The Top 100 Common Questions
01-05-2008, 07:35 AM
#41
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Q: How can I open the trunk from Inside the car?
A: There is a small cord that goes under the Strut braces on the rear. if you pull that cord it will pop the trunk.
[Note: That's an emergency release that isn't readily accessable from the front seats ]
A: There is a small cord that goes under the Strut braces on the rear. if you pull that cord it will pop the trunk.
[Note: That's an emergency release that isn't readily accessable from the front seats ]
Last edited by DavesZ#3; 01-05-2008 at 10:35 AM.
01-05-2008, 10:34 AM
#42
Also.. Q: What size tires should I buy?
Q: The "Slip" light come on randomly, especially in turns, even though my tires aren't slipping. What's up with that?
A: Both the Traction Control System (TCS) and Vehicle Dynamic Control (VDC) can cause the "slip" light to come on. There are a couple of things that can make it come on even though you don't feel/hear your tires slipping.
The most common cause for this behavior is replacement of the OEM tires with a different size. All Zs come with staggered tires, that is to say the fronts are a little shorter than the rears. This causes the tires to rotate at different rates which TCS and VDC depends on for normal operation. If you install tire combinations that don't maintain that stagger, it can cause problems for TCS/VDC resulting in the "slip" light illuminating.
The stock tire sizes and Outside Diameters are:
225/50/17 25.9"
235/50/17 26.3" (0.4" stagger)
225/45/18 25.9"
245/45/18 26.7" (0.8" stagger)
245/40/18 25.7"
265/35/19 26.3" (0.6" stagger)
265/40/18 26.3"
285/35/19 26.9" (0.6" stagger)
When choosing new tires, try to find front/rear pairs that maintain the stagger of at least ½" and less than 1". You should also look for front/rear setups that maintain the same OD as that will keep your speedometer and odometer accurate.
Here are the most common "upsized" tire combinations. These are known to work and keep TCS/VDC happy.
245/40/18 25.7"
275/40/18 26.6" (0.9" stagger)
245/35/19 25.8"
275/35/19 26.6" (0.8" stagger)
255/35/19 26"
285/35/19 26.9" (0.9" stagger)
245/30/20 25.8"
275/30/20 26.5" (0.7" stagger)
Check the manufacturer's website to find the Outside Diameter of tires before you buy them, or use one of the online tire calculators:
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
http://www.wheelsmaster.com/rt_specs.jsp
A less common cause for the "slip" light to illuminate comes from replacing the fronts or rears only. If you replace only the fronts or rears, the stagger may not be what you think it is because the other worn pair is actually up to ½" smaller than they were when new.
New tires also come with a release agent on the surface of the rubber that must be worn off. That makes them slick and can result in your tires actually slipping, hence the "slip" light.
NOTE: The slip light does and will come on during "normal" driving that is unrelated to tire size or wear. If you apply too much throttle when launching or going around a turn, the wheels will slip and cause the light to illuminate. Also, driving on slick road surfaces (water, oil, rocks) can also cause your tires to slip.
A: Both the Traction Control System (TCS) and Vehicle Dynamic Control (VDC) can cause the "slip" light to come on. There are a couple of things that can make it come on even though you don't feel/hear your tires slipping.
The most common cause for this behavior is replacement of the OEM tires with a different size. All Zs come with staggered tires, that is to say the fronts are a little shorter than the rears. This causes the tires to rotate at different rates which TCS and VDC depends on for normal operation. If you install tire combinations that don't maintain that stagger, it can cause problems for TCS/VDC resulting in the "slip" light illuminating.
The stock tire sizes and Outside Diameters are:
225/50/17 25.9"
235/50/17 26.3" (0.4" stagger)
225/45/18 25.9"
245/45/18 26.7" (0.8" stagger)
245/40/18 25.7"
265/35/19 26.3" (0.6" stagger)
265/40/18 26.3"
285/35/19 26.9" (0.6" stagger)
When choosing new tires, try to find front/rear pairs that maintain the stagger of at least ½" and less than 1". You should also look for front/rear setups that maintain the same OD as that will keep your speedometer and odometer accurate.
Here are the most common "upsized" tire combinations. These are known to work and keep TCS/VDC happy.
