't matter "how safe" your kit is, as (IIRC) every turbo and supercharger kit has, at one time or another, blown a motor.
If you are "going F/I" you need to have a backup plan. First of all, your car can be in the shop for months if you are going for a built motor setup. Installation can and will run several thousands of dollars. Only a handful of talented individuals have installed their own turbo kits, and very few if any people have built their own motor.
Building up your motor with upgraded crank, rods, pistons, headgasket, (there's much more to it, but these are just examples) is one of the first steps to making your setup more reliable and more safe. Not to mention, the stock fuel system is not equipped to deal with high HP numbers.
Other parts that can help are oil coolers and bigger radiators are popular additions, as are oil catch cans, water/methanol injection (to reduce cylinder temps), one step colder spark plugs, HKS DLI II and much much more.
Blown motors DO happen, and generally most people don't get much advanced warning that it's going to happen. This is an unfortunate circumstance of the stock internals and block not being designed to handle high levels of power.
Can you put a F/I kit on a stock motor? Yes. Have people done it, and have their engines survived for a long time? Yes. But some people's motors have blown, and the cause is NOT necessarily a "bad tune."
You should be prepared for the worst if you are boosting your stock motor.
Remember, you can get money for a USEABLE engine block, in a core exchange program. But if you blow a hole through your block, kiss your core refund goodbye.
Question 2: But wait, what if I just run lower boost, with a very conservative tune...will my setup be safe and reliable ??
Answer: Some people have suggested doing this, but HARDLY ANYONE has ever done it. Most if not ALL people who have suggested "running lower boost with a very conservative tune" have chickened out of getting a turbo kit in the first place. Plus, it will most likely not even be worth the money, trouble, and effort. The person who asks this question is not prepared to accept the worst case scenario of a blown motor.
But if you want to do this, go right ahead and show everyone how reliable your setup is.
Q: OK I'm mentally prepared for the worst. I am going to get a built motor, my favorite turbo kit, several parts to enhance performance and safety, and I have tons of money to spend. What now?
A: Break out your checkbook (financing a turbo kit = not a great idea) and start PM'ing or calling engine builders who will usually have most of the parts you will need anyway, so this is a good place to start asking questions if you are SERIOUS. Make sure you know well beforehand who your pro F/I tuner is going to be, and call ahead to make sure they have time to tune your car. They can clue you in as to which engine management systems they like to work with, what has worked for them, and what would work best for your needs.
If you love the 350Z and you have lots of money (Don't be surprised if your project starts approaching over $20,000) and you want more power, this is the way to go.
Just make sure you are within a comfortable limit of legality with your car. For example, california people may wish to stick with vortech or stillen superchargers, which are CARB approved.
Finally, USE THE SEARCH FUNCTION in the forced induction forum. People have been boosting the 350Z for a long time now, there is a TON of great info in the F/I forum. Do NOT disrupt the forum by asking a stupid question that can be answered with searching. If search isn't working out for you, manually browse through old threads. There is MORE to the F/I forum than "page 1."
Q: How much power have people pushed on a Turbo / SC / TT setup before their stock motor blew up? Who is still running strong on with F/I on a stock motor?
A:
Check out these threads:
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-induction/273792-stock-motor-with-forced-induction-how-badly-did-you-push-it.html
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-induction/343019-stock-motors-w-f-i.html
A: First of all, going with F/I is hands down the most extreme modification you can do to your car.
ANYTIME you increase the output of a motor, you put more stress and strain on its internals and parts. This is a FACT of LIFE and there are limits to the metals in your rods, pistons, etc, no matter "how good" or "how safe" your tuning is. It doesn't matter "how safe" your kit is, as (IIRC) every turbo and supercharger kit has, at one time or another, blown a motor.
If you are "going F/I" you need to have a backup plan. First of all, your car can be in the shop for months if you are going for a built motor setup. Installation can and will run several thousands of dollars. Only a handful of talented individuals have installed their own turbo kits, and very few if any people have built their own motor.
