Breaking the Z in....
Just finished reading about the break-in for the new Z. Is it just me, or is it going to be the hardest 2000km (1200 miles) that you've ever driven when you get your Z's??? 4000rpm? I'll do it, but it won't be easy!
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VQ-
just make sure you vary your engine speed... ;) I know I am going to have to take back roads all the time so that I don't get tempted to just open it up on the freeway. :) JD |
Yeah, remember they were stating that you're not supposed to do the long, constant engine rev thing either!
Lots of back roads! |
can you post a link to the break-in process...Thanks!!
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Originally posted by 350bread can you post a link to the break-in process...Thanks!! |
1200miles?? wow, the RSX has a break in period of 600mi before u can have the VTEC kick in.
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I wonder exactly how long is "for extended periods of time"
I'm going to be driving the Z to school (90 mile round trip), mostly interstate driving. I plan to drive for about 10 min at a constant 70mph, then maybe 65 mph for 10 min and just keep varying it as well as varying from 6th to 5th., anyone have any other ideas? Or thoughts on how long you should stay at one RPM b/4 varying. |
Any opinions on how critical it is to follow these guidelines...I've told alot of people around work about it and they say its a bunch of manufacture crap (probably cuz they want a ride as soon as I get it)...My thoughts are that if Im spending over 30k on a car, I want to do everything I can to protect it, and get the most performance out of it in the end. I've heard that a good redline reving around 600miles is also good...Any input?
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I guess 10 min at a constant speed is OK, but I'd rather vary the speed more like 55-75 slowlv then 75-55 repeat.
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It's more important to vary your engine speed. I have a 4 hour drive after picking up my Z. I plan to work it through the 1500 to 4000 rpm range by varying speed and working through gears 4 to 6.
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All I know is that its going to be a long 2000km (1200 miles)!!
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Originally posted by nissanfan The e-brake needs breaking in too. Go fast in a turn and pull that sucker! That should loosen the cable and break it in..:D |
Vary the engine's revolution intermittently when breaking in, work that sucker at low rpms first then gradually rev it up and down. It is also important to break-in the brakes. Forcible, short burst braking is not recommended. Extended drives at constant speed are not advisable.
The break-in period is not as critical for most vehicles as it is for motorcycles. I noticed a significant difference in my bike's engine idling rpm after opening the trottle from 6000 to 7000 rpm during the break-in period. |
Originally posted by VQracer IS that your Duc in the picture? |
I like how you can set the shift light to come on at any given RPM. For the brake in period I'm going to set that light to come on at about 4000 RPM. This is no big deal, it should take me a week or two to pass 1200 miles.
Ethan |
Originally posted by ethan84ae I like how you can set the shift light to come on at any given RPM. For the brake in period I'm going to set that light to come on at about 4000 RPM. This is no big deal, it should take me a week or two to pass 1200 miles. Ethan |
The owner's manual has a section about setting the shift light. I can't remember where it is, but it's in there. It also talked about how to turn it off, by setting it to, I believe, 7200 rpm.
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Yes, programming the shift light is covered in the manual under the trip computer section.
However, I did notice that there is no mention of a 0-60 timer that many people have speculated about. The manual covers all the modes. There is a stopwatch however but I don't know how handy that would be in measuring that sort of thing. |
Check out page 5-13 of the owners manual.
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Originally posted by fatZo That light would certainly come in handy for the break-in. I am contemplating hot-wiring my horns to that light, just to make sure I don't accidentaly over-rev the engine. :D |
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