245/40/18 25.7"
275/40/18 26.6" (0.9" stagger)
245/35/19 25.8"
275/35/19 26.6" (0.8" stagger)
255/35/19 26"
285/35/19 26.9" (0.9" stagger)
245/30/20 25.8"
275/30/20 26.5" (0.7" stagger)
Check the manufacturer's website to find the Outside Diameter of tires before you buy them, or use one of the online tire calculators:
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
http://www.wheelsmaster.com/rt_specs.jsp
A less common cause for the "slip" light to illuminate comes from replacing the fronts or rears only. If you replace only the fronts or rears, the stagger may not be what you think it is because the other worn pair is actually up to ½" smaller than they were when new.
New tires also come with a release agent on the surface of the rubber that must be worn off. That makes them slick and can result in your tires actually slipping, hence the "slip" light.
NOTE: The slip light does and will come on during "normal" driving that is unrelated to tire size or wear. If you apply too much throttle when launching or going around a turn, the wheels will slip and cause the light to illuminate. Also, driving on slick road surfaces (water, oil, rocks) can also cause your tires to slip.
Last edited by DavesZ#3; 04-12-2010 at 02:21 PM.
01-21-2008, 02:14 PM
#43
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Q: When stopped/idling in cold weather, my vents start blowing cold air, even when the engine is warmed up. What gives?
A: You need to bleed the air out of your coolant line, and possibly top
off the coolant even if it's a just a little low.
A: You need to bleed the air out of your coolant line, and possibly top
off the coolant even if it's a just a little low.
Originally Posted by .steeeeZ33.
i didnt read through this thread at all but if it has already been mentioned igore this but u gotta do an air bleed to ur coolant/heater system...
its located in the rear left of the motor little black **** with phillips head...
-get the car warmed up and heater at full blast....
-slowly rev to 3k and keep it there..
-VERY SLOWLY about 1/3 turns at a time, unscrew the bleeder... u do it fast and it will pop off and u wil have a mess on ur hands..
-the threading on the thing is very little and is easy to make it spew everywehre..
-once u start seeing and hearing air and collant bubble out stop screw it back it and stop revving..
-repeat that step a couple times.. i did it 4 times..
-do it until the heater stays hot when ur not revving..
its located in the rear left of the motor little black **** with phillips head...
-get the car warmed up and heater at full blast....
-slowly rev to 3k and keep it there..
-VERY SLOWLY about 1/3 turns at a time, unscrew the bleeder... u do it fast and it will pop off and u wil have a mess on ur hands..
-the threading on the thing is very little and is easy to make it spew everywehre..
-once u start seeing and hearing air and collant bubble out stop screw it back it and stop revving..
-repeat that step a couple times.. i did it 4 times..
-do it until the heater stays hot when ur not revving..
03-14-2008, 03:47 PM
#44
Q: Help! My REV-UP Z seems to be burning oil! Is there a fix? (RevUp = All 6spd M/T 2006 350z's + 2005 Track/Anniversary Edition, basically any 350Z with a 7000RPM redline)
A:
Check out this thread for help:
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/232332-revup-oil-consumption-tsb-and-discussion.html
A:
Check out this thread for help:
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/232332-revup-oil-consumption-tsb-and-discussion.html
Last edited by Wired 24/7; 03-14-2008 at 03:56 PM.
03-17-2008, 10:18 AM
#45
....for your health
Q: What the hell is DNF?
A: DNF is an "unoffical" Xbox Live clan composed of My350z.com forum members. Its origins date back to a small group of My350z members who would regularly play Gears of War via Xbox Live. With the introduction of Forza 2, many additional forum members joined up to compete in races online. These races quickly degraded into a competition to intentionally crash opponents by any means necessary including (but not limited to) driving tracks backward or parking their cars in the middle of high speed straight aways. Due to the constant carnage the group was appropriately referred to as DNF (Did Not Finish).
With the release of COD4 the group has grown exponentially to more that 40+ official members.
DNF now has its own sub-subforum here:
https://my350z.com/forum/dnf-crew-495/
A: DNF is an "unoffical" Xbox Live clan composed of My350z.com forum members. Its origins date back to a small group of My350z members who would regularly play Gears of War via Xbox Live. With the introduction of Forza 2, many additional forum members joined up to compete in races online. These races quickly degraded into a competition to intentionally crash opponents by any means necessary including (but not limited to) driving tracks backward or parking their cars in the middle of high speed straight aways. Due to the constant carnage the group was appropriately referred to as DNF (Did Not Finish).
With the release of COD4 the group has grown exponentially to more that 40+ official members.