Building up your motor with upgraded crank, rods, pistons, headgasket, (there's much more to it, but these are just examples) is one of the first steps to making your setup more reliable and more safe. Not to mention, the stock fuel system is not equipped to deal with high HP numbers.
Other parts that can help are oil coolers and bigger radiators are popular additions, as are oil catch cans, water/methanol injection (to reduce cylinder temps), one step colder spark plugs, HKS DLI II and much much more.
Blown motors DO happen, and generally most people don't get much advanced warning that it's going to happen. This is an unfortunate circumstance of the stock internals and block not being designed to handle high levels of power.
Can you put a F/I kit on a stock motor? Yes. Have people done it, and have their engines survived for a long time? Yes. But some people's motors have blown, and the cause is NOT necessarily a "bad tune."
You should be prepared for the worst if you are boosting your stock motor.
Remember, you can get money for a USEABLE engine block, in a core exchange program. But if you blow a hole through your block, kiss your core refund goodbye.
Question 2: But wait, what if I just run lower boost, with a very conservative tune...will my setup be safe and reliable ??
Answer: Some people have suggested doing this, but HARDLY ANYONE has ever done it. Most if not ALL people who have suggested "running lower boost with a very conservative tune" have chickened out of getting a turbo kit in the first place. Plus, it will most likely not even be worth the money, trouble, and effort. The person who asks this question is not prepared to accept the worst case scenario of a blown motor.
But if you want to do this, go right ahead and show everyone how reliable your setup is.
Q: OK I'm mentally prepared for the worst. I am going to get a built motor, my favorite turbo kit, several parts to enhance performance and safety, and I have tons of money to spend. What now?
A: Break out your checkbook (financing a turbo kit = not a great idea) and start PM'ing or calling engine builders who will usually have most of the parts you will need anyway, so this is a good place to start asking questions if you are SERIOUS. Make sure you know well beforehand who your pro F/I tuner is going to be, and call ahead to make sure they have time to tune your car. They can clue you in as to which engine management systems they like to work with, what has worked for them, and what would work best for your needs.
If you love the 350Z and you have lots of money (Don't be surprised if your project starts approaching over $20,000) and you want more power, this is the way to go.
Just make sure you are within a comfortable limit of legality with your car. For example, california people may wish to stick with vortech or stillen superchargers, which are CARB approved.
Finally, USE THE SEARCH FUNCTION in the forced induction forum. People have been boosting the 350Z for a long time now, there is a TON of great info in the F/I forum. Do NOT disrupt the forum by asking a stupid question that can be answered with searching. If search isn't working out for you, manually browse through old threads. There is MORE to the F/I forum than "page 1."
Q: How much power have people pushed on a Turbo / SC / TT setup before their stock motor blew up? Who is still running strong on with F/I on a stock motor?
A:
Check out these threads:
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-induction/273792-stock-motor-with-forced-induction-how-badly-did-you-push-it.html
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-induction/343019-stock-motors-w-f-i.html
Last edited by Wired 24/7; 03-18-2008 at 09:42 PM.
10-24-2006, 02:41 PM
#29
Q: How much will my insurance cost? How much are you paying for insurance, I want to compare to see if I'm paying a fair price?
Please don't ask that question. Ever. It is the most useless question that can be asked on this or any other automotive forum. Why? What you, I and anybody else pays is dependent on several factors: who your insurer is, where you live, how old you are, how many accidents/tickets you've had, what kind of discounts you get from your ins. company, how many cars and drivers in your family, etc.
As you can see, unless somebody is in exactly the same socio-economic situation as you are, they won't be paying the same for insurance. The only way to get a decent idea of what you'll pay is to call your current insurance agent or visit their website.
Q: What do you pay monthly on your Z?
Again, don't ask it. It's the second most useless question. How much you pay is related to the cars selling price, how large of a downpayment is applied, how high is the interest rate on the loan, etc.
Again, no two situations will be the same. Once you have an idea of the bottom line cost, check one of the online loan site like Eloan, BankRate, etc.
