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Salvage 2003 350z basic

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Old 08-30-2006, 02:36 PM
  #21  
Nano
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11k is really really cheap

the airbag is probably the module that needs to be replaced (beware that the module goes for 1K).
Old 08-30-2006, 02:36 PM
  #22  
betamotorsports
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Really check the air bags. In a typical savage rebuild the air bags are left out completely or replaced with something other then an OEM unit. Since the car shows errors on the air bag system you have to assume they are not there or screwed up. Expect to pay thousands to get it working correctly and heaven help you if you get in a wreck and the bags don't work. Your insurance company can walk away from the claim and if you have a passenger that gets hurt, you're paying for this one the rest of your life.
Old 08-30-2006, 03:24 PM
  #23  
xNeo
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I'm thinking something is wrong, why would someone drive a Z for 20k miles unless they hated it? Might just be me, but something seems fishy.
Old 08-30-2006, 03:50 PM
  #24  
Salamander
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Originally Posted by Spideynw
Or if you can even sell it.
that's true too.
Old 08-30-2006, 03:54 PM
  #25  
bofa
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Originally Posted by xNeo
I'm thinking something is wrong, why would someone drive a Z for 20k miles unless they hated it? Might just be me, but something seems fishy.
Ehh.. this wouldn't worry me.. not everyone can keep a 2-seater for a car. The thing is you'll never find out the truth unless you really know the guy.

For $11K, I'd probably take the chance. If you get screwed, you could porbably part it out and might break close to even.

Honestly though, if someone else put another 20K miles, then it should be okay. Just understand the risk and make sure it's worth it to you.
Old 08-30-2006, 03:55 PM
  #26  
streetracer
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Originally Posted by xNeo
I'm thinking something is wrong, why would someone drive a Z for 20k miles unless they hated it? Might just be me, but something seems fishy.
Yep. 20k in three years is little. Like they left it standing by or something waiting for a biter.
Old 08-30-2006, 04:05 PM
  #27  
Ichigo
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With a salvage title, financial institutions will not lend you the money to purchase, so your going to need cash, or someone willing to loan you 11K to hold a salvage title. This also is a problem when you go to get rid of it, cash only. That could leave you holding the keys for quite a while. You might think its an ok deal, but most people wont.

Just something to remember..
Old 08-30-2006, 04:07 PM
  #28  
Ichigo
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Another good question would be:
"Why a salvage title for just a collision?" must have been a pretty hard smack..
Old 08-30-2006, 04:32 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Ichigo
With a salvage title, financial institutions will not lend you the money to purchase, so your going to need cash, or someone willing to loan you 11K to hold a salvage title. This also is a problem when you go to get rid of it, cash only. That could leave you holding the keys for quite a while. You might think its an ok deal, but most people wont.

Just something to remember..
You are gonna have to buy it cash. Check with your insurance, cuz most company will not do a full coverage on a salvage car. Also, remember that if you get tired of the car and want to trade it in, for get about it.
Old 08-30-2006, 05:33 PM
  #30  
03Zilverstone
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I've got a loan for two salvaged vehicles and my parents have gotten them for multiple salvaged ones as well.
Old 08-30-2006, 05:38 PM
  #31  
bailey bill
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Originally Posted by Ichigo
With a salvage title, financial institutions will not lend you the money to purchase,
...
Not correct.

bill
Old 08-30-2006, 05:40 PM
  #32  
03Zilverstone
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You can als get full coverage on them. I've never had a problem with that.
Old 08-30-2006, 05:54 PM
  #33  
ronniemcfarling
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There is a car dealer near where I live that sells only autos with salvaged titles. They are very reputable and have a 1 year warranty on most of their vehicles. The website is troysellersauto.com
Most of their cars are water damaged in some way. I have bought 2 cars from them over the years and have never had a problem. If you buy a car with a salvage title, you should plan to keep it forever or at least 6 years. They had a 2004 Roadster in there in November of 04 with 1,000 miles that sold for 23,000. I talked to the buyer recently and he now has about 20,000 miles on the car with no problems.
Old 08-30-2006, 05:57 PM
  #34  
ronniemcfarling
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I have gotten loans for 2 salvage vehicles and currently have State Farm insurance on a 2002 Honda Accord with a Salvage Title.
Old 08-30-2006, 08:17 PM
  #35  
terrellda
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The person I am purchasing from is in the Marine Corps, I am also in the Marine Corps, and he was deployed recently for a period of 18 months. So the vehicle sat in storage while he was gone. The reason why he is selling is because his girlfriend is about 6 months pregnant and they want a different vehicle now because she can hardly get in and out of it.