DNF now has its own sub-subforum here:
https://my350z.com/forum/dnf-crew-495/
Last edited by Wired 24/7; 03-17-2008 at 06:33 PM.
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04-11-2008, 11:45 PM
#49
Q: The "search" function doesn't really work well. Is there a way to make it work better?
A: It's not guaranteed to make it foolproof, but here's a way to improve your search results.
1) When searching, go into "Advanced Search"
2) Type in your search keyword(s)
3) Select "Boolean" under Search Type and click "Search"
A: It's not guaranteed to make it foolproof, but here's a way to improve your search results.
1) When searching, go into "Advanced Search"
2) Type in your search keyword(s)
3) Select "Boolean" under Search Type and click "Search"
04-30-2008, 10:25 AM
#50
Q: I just installed some smaller engine modifications (ie. intake, spacer, etc.) and my car is acting weird.
A: Every time you install something new on your engine, you should disconnect the negative terminal on the battery before the install.
If it's too late for you to do that, you can reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery for ~20 minutes and reconnecting it.
This can (maybe) also be a cure for a car stalling at high speeds in neutral with a Popcharger.
A: Every time you install something new on your engine, you should disconnect the negative terminal on the battery before the install.
If it's too late for you to do that, you can reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery for ~20 minutes and reconnecting it.
This can (maybe) also be a cure for a car stalling at high speeds in neutral with a Popcharger.
07-01-2008, 03:52 PM
#51
Q. How can I add Cruise Control to a Base model Z?
A. You can't. Apparently nobody can. The Z is "drive-by-wire". The throttle plate is controlled electronically by the ECU. You can't add a physical device to the throttle plate to allow external control. You can't plug up a steering wheel from a Z that has cruise and get it to work on a Base.
The Z has been out for almost 5 years now and to this date, no one has produced an aftermarket add-on product or hacked some method of making cruise work on a Base. Considering how few Base models that have been sold over the years, there's not much of a market for such a device.
A. You can't. Apparently nobody can. The Z is "drive-by-wire". The throttle plate is controlled electronically by the ECU. You can't add a physical device to the throttle plate to allow external control. You can't plug up a steering wheel from a Z that has cruise and get it to work on a Base.
The Z has been out for almost 5 years now and to this date, no one has produced an aftermarket add-on product or hacked some method of making cruise work on a Base. Considering how few Base models that have been sold over the years, there's not much of a market for such a device.
10-12-2008, 03:07 AM
#52
Q: I'm going to my first track day. What's the best upgrade to keep my car reliable and SAFE?
A:Considering that everything is in top condition, your best upgrade would be :
1.) Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines : The stock brake lines are made up of rubber that can expand easily when they get too hot. You press the brake pedal all the way to the floor and your brakes won't bite as hard as it used to or worst, nothing happens. This is because the rubber lines are expanding instead of transferring all the pressure to the pads. (to recover your brakes, pump the pedal several times till you get the bite, then gtfo off the track immediately)
Braided Steel means expansion is very minimal, thus less brake fade.
2.) Racing Brake Fluid - Dramatically reduces brake fade because of its higher boiling point. Well known brand is Motul RBF600
3.) Ceramic Brake Pads / Track Pads - Not really that necessary but these babies have higher heat tolerance compared to the OEM pads, which means less brake fade. They will also last longer at the track.
These upgrades not only let you keep lapping harder and longer but they will also help prevent you from kissing the barriers and walls due to sudden loss of braking power.
Check out this FAQ for first track day info... CLICK
A:Considering that everything is in top condition, your best upgrade would be :
1.) Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines : The stock brake lines are made up of rubber that can expand easily when they get too hot. You press the brake pedal all the way to the floor and your brakes won't bite as hard as it used to or worst, nothing happens. This is because the rubber lines are expanding instead of transferring all the pressure to the pads. (to recover your brakes, pump the pedal several times till you get the bite, then gtfo off the track immediately)
Braided Steel means expansion is very minimal, thus less brake fade.
2.) Racing Brake Fluid - Dramatically reduces brake fade because of its higher boiling point. Well known brand is Motul RBF600
3.) Ceramic Brake Pads / Track Pads - Not really that necessary but these babies have higher heat tolerance compared to the OEM pads, which means less brake fade. They will also last longer at the track.
These upgrades not only let you keep lapping harder and longer but they will also help prevent you from kissing the barriers and walls due to sudden loss of braking power.