Please don't ask that question. Ever. It is the most useless question that can be asked on this or any other automotive forum. Why? What you, I and anybody else pays is dependent on several factors: who your insurer is, where you live, how old you are, how many accidents/tickets you've had, what kind of discounts you get from your ins. company, how many cars and drivers in your family, etc.
As you can see, unless somebody is in exactly the same socio-economic situation as you are, they won't be paying the same for insurance. The only way to get a decent idea of what you'll pay is to call your current insurance agent or visit their website.
Q: What do you pay monthly on your Z?
Again, don't ask it. It's the second most useless question. How much you pay is related to the cars selling price, how large of a downpayment is applied, how high is the interest rate on the loan, etc.
Again, no two situations will be the same. Once you have an idea of the bottom line cost, check one of the online loan site like Eloan, BankRate, etc.
Last edited by DavesZ#3; 10-24-2006 at 03:35 PM.
01-25-2007, 06:30 PM
#30
I'm thinking about putting my Z on a diet, how much do all these parts weigh?
stock hatch: 77 lbs
hatch counterweight 2.5 lb
rear wiper and motor: 9 lbs
stock hood: 24 lbs
stock fenders: around 7.7 lbs each
headlight: 15 lbs each
interior
rear mat: 6 lbs
sound dampening "pads" in that space behind seats: about 5 lbs
shift ****: about 206 grams
leather heated seats: 50 lbs each
fabric seats: 37 lbs each
spare, jack, and tools: 40 lbs
headunit and speakers: about 7 lbs together
steel plate + bolts for subwoofer: about 5 lbs
suspension
stock sways: front 10.5 lbs and rear 4 lbs
stock spring and shock assembly: 10 lbs each
stock battery: 36 lbs
Standard Brakes
296x24mm Front Disc = 16.2 lbs
Single Piston Front Caliper = 12.2 lbs
292x15mm Rear Disc = 11.9 lbs
Single Piston Rear Caliper = 6.0 lbs
Track Model Brembos
324x30mm Front Disc = 20.0 lbs
4-Piston Front Caliper = 9.5 lbs
322x22mm Rear Disc = 17.6 lbs
2-Piston Rear Caliper = 4.3 lbs
fluids
full tank of gas: 6.5 lbs x 17 gallons = 110.5 lbs
full tank of washer fluid: 8 lbs
exhaust
plastic intake manifold: 4 lbs
stock headers: 15.4 lbs
rear muffler: 34 lbs
mid pipe: 12 lbs
y-pipe: 16 lbs
catalytic converters: 23 lbs each
wheels
(depending upon air pressure, almost any nissan tire + rim combo will be around 40-60 lbs each)
17" base rims F: 17x7.5 = 23.26 lbs and R: 17x8.0 = 24.140 lbs
18" track rims F: 18x8.0 = 18.1 lbs and R: 18x8.5 = 18.62 lbs
18" perf/touring rims F: 18x8.0 = 27 lbs and R: = 18x8.0 = 27 lbs
18" LMGT rims F: 18x8.5 = 18.3 lbs and R: 18x9.5 = 18.8 lbs
19" LMGT rims F: 19 x 8.5 = and R: 19x9.5 = around 22 lbs
all 20 lug nuts: 2.6 lbs
drivetrain
stock clutch weight: 22.19 lbs
stock flywheel weight: 23 lbs
crank pulley: 6 lbs
I spent some time compiling this and double checked many numbers from various threads and sites, mods (or anyone else) that feel revisions are necessary post them up.
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 06-15-2012 at 04:00 AM.
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04-29-2007, 11:18 PM
#31
Q: Are any new mods out for the 07 350Z?? INTAKE, HEADERS, PLENUM SPACER, TURBO KIT, etc? Can I get dual popchargers?
A:
Most everything you need to know about the 07's / VQ35HR's are in this thread:
https://my350z.com/forum/vq35hr/314637-please-read-this-before-asking-a-question-in-here.html
And for more information check the VQ35HR forum!
https://my350z.com/forum/vq35hr-479/
Q: What mods from 03-06 will work on an 07 350Z?
A: CAT-BACK Exhaust (no test pipes/HFC though), wheels, suspension, brakes, certain body kit components...
