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Just a side note I have no idea why my pics from FLIcKR double post in here.
Mounted my Nitto NT05 275/35/18 fronts 295/35/18 rears on RPF1 18x9.5 +15 18x10.5 +15. Stock suspension and ride height. Seems like everything clears without rubbing under normal driving at least.
definition of perfect fitment I kinda wish I got a pearl white Z instead of black. If I buy kojins my offsets are gonna be a bit different because I run the brembos. I'm gonna probably have to run +35 offset to clear the brakes which means I probably won't get that dished look...sadboys
You can go more aggressive on offset with the Enkei Kojin and Brembos. I just got some 18 inch Kojin installed with 25/15 offset and 8.5/9.5 width with 245/45 and 275/40 Sumitomos, which works out to 0 diameter difference for VDC. No rubbing, pretty flush, but I’m not too low with the Tein S.
Rear diff bushing. The thing gushed so much it ran down the subframe before it stained my exhaust pipe.
Going with Prothane for the replacements. Also going to change the diff fluid and do the axle-click TSB.
Have fun and good luck with the rear diff bushing! I have done this twice on two separate vehicles and I can honestly say it doesn't really get any easier. lol.
The two side bushings on the diff aren't too bad and can be pounded out with a small sledge and a big socket. That rear one in the subframe is a PITA. Some like the threaded rod approach. I go with the combination of a drill, reciprocating saw, hammer, and chisel with some brute force.
nice fitment lol, i know using the oe style staggered rims on our cars is preferred because the tire width is part of the algorithm the VDC uses to figure out what the car is doing. My question is can you just permanently disable the VDC and the car will drive fine running all four tires the same size?
Originally Posted by Wet feet
You can go more aggressive on offset with the Enkei Kojin and Brembos. I just got some 18 inch Kojin installed with 25/15 offset and 8.5/9.5 width with 245/45 and 275/40 Sumitomos, which works out to 0 diameter difference for VDC. No rubbing, pretty flush, but I’m not too low with the Tein S.
Yeah, mine failed like that too shortly after I bought my car. I replaced all my diff bushings in my car at a shop for some Whiteline poly ones. Expensive but it's my Favorite mod for the Z thus far.
Originally Posted by tmdz
Rear diff bushing. The thing gushed so much it ran down the subframe before it stained my exhaust pipe.
Going with Prothane for the replacements. Also going to change the diff fluid and do the axle-click TSB.
Pro tip for others looking to do this - Get the AutoZone OEM 6pt socket wheel axle nut kit (they loan it out for free) NOT THE 12pt SET!. The kit has the 32mm socket which you will need if you want to remove the axle nuts (eat your Wheaties before attempting) but it also has a 34mm socket which is perfect for driving out the differential ear bushings, just flip the diff over and start hammering.
Originally Posted by tmdz
Rear diff bushing. The thing gushed so much it ran down the subframe before it stained my exhaust pipe.
Going with Prothane for the replacements. Also going to change the diff fluid and do the axle-click TSB.
Had my new Transgo shift kit installed today and WOW! Worth every dollar. The mechanic told me to take it easy for about 200 miles. Even under normal driving you feel each shift twice as fast.
Great inexpensive mod.
nice fitment lol, i know using the oe style staggered rims on our cars is preferred because the tire width is part of the algorithm the VDC uses to figure out what the car is doing. My question is can you just permanently disable the VDC and the car will drive fine running all four tires the same size?
Tire/wheel width has nothing to do with VDC. Diameter does. ECU is looking for a specific speed delta range and doesn’t care a bit about whether you’re running 8s or 12” steamrollers.
Staggered tire/wheel width has more to do with controlling the Z's penchant for snap oversteer - characteristic of the type of suspension the car is equipped with - Sadly, such control means having a bit too much understeer in OE condition. But it's all good, both conditions can easily be tuned in/out or amplified depending on what you need.
There IS a thread on here somewhere that discusses defeating VDC. For specific purposes, sure, like racing or drifting, totally understandable. I am, however, at a total loss as to how you can value tire rotation over stability. But hey, your car...
Had my new Transgo shift kit installed today and WOW! Worth every dollar. The mechanic told me to take it easy for about 200 miles. Even under normal driving you feel each shift twice as fast.
Great inexpensive mod.
its weird, i have seen 1 vid showing it shift a little quicker, but in the other vids most just seem to shift harder , not any faster. Is your shift lag actually improved? I have done tons of research and, despite the transgo being my only hope, everything pretty much says u cant make it any less laggy. Maybe somehow most install it wrong? Most have said its a line pressure thing, which the the transgo could change, but electric tuning has not been successful
its weird, i have seen 1 vid showing it shift a little quicker, but in the other vids most just seem to shift harder , not any faster. Is your shift lag actually improved? I have done tons of research and, despite the transgo being my only hope, everything pretty much says u cant make it any less laggy. Maybe somehow most install it wrong? Most have said its a line pressure thing, which the the transgo could change, but electric tuning has not been successful
Define "laggy".