Check out this FAQ for first track day info... CLICK
Last edited by DavesZ#3; 01-14-2010 at 05:38 PM.
02-10-2009, 08:01 PM
#53
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Q:I don't understand offsets at all.
A:Offset is the distance from a wheel's mounting surface on the hub to the centerline of the wheel, in millimeters. Negative offset means the mounting surface is towards the inside of the wheel. With positive offset, this surface is biased towards the outside. Typically, wider tires require more positive offset to avoid contact on the inner fender well.
A:Offset is the distance from a wheel's mounting surface on the hub to the centerline of the wheel, in millimeters. Negative offset means the mounting surface is towards the inside of the wheel. With positive offset, this surface is biased towards the outside. Typically, wider tires require more positive offset to avoid contact on the inner fender well.
Last edited by signal34; 02-10-2009 at 08:05 PM.
12-04-2009, 05:27 PM
#55
Are you confused about how the forum works, how it's laid out, how and where to start your new thread?
The following flow chart was developed and posted by KManZ, one of our old time members. It probably doesn't get the attention and exposure it deserves so I'm adding it here. For those of you having problems figuring out the lay of the land, this should help....
Here's a couple of notes/corrections to the flowchart.
1) Post in the Marketplace. The requirements are: Member for 90 days, 500 posts, or Premier Member status.
2) With the release of the 370Z, there are a parallel set of sub-forums that cover it with identical topics as the 350Z.
The following flow chart was developed and posted by KManZ, one of our old time members. It probably doesn't get the attention and exposure it deserves so I'm adding it here. For those of you having problems figuring out the lay of the land, this should help....
Here's a couple of notes/corrections to the flowchart.
1) Post in the Marketplace. The requirements are: Member for 90 days, 500 posts, or Premier Member status.
2) With the release of the 370Z, there are a parallel set of sub-forums that cover it with identical topics as the 350Z.
Last edited by DavesZ#3; 12-04-2009 at 05:31 PM.
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01-13-2010, 04:16 PM
#57
Q: I have xxxK miles on my Z. What scheduled maintenance do I need to perform?
A: https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...intenance.html
A: https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...intenance.html
09-07-2010, 03:38 PM
#58
Q: What is the paint code for Brembo brake calipers?
A: Unfortunately, Brembo doesn't sell the paint or publish the formula. Forum member ChinaClipper has found a matching paint in the form of Humbrol 54 hobby paint.
The full story can be found here... Brembo Touch Up Paint
A: Unfortunately, Brembo doesn't sell the paint or publish the formula. Forum member ChinaClipper has found a matching paint in the form of Humbrol 54 hobby paint.
The full story can be found here... Brembo Touch Up Paint
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LeeZee (11-17-2023)
11-23-2010, 10:15 AM
#59
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6. What's VDC/TCS?
A. VDC (Vehicle Dynamic Control) and TCS (Traction Control System) are both used to ASSIST in the prevention of loss of control in your car. They would cut throttle appropriately to ASSIST to prevent you from spinning out or losing control. Key word is ASSIST. It won't PREVENT it. It will only ASSIST in preventing minor slippage. It can be shut off by the button to the left of the steering wheel, on the lower part of the dash panel. Keep in mind that the base model 350Z does not come with either options.
A. VDC (Vehicle Dynamic Control) and TCS (Traction Control System) are both used to ASSIST in the prevention of loss of control in your car. They would cut throttle appropriately to ASSIST to prevent you from spinning out or losing control. Key word is ASSIST. It won't PREVENT it. It will only ASSIST in preventing minor slippage. It can be shut off by the button to the left of the steering wheel, on the lower part of the dash panel. Keep in mind that the base model 350Z does not come with either options.
Q: The "Slip" light come on randomly, especially in turns, even though my tires aren't slipping. What's up with that?
A: Both the Traction Control System (TCS) and Vehicle Dynamic Control (VDC) can cause the "slip" light to come on. There are a couple of things that can make it come on even though you don't feel/hear your tires slipping.
The most common cause for this behavior is replacement of the OEM tires with a different size. All Zs come with staggered tires, that is to say the fronts are a little shorter than the rears. This causes the tires to rotate at different rates which TCS and VDC depends on for normal operation. If you install tire combinations that don't maintain that stagger, it can cause problems for TCS/VDC resulting in the "slip" light illuminating.