Q: Can I swap a VQ35HR into my 03-06 350Z?
A: It might be possible, but there is no good reason to do it. Much effort will be needed to get the ECU and wiring harnesses swapped and working. No one has attempted this yet. The primary reason: for the price, you are better off trading in your current model Z for the 07. Or better yet, beef up your current 350Z with a built motor and F/I.
Q: Will going F/I be safe / safer on the 07 350z?
A: The answer is PROBABLY.
Sharif @ Forged Performance has repeatedly said that the VQ35HR looks beefed up for F/I. That said, the VQ35HR also has higher compression pistons, which are a step in the wrong direction for F/I. Nevertheless, stronger internals are what counts, and the VQ35HR definitely brings us some reassurance in that department.
Q: Are there any F/I kits (turbo or supercharger) for the 2007 350Z yet?
A: No!
There are no supercharger/turbo kits available for the 07 350Z. So you'll just have to wait it out.
GT Motorsports seems to have had an FI kit on a HR motor at this year's SEMA. So my guess is there will be something soon!
A:
Most everything you need to know about the 07's / VQ35HR's are in this thread:
https://my350z.com/forum/vq35hr/314637-please-read-this-before-asking-a-question-in-here.html
And for more information check the VQ35HR forum!
https://my350z.com/forum/vq35hr-479/
Q: What mods from 03-06 will work on an 07 350Z?
A: CAT-BACK Exhaust (no test pipes/HFC though), wheels, suspension, brakes, certain body kit components...
Q: Can I swap a VQ35HR into my 03-06 350Z?
A: It might be possible, but there is no good reason to do it. Much effort will be needed to get the ECU and wiring harnesses swapped and working. No one has attempted this yet. The primary reason: for the price, you are better off trading in your current model Z for the 07. Or better yet, beef up your current 350Z with a built motor and F/I.
Q: Will going F/I be safe / safer on the 07 350z?
A: The answer is PROBABLY.
Sharif @ Forged Performance has repeatedly said that the VQ35HR looks beefed up for F/I. That said, the VQ35HR also has higher compression pistons, which are a step in the wrong direction for F/I. Nevertheless, stronger internals are what counts, and the VQ35HR definitely brings us some reassurance in that department. Q: Are there any F/I kits (turbo or supercharger) for the 2007 350Z yet?
A: No!
There are no supercharger/turbo kits available for the 07 350Z. So you'll just have to wait it out.
GT Motorsports seems to have had an FI kit on a HR motor at this year's SEMA. So my guess is there will be something soon!
Last edited by Wired 24/7; 11-29-2007 at 05:06 PM.
05-06-2007, 04:19 PM
#32
How to tell the difference between models
Q: How can I tell the difference between the models of the 350Z?
A: The information below was derived from this thread https://my350z.com/forum/buying-leasing/269606-easy-way-to-tell-differences-in-350z-models.html , started by The Brickyard Rat. I have to credit him, Voboy and JDMFairladyZ33 for providing the majority of the info. I have verified it against the Sales brochures and specs for each of the model years and believe it to be true, complete and accurate. Note that this info is not 100% accurate for the Roadsters. They have their own set of exceptions to a lot of these rules.
Base: no cruise control or radio buttons on steering wheel. MT only. 17" Wheels. No HID headlights (03-05). No autodimming rear-view mirror.
Enthusiast: TCS button on lower dash below steering wheel, cloth seats but no heater switches for seats. AT or MT. 17" wheels.
Performance: VDC button on lower dash, cloth seats but no heater switches or Brembo brakes. MT only. Available 03-05.
Touring: Leather seats. Heater buttons on center console. Heated seats and outside mirrors. Bose stereo system. VDC button on lower dash. AT or MT. 17" wheels on AT, 18" on MT.
Track: Brembo brakes and VDC button. Rear spoiler, underbody air diffusers. MT only. 18" Rays Forged Wheels. Available 03-06.
Grand Touring Leather seats. BOSE stereo. Brembos brakes. VDC button on lower dash.