I looked at the title today it is a Maine title and there is no record of it being rebuilt or salvage on the title???? The guy looked at me like I was nuts when I told him it was a salvage vehicle . That is until I showed him the CARFAX I pulled up. Is there any way that this vehicle has a clean title? We also called Maine DMV and they have no record of a salvage on the vehicle?
Old 08-30-2006, 08:31 PM
  #36  
Z_Driver
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Originally Posted by blown in nc
Flood car?
That would be my fear. Electrical Gremlins are impossible to find.
Old 08-30-2006, 08:37 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by terrellda
I pulled the CARFAX information on the VIN number. In the reports it stated that the car was involved in a front end collision with 1341 miles on the odometer. It was repared at a dealership in New Jersey and then inspected and released for resale.
Then it changed ownership only one other time so the previous owner has driven the car for about 20,000 within the last 3 years. With no further accidents reported and no major repairs performed.
No flood damage has ever be reported and the unibody structure under the car is fine. I will be trying to get a full list of the repairs performed from the dealership in New Jersey. And I will be visiting the Nissan Dealership to run the Diagnostic on the Airbag System

BTW: I am looking at purchaing the car from the current owner not a Car Dealer.
Sounds like you found a pretty good car. For $11K even with major body damage with a straight unibody is a fair deal. Only pay 50% of lowest book on the car, that is all it is worth! For salvage the car is worth 50% of it's poor value generally. At least that is the general rule according to the lawyers and what the car I'm buying out of my trust was valued at.
See below If it's a '03 base it doesn't look like it is worth more than $8K Salvaged IMO.
But if it's worth it to you..... go for it! I might even do it on this one. But, don't be fooled on it's value.


Vehicle Condition Ratings Check Vehicle Title History Excellent

Excellent
$19,125
"Excellent" condition means that the vehicle looks new, is in excellent mechanical condition and needs no reconditioning. This vehicle has never had any paint or body work and is free of rust. The vehicle has a clean title history and will pass a smog and safety inspection. The engine compartment is clean, with no fluid leaks and is free of any wear or visible defects. The vehicle also has complete and verifiable service records. Less than 5% of all used vehicles fall into this category.

Good
$18,055
"Good" condition means that the vehicle is free of any major defects. This vehicle has a clean title history, the paint, body and interior have only minor (if any) blemishes, and there are no major mechanical problems. There should be little or no rust on this vehicle. The tires match and have substantial tread wear left. A "good" vehicle will need some reconditioning to be sold at retail. Most consumer owned vehicles fall into this category.

Fair
$16,165
"Fair" condition means that the vehicle has some mechanical or cosmetic defects and needs servicing but is still in reasonable running condition. This vehicle has a clean title history, the paint, body and/or interior need work performed by a professional. The tires may need to be replaced. There may be some repairable rust damage.

Poor
N/A
"Poor" condition means that the vehicle has severe mechanical and/or cosmetic defects and is in poor running condition. The vehicle may have problems that cannot be readily fixed such as a damaged frame or a rusted-through body. A vehicle with a branded title (salvage, flood, etc.) or unsubstantiated mileage is considered "poor." A vehicle in poor condition may require an independent appraisal to determine its value.

Hey, but what do I know ... It's only money.

Here's my $375 Salvage. Apples and Oranges I know but, will make a nice car to leave at BART.


Last edited by Z_Driver; 08-30-2006 at 09:08 PM.
Old 08-30-2006, 08:49 PM
  #38  
csMadMan
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id buy it if i were u
Old 08-30-2006, 08:54 PM
  #39  
terrellda
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The thing is can you have a salvage vehicle without it being documented on the title?? Because Maine has no record of it being a salvage vehicle and there is nothing annotated on the title either.
Old 08-30-2006, 09:00 PM
  #40  
Ichigo
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Originally Posted by bailey bill
Not correct.

bill
Are you using an auto loan? or another type of loan. Maybe Im just used to one specific bank (a credit union). Maybe thats THEIR policy. sry if I am wrong about that one.


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