I'm assuming you're talking about the time the transmission reacts to your manual gear change through the shifter (paddles?). Like [Click]<delay>[Clunk]...?
Do know that most shift kits operate on the principle of re-directed and/or restricting hydraulic flow. So, the "harder" sensation IS directly related to faster gear changes - once the transmission decides to obey your hand on the shifter I guess.
its weird, i have seen 1 vid showing it shift a little quicker, but in the other vids most just seem to shift harder , not any faster. Is your shift lag actually improved? I have done tons of research and, despite the transgo being my only hope, everything pretty much says u cant make it any less laggy. Maybe somehow most install it wrong? Most have said its a line pressure thing, which the the transgo could change, but electric tuning has not been successful
Originally Posted by MicVelo
Define "laggy".
I'm assuming you're talking about the time the transmission reacts to your manual gear change through the shifter (paddles?). Like [Click]<delay>[Clunk]...?
Do know that most shift kits operate on the principle of re-directed and/or restricting hydraulic flow. So, the "harder" sensation IS directly related to faster gear changes - once the transmission decides to obey your hand on the shifter I guess.
There is a shift lag from 4th to 5th on the RE5R05A which actually is a mechanical design flaw. I remember reading about it when I was researching the Trans Go kit. The article explained what was actually happening mechanically, why it was happening, and how to remedy it.. It's on the web. If I find it I'll post it up here.
I'm assuming you're talking about the time the transmission reacts to your manual gear change through the shifter (paddles?). Like [Click]<delay>[Clunk]...?
Do know that most shift kits operate on the principle of re-directed and/or restricting hydraulic flow. So, the "harder" sensation IS directly related to faster gear changes - once the transmission decides to obey your hand on the shifter I guess.
Originally Posted by Atreyu'z 350
There is a shift lag from 4th to 5th on the RE5R05A which actually is a mechanical design flaw. I remember reading about it when I was researching the Trans Go kit. The article explained what was actually happening mechanically, why it was happening, and how to remedy it.. It's on the web. If I find it I'll post it up here.
yea thats the lag im talking about. Mine has quite a lag. Its almost two seconds from moving the shifter/paddles until the tranny actually engages the next gear. I have noticed, perhaps pre programmed, that you can double down shift from 5th to 3rd and the tranny wont engage 4th if you are quick enough. However its not the same double downshifting from 4th to 2nd. It engages 3rd for a second and then goes to second. Unlike the smooth 5-3 shift i can get. I have been contemplating the transgo for sometime, but not really interested if it just made the gear changing harder. I wantwd it for faster less lag shifting
There is a shift lag from 4th to 5th on the RE5R05A which actually is a mechanical design flaw. I remember reading about it when I was researching the Trans Go kit. The article explained what was actually happening mechanically, why it was happening, and how to remedy it.. It's on the web. If I find it I'll post it up here.
Originally Posted by boamedt
yea thats the lag im talking about. Mine has quite a lag. Its almost two seconds from moving the shifter/paddles until the tranny actually engages the next gear. I have noticed, perhaps pre programmed, that you can double down shift from 5th to 3rd and the tranny wont engage 4th if you are quick enough. However its not the same double downshifting from 4th to 2nd. It engages 3rd for a second and then goes to second. Unlike the smooth 5-3 shift i can get. I have been contemplating the transgo for sometime, but not really interested if it just made the gear changing harder. I wantwd it for faster less lag shifting
Hmmm, no solution for ya, especially with Eyegor's note about the "design flaw". But keep in mind that even if one has a "manualmatic" (shiftable) transmission, it's never going to quite have the type of crisp "right now" shifting that, say, a clutch driven sequential gearbox has. It's still subject to the mechanical/hydraulic limits of a slush box.
You mentioned something about "electric tuning".... I'm not at all familiar with Nissan auto gearboxes but I'd imagine there's an electronic aspect of this trans? Even still, somehow doubt electronics can overcome the fluid dynamics issue...
Thanks for the info I found a thread dating a couple years back about how to defeat the VDC/TC altogether. And snap oversteer even with vdc off I haven't experienced that and I drive my car hard. All I get is some initial understeer and maybe a slight drift on exit but normally the car corrects itself so its not a problem
Originally Posted by MicVelo
Tire/wheel width has nothing to do with VDC. Diameter does. ECU is looking for a specific speed delta range and doesn’t care a bit about whether you’re running 8s or 12” steamrollers.
Staggered tire/wheel width has more to do with controlling the Z's penchant for snap oversteer - characteristic of the type of suspension the car is equipped with - Sadly, such control means having a bit too much understeer in OE condition. But it's all good, both conditions can easily be tuned in/out or amplified depending on what you need.
There IS a thread on here somewhere that discusses defeating VDC. For specific purposes, sure, like racing or drifting, totally understandable. I am, however, at a total loss as to how you can value tire rotation over stability. But hey, your car...
03-18-2018, 03:30 PM
But it's all good, both conditions can easily be tuned in/out or amplified depending on what you need.