A: The information below was derived from this thread https://my350z.com/forum/buying-leasing/269606-easy-way-to-tell-differences-in-350z-models.html , started by The Brickyard Rat. I have to credit him, Voboy and JDMFairladyZ33 for providing the majority of the info. I have verified it against the Sales brochures and specs for each of the model years and believe it to be true, complete and accurate. Note that this info is not 100% accurate for the Roadsters. They have their own set of exceptions to a lot of these rules.
Base: no cruise control or radio buttons on steering wheel. MT only. 17" Wheels. No HID headlights (03-05). No autodimming rear-view mirror.
Enthusiast: TCS button on lower dash below steering wheel, cloth seats but no heater switches for seats. AT or MT. 17" wheels.
Performance: VDC button on lower dash, cloth seats but no heater switches or Brembo brakes. MT only. Available 03-05.
Touring: Leather seats. Heater buttons on center console. Heated seats and outside mirrors. Bose stereo system. VDC button on lower dash. AT or MT. 17" wheels on AT, 18" on MT.
Track: Brembo brakes and VDC button. Rear spoiler, underbody air diffusers. MT only. 18" Rays Forged Wheels. Available 03-06.
Grand Touring Leather seats. BOSE stereo. Brembos brakes. VDC button on lower dash.
05-06-2007, 07:26 PM
#33
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Q. Can we run spacers on stock 06 rims?
Yes, you can run up to 25mm spacers on all around. It will clear even though it is dropped with springs. (not sure about coilovers yet, but probably)
Yes, you can run up to 25mm spacers on all around. It will clear even though it is dropped with springs. (not sure about coilovers yet, but probably)
05-17-2007, 05:50 PM
#34
Q: Does my exhaust need some backpressure to work properly or make more power in a N/A application?
A: HELL NO!! This is a myth. High exhaust velocity is good, backpressure is bad. The way to achieve high exhaust velocity is by picking the correct sized exhaust for N/A. If your exhaust is too small, it will create backpressure. If your exhaust is too big, the exhaust gas velocity will be too slow. That is why people do not drive around with 4" exhausts for N/A.
Q: What about turbo applications?
A: Turbo is a different story. You want the maximum difference in pressure before and after the turbine to maximize turbine efficiency. That means a huge exhaust is a good thing in turbo applications.
Q: What about supercharged applications?
A: In supercharged applications, you don't need to worry about pressure differential across the turbine, since the turbine is not in the exhaust stream. Therefore, N/A exhaust design criteria should be very similar to S/C exhaust designs.
A: HELL NO!! This is a myth. High exhaust velocity is good, backpressure is bad. The way to achieve high exhaust velocity is by picking the correct sized exhaust for N/A. If your exhaust is too small, it will create backpressure. If your exhaust is too big, the exhaust gas velocity will be too slow. That is why people do not drive around with 4" exhausts for N/A.
Q: What about turbo applications?
A: Turbo is a different story. You want the maximum difference in pressure before and after the turbine to maximize turbine efficiency. That means a huge exhaust is a good thing in turbo applications.
Q: What about supercharged applications?
A: In supercharged applications, you don't need to worry about pressure differential across the turbine, since the turbine is not in the exhaust stream. Therefore, N/A exhaust design criteria should be very similar to S/C exhaust designs.
05-18-2007, 06:50 PM
#35
Tire Pressure Sensors (TPS, TPMS, etc.)
Q: How does the system work?
A: Each wheel has a sensor that is part of the valve stem in the wheel. The sensor transmits the tire's pressure. To conserve battery power, a centrifugal switch turns the sensor on when the car starts moving faster than 20 mph. There is an antenna in the "A" pillar that picks up the signal from each sensor. The computer in the car displays the pressure on the multi-display (2006 and earlier) and handles the low pressure warning when the tire pressure drops below a pre-set value.
Q: I'm buying some new wheels. What do I need to do to keep the Tire Pressure Monitoring System working properly?