The stock tire sizes and Outside Diameters are:
225/50/17 25.9"
235/50/17 26.3" (0.4" stagger)
225/45/18 25.9"
245/45/18 26.7" (0.8" stagger)
245/40/18 25.7"
265/35/19 26.3" (0.6" stagger)
265/40/18 26.3"
285/35/19 26.9" (0.6" stagger)
When choosing new tires, try to find front/rear pairs that maintain the stagger of at least ½" and less than 1". You should also look for front/rear setups that maintain the same OD as that will keep your speedometer and odometer accurate.
Here are the most common "upsized" tire combinations. These are known to work and keep TCS/VDC happy.
245/40/18 25.7"
275/40/18 26.6" (0.9" stagger)
245/35/19 25.8"
275/35/19 26.6" (0.8" stagger)
255/35/19 26"
285/35/19 26.9" (0.9" stagger)
245/30/20 25.8"
275/30/20 26.5" (0.7" stagger)
Check the manufacturer's website to find the Outside Diameter of tires before you buy them, or use one of the online tire calculators:
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
http://www.wheelsmaster.com/rt_specs.jsp
A less common cause for the "slip" light to illuminate comes from replacing the fronts or rears only. If you replace only the fronts or rears, the stagger may not be what you think it is because the other worn pair is actually up to ½" smaller than they were when new.
New tires also come with a release agent on the surface of the rubber that must be worn off. That makes them slick and can result in your tires actually slipping, hence the "slip" light.
NOTE: The slip light does and will come on during "normal" driving that is unrelated to tire size or wear. If you apply too much throttle when launching or going around a turn, the wheels will slip and cause the light to illuminate. Also, driving on slick road surfaces (water, oil, rocks) can also cause your tires to slip.
A: Both the Traction Control System (TCS) and Vehicle Dynamic Control (VDC) can cause the "slip" light to come on. There are a couple of things that can make it come on even though you don't feel/hear your tires slipping.
The most common cause for this behavior is replacement of the OEM tires with a different size. All Zs come with staggered tires, that is to say the fronts are a little shorter than the rears. This causes the tires to rotate at different rates which TCS and VDC depends on for normal operation. If you install tire combinations that don't maintain that stagger, it can cause problems for TCS/VDC resulting in the "slip" light illuminating.
The stock tire sizes and Outside Diameters are:
225/50/17 25.9"
235/50/17 26.3" (0.4" stagger)
225/45/18 25.9"
245/45/18 26.7" (0.8" stagger)
245/40/18 25.7"
265/35/19 26.3" (0.6" stagger)
265/40/18 26.3"
285/35/19 26.9" (0.6" stagger)
When choosing new tires, try to find front/rear pairs that maintain the stagger of at least ½" and less than 1". You should also look for front/rear setups that maintain the same OD as that will keep your speedometer and odometer accurate.
Here are the most common "upsized" tire combinations. These are known to work and keep TCS/VDC happy.
245/40/18 25.7"
275/40/18 26.6" (0.9" stagger)
245/35/19 25.8"
275/35/19 26.6" (0.8" stagger)
255/35/19 26"
285/35/19 26.9" (0.9" stagger)
245/30/20 25.8"
275/30/20 26.5" (0.7" stagger)
Check the manufacturer's website to find the Outside Diameter of tires before you buy them, or use one of the online tire calculators:
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
http://www.wheelsmaster.com/rt_specs.jsp
A less common cause for the "slip" light to illuminate comes from replacing the fronts or rears only. If you replace only the fronts or rears, the stagger may not be what you think it is because the other worn pair is actually up to ½" smaller than they were when new.
New tires also come with a release agent on the surface of the rubber that must be worn off. That makes them slick and can result in your tires actually slipping, hence the "slip" light.
NOTE: The slip light does and will come on during "normal" driving that is unrelated to tire size or wear. If you apply too much throttle when launching or going around a turn, the wheels will slip and cause the light to illuminate. Also, driving on slick road surfaces (water, oil, rocks) can also cause your tires to slip.
Great info on VDC here:
http://victorianissanblog.com/2009/1...vdc-explained/
11-23-2010, 10:29 AM
#60
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The proper jack point locations - as you can see they have a saftey stand mount that has a groove in it:
and
You can also make a puck for your floor jack and use the FSM approved pinch weld lift point locations.
Hockey Puck thread - made here:
https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...-adapters.html
-J
Last edited by DavesZ#3; 07-31-2011 at 01:01 PM.
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