A: You need to get the sensors moved from your old wheels to your new wheels. It won't require re-programming if you take care to move the sensors to the same position on the car that they came from. That is, FL to FL, FR to FR, RL to RL and finally RR to RR. You have to have the tires dismounted from the old wheels to get the sensors out of them. Then install them on the new wheels before mounting the new tires. (Note: for 2007+, there's no need to keep the sensors on the same locations as there is no long a pressure display to worry about.)
Q: Can I buy a second set of sensors for my other wheels and get both to work on my car?
Q: One of my sensors died. I got a replacment installed by it's still not displaying a pressure.
A: Each sensor has a unique ID number. It transmits that ID along with the pressure reading. The car's computer uses that ID to tell which wheel's pressure it's reading. The computer only recognizes the four IDs associated with the car. If you get new sensors, a dealer must "re-program" the car to recognize the ID from that new sensor.
Q: Will the sensors fit this wheel?
A: It depends. They fit on forged or cast one-piece wheels in which the valve stem is aligned in a similar fashion (angled) as the OEM wheels.
They usually don't fit multipiece wheels or wheels where the stem is perpendicular to the wheel barrel.
They definitely fit:
18" & 19" OEM wheels
Nismo LMGT4
Volk LE/TE37, CE28N. They will fit the Volk GTS but sensor must point "up" toward tire.
PIAA Rozza (adapter available from Z1 Performance)
They can be made to fit almost any other wheels with the "banding" method, described in these three threads:
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-suspension-diy/186197-how-to-make-your-own-aps-tire-bands.html
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-suspension-diy/30147-designed-a-way-to-mount-tire-pressure-sensor-to-any-wheel.html
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...s-sensors.html
Q: I bought aftermarket wheels and didn't move the TPMS sensors to the new wheels. What's up with the warning light (!).
A: After about 30 minutes of continual driving, if the system doesn't detect a signal from the four sensors, the warning will beep and the dash light (!) will illuminate. You CAN'T disable the warning or the light. Neither Nissan or any shop can disable it (it illegal if they do it).
Q: How can I make the warning light go away?
A: Install the sensors in the new wheels. See question above.
Q: I bought a (2003,2004) base model Z. Can I buy sensors or wheels from another model and put them on my car?
A: Yes you can but they won't show the pressure on the multi-function display (triple-meter) or warn you when the pressure is too low. Your car doesn't have the antenna to pick up the signals from the sensors and your computer isn't setup to display them.
Q: It got cold last night and this morning, the Low Pressure Warning came on after I started driving. The display shows the pressure at 27 psi. I usually keep my pressure at 30psi.
A: The normal pressure for the OEM Z tires/wheels is 35 psi. The warning goes off when the pressure drops about 25% below normal, which is about 26-27 psi.
Q: I'm getting new tires on my Z, do I need to do anything to the TPMS sensors? Do they need recalibration?
A: No, there's nothing that needs to be done. The sensors are mounted to the wheels, not the tires.
Q: I have a 2007 (and later) 350Z and I can't find the tire pressure display in the triple-meter.
A: Sadly, that feature is no longer available to you. Starting in 2007, the individual pressures are no longer displayed. All you get is the low pressure warning from the system.
Q: I have two sets of wheels and sensors, can I reset the sensors myself?
A: Yes, there is now a tool your can buy that allows you to do it. ATEQ TPMS Quickset tool http://www.ateq-tpmsreset.com/
There are also a couple of threads on newly discovered DIY methods.
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ring-tpms.html
http://g35driver.com/forums/wheels-t...ial-tools.html
A: Each wheel has a sensor that is part of the valve stem in the wheel. The sensor transmits the tire's pressure. To conserve battery power, a centrifugal switch turns the sensor on when the car starts moving faster than 20 mph. There is an antenna in the "A" pillar that picks up the signal from each sensor. The computer in the car displays the pressure on the multi-display (2006 and earlier) and handles the low pressure warning when the tire pressure drops below a pre-set value.
Q: I'm buying some new wheels. What do I need to do to keep the Tire Pressure Monitoring System working properly?
A: You need to get the sensors moved from your old wheels to your new wheels. It won't require re-programming if you take care to move the sensors to the same position on the car that they came from. That is, FL to FL, FR to FR, RL to RL and finally RR to RR. You have to have the tires dismounted from the old wheels to get the sensors out of them. Then install them on the new wheels before mounting the new tires. (Note: for 2007+, there's no need to keep the sensors on the same locations as there is no long a pressure display to worry about.)
Q: Can I buy a second set of sensors for my other wheels and get both to work on my car?
Q: One of my sensors died. I got a replacment installed by it's still not displaying a pressure.
A: Each sensor has a unique ID number. It transmits that ID along with the pressure reading. The car's computer uses that ID to tell which wheel's pressure it's reading. The computer only recognizes the four IDs associated with the car. If you get new sensors, a dealer must "re-program" the car to recognize the ID from that new sensor.
Q: Will the sensors fit this wheel?
A: It depends. They fit on forged or cast one-piece wheels in which the valve stem is aligned in a similar fashion (angled) as the OEM wheels.
They usually don't fit multipiece wheels or wheels where the stem is perpendicular to the wheel barrel.
They definitely fit:
18" & 19" OEM wheels
Nismo LMGT4
Volk LE/TE37, CE28N. They will fit the Volk GTS but sensor must point "up" toward tire.
PIAA Rozza (adapter available from Z1 Performance)
They can be made to fit almost any other wheels with the "banding" method, described in these three threads:
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-suspension-diy/186197-how-to-make-your-own-aps-tire-bands.html
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-suspension-diy/30147-designed-a-way-to-mount-tire-pressure-sensor-to-any-wheel.html
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...s-sensors.html
Q: I bought aftermarket wheels and didn't move the TPMS sensors to the new wheels. What's up with the warning light (!).
A: After about 30 minutes of continual driving, if the system doesn't detect a signal from the four sensors, the warning will beep and the dash light (!) will illuminate. You CAN'T disable the warning or the light. Neither Nissan or any shop can disable it (it illegal if they do it).
Q: How can I make the warning light go away?
A: Install the sensors in the new wheels. See question above.
Q: I bought a (2003,2004) base model Z. Can I buy sensors or wheels from another model and put them on my car?
A: Yes you can but they won't show the pressure on the multi-function display (triple-meter) or warn you when the pressure is too low. Your car doesn't have the antenna to pick up the signals from the sensors and your computer isn't setup to display them.
Q: It got cold last night and this morning, the Low Pressure Warning came on after I started driving. The display shows the pressure at 27 psi. I usually keep my pressure at 30psi.
A: The normal pressure for the OEM Z tires/wheels is 35 psi. The warning goes off when the pressure drops about 25% below normal, which is about 26-27 psi.
Q: I'm getting new tires on my Z, do I need to do anything to the TPMS sensors? Do they need recalibration?
A: No, there's nothing that needs to be done. The sensors are mounted to the wheels, not the tires.
Q: I have a 2007 (and later) 350Z and I can't find the tire pressure display in the triple-meter.
A: Sadly, that feature is no longer available to you. Starting in 2007, the individual pressures are no longer displayed. All you get is the low pressure warning from the system.
Q: I have two sets of wheels and sensors, can I reset the sensors myself?
A: Yes, there is now a tool your can buy that allows you to do it. ATEQ TPMS Quickset tool http://www.ateq-tpmsreset.com/
There are also a couple of threads on newly discovered DIY methods.
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ring-tpms.html
http://g35driver.com/forums/wheels-t...ial-tools.html
Last edited by DavesZ#3; 06-10-2011 at 03:49 PM.
05-22-2007, 06:59 PM
#36
Q: I installed an intake (popcharger, CAI, intake tube, etc) and I hear a whistling sound. Is that normal?
A:
Yes, totally normal when any kind of aftermarket intake is installed.
In fact, the sound was always there, you just couldn't hear it with your stock intake.
A:
Yes, totally normal when any kind of aftermarket intake is installed.
In fact, the sound was always there, you just couldn't hear it with your stock intake.
10-02-2007, 06:01 AM
#37
Registered User
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Q: What is the best looking wheel for my 350z?
A: This is a personal choice question and what may look good to one person may look like crap to another. Best bet would be to look at the pictures posted here and make up your own mind. Be sure to also browse through the offsets and sizes as well to ensure you are getting a wheel that fits.
Edit: You can also start your search here: https://my350z.com/forum/wheels-and-tires/254081-wheel-thread-index.html
A: This is a personal choice question and what may look good to one person may look like crap to another. Best bet would be to look at the pictures posted here and make up your own mind. Be sure to also browse through the offsets and sizes as well to ensure you are getting a wheel that fits.
Edit: You can also start your search here: https://my350z.com/forum/wheels-and-tires/254081-wheel-thread-index.html
Last edited by DavesZ#3; 10-10-2007 at 04:35 PM.
11-29-2007, 05:11 PM
#38
Q: My clutch pedal SINKS TO THE FLOOR on my 07 / VQ35HR!! The dealer is giving me the runaround!! What do I do?
A:
This issue seems to have a solution now:
https://my350z.com/forum/vq35hr/328151-recall-on-slave-cylinder.html
You may file a complaint HERE, but since there is a recall you might not need to:
https://my350z.com/forum/vq35hr/316071-make-an-official-complaint-to-the-nhtsa-07-clutch-issue.html
A:
This issue seems to have a solution now:
https://my350z.com/forum/vq35hr/328151-recall-on-slave-cylinder.html
You may file a complaint HERE, but since there is a recall you might not need to:
https://my350z.com/forum/vq35hr/316071-make-an-official-complaint-to-the-nhtsa-07-clutch-issue.html
Last edited by Wired 24/7; 03-14-2008 at 03:49 PM.
12-18-2007, 02:33 PM
#39
Q: I got a check engine light and it says theres a problem on (Bank 1 or bank 2). Which side is bank 1 and which side is bank 2?
A: Bank 1 is the passenger side and Bank 2 is the driver's side (US vehicles).
For future reference, the side with cylinder #1 is always "Bank 1". (Thanks DraGonAlchemist)
A: Bank 1 is the passenger side and Bank 2 is the driver's side (US vehicles).
For future reference, the side with cylinder #1 is always "Bank 1". (Thanks DraGonAlchemist)
Last edited by Wired 24/7; 03-14-2008 at 03:50 PM.
12-28-2007, 11:58 AM
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Q: Will stalling out numerous times in a short amount period give me a "Check Engine" light?
A: Don't ask me how I know, but yes. If you stall it many times in a row with a MT, the light will click on. Instead of dropping $100 on getting a diagnostic, disconnect the positive battery cable, click on the headlights to remove any electricity from the charging system, and then reconnect the battery. This will reset the computer, the light will go off, and unless something else is wrong with the car, the light will not come on again. I think that process is universal for all cars, and it has worked so far.""""""""""""
!!!!!wait wait. .dont try and do that if you ever go for an inspection OBDII style . .because even though you disconnect the battery. .your vehicles computer will save the code as pending in the back round even though your engine light has gone off. .and will only return IF the problem occurs again. .but if you go for an inspection the OBDII will pick that code up and if you either live in CALI or East coast sections. .NY NJ. .you'll end up failing. . .Local AUTOZONE's reset engine lights for FREE!!!
A: Don't ask me how I know, but yes. If you stall it many times in a row with a MT, the light will click on. Instead of dropping $100 on getting a diagnostic, disconnect the positive battery cable, click on the headlights to remove any electricity from the charging system, and then reconnect the battery. This will reset the computer, the light will go off, and unless something else is wrong with the car, the light will not come on again. I think that process is universal for all cars, and it has worked so far.""""""""""""
!!!!!wait wait. .dont try and do that if you ever go for an inspection OBDII style . .because even though you disconnect the battery. .your vehicles computer will save the code as pending in the back round even though your engine light has gone off. .and will only return IF the problem occurs again. .but if you go for an inspection the OBDII will pick that code up and if you either live in CALI or East coast sections. .NY NJ. .you'll end up failing. . .Local AUTOZONE's reset engine lights for FREE!!!
Last edited by DavesZ#3; 01-05-2008 at 10:35 AM.