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I've had my Roadster for just over a year now.
I've been lurking & learning and tried to post a couple times, but it never seemed to show up... who knows what I'm doing wrong.
Car is mostly a weekend cruiser... finding the backroads connecting local breweries.
Also makes running any errand fun.
I've mostly been a SUV guy, so even though I'm mostly stock it feels super sporty to me.
Signed up for track day this weekend... If this posts, I'll add more later.
Drove on a race track for the first time in my life this weekend.
Did "Track Attack" at a local raceway.
30 minutes of safety brief, track rules, and a few driving basics.
Then three 15 minute sessions of follow the leader paced laps at an advertised 60%-65% of "race pace".
We broke into groups of 8 with a pace car for each group.
I was in a group with a Cayman, 2 Camaros, A4, Lotus Elise, a GTI and a Civic.
Our pace car was a young guy in a GTI.
I ended up as Car 1 for the first session so that was nice to follow the pace car and learn the track.
Session 1 started slow to warm up ... first two laps seemed reasonable.
Then we picked it up for 3 more fairly brisk laps and I thought... okay this was worth $99.
Session break was in car and basically just a quick check-in to ensure we were good and to reorder cars.
I was fourth in line now with the Cayman and the Camaros up front.
We started brisk right out of the gate and I barely kept up.
The track ends/begins with a 2700' straightaway before the 12 turns coming back and as we hit the straight for lap 2 they took off... so much for 65%.
All-season tires, stock brakes, and most importantly novice driver... I could not keep up after that.
Thankfully there was a big gap behind me as well with the other cars so I wasn't holding anyone up.
Session 3 was more of the same, but I got to experience what I am guessing was some brake fade towards the end of the session.
That reminded me I had no safety gear, pretty much had no idea what I was doing and got me slowing down.
Overall it was an absolute blast but I can see how this can get expensive quick.
I have a roadster and will never pass a broomstick test - 6'3" 240lbs.
So luckily I'm not shopping for a big brake kit and new Michelins.
Unless I just get another car for the track... ?
It's a fun but expensive rabbit hole if you want to modify. Given the excellent condition it's in I'd be tempted to leave it stock and let it appreciate.
They're such great cars out of the box. Maybe some tasteful mods you can reverse if you want to sell it later?
Not looking to do major mods-changes since I don't really see this roadster being a serious track car. Continental Extreme Contact DWS 06+ tires did fine... at least fine enough for my driving ability for now.
Brakes had some issues, so think I will be doing some maintenance/upgrades.
From the look of things my brakes are stock with replacement "oem-like" pads.
Don't think I really need to go all in on the big brake upgrade.
I'm thinking new slotted rotors... better pads... stainless brake lines.... Motul 5.1...
I usually buy OEM or stuff off RockAuto, but I've been looking at the Z1 Non-Brembo upgrade kit.
I'm thinking the StopTech pads are good for me with 99% on street.
I'm thinking slotted rotors - anyone know who makes them? They are quality right?
They also offer a master cylinder brace... is this legit or nonsense?
All adds up to $808... which is significantly cheaper than even the low end BBK.
Plus 15 years and 110k miles.. I can justify new/better brakes if not a full BBK.
Anyone have any suggestions on rotors, pads, or the master brace?
I would replace to stainless steel brake lines, higher temp brake fluid and better brake pads. Next step is 200tw tires. Just have fun and replace stuff that you think limits your driving skills. Just spend the money on seat time than upgrades. You'll know what you will need after many more events.
Motul, SS Lines, & Pads are on their way.
Slotted Rotors are shipping some unknown day in the future... yet another supply chain issue I guess.
I passed on the master cylinder brace for now... can always get one in the future if I ever see the need.
Tires will also be the future if this becomes habitual.
Plus I still need to figure out if they'll let me mod the roll bar to pass the broomstick test since I'm not even close.
Otherwise I'm stuck in the intro-fam follow the leader and can't do anything more.
Unfortunately, the roadster isn't the best track car. Nevermind the flex with being topless, but the factory roll bar hoops behind the seat aren't sufficient to pass safety. I was going to ask where you went in VA where they let you on. I did some research into this a while back and IIRC, I think there might be a track in SC which is probably the closest to us in which it will pass. Otherwise, I think you may have to go with a custom welded roll cage. But hey, I hope I'm wrong so I can bring my ZR on the track!
Unfortunately, the roadster isn't the best track car. Nevermind the flex with being topless, but the factory roll bar hoops behind the seat aren't sufficient to pass safety. I was going to ask where you went in VA where they let you on. I did some research into this a while back and IIRC, I think there might be a track in SC which is probably the closest to us in which it will pass. Otherwise, I think you may have to go with a custom welded roll cage. But hey, I hope I'm wrong so I can bring my ZR on the track!
I have no illusions that my ZR will be a racecar... it's my fair weather cruiser.
Just hoping to add a few days on the track now and then and maybe even a little professional HPDE instruction so I know what I'm doing.
Don't ever imagine racing "door-to-door" but it would be nice to legally go fast and take some turns aggressively now and then.
Dominion Raceway in Thornburg VA is my closest track.
They have the follow the leader intro class that allows ZRs.
Also check out SCCA Track Night in America at various tracks all over - they allow ZRs as well.
I was going back next weekend, but my brake upgrade was delayed due to supply issues.
Don't have parts in hand this weekend and usually don't have time to work on the car during the week.
When I do go, I plan on discussing roll bar mod options with them... what is allowed... bolt on?
I'm thinking I can pull the trim and have a roll cage shop weld on some brackets and fab a bolt on option.
There is no room for something larger that is permanent and keep the functioning top, but plenty of room for big chunky brackets.
Slight chance the bolt on will work with the top up, but unlimited room for a big hoop with the top down.
Of course that means only fair weather days, but that's probably best for a noob anyway.
It also may be a little ugly as the trim likely won't go back on, but we will see.
[QUOTE=Heel Til I Die;11082530]I've seen roll cages over the years on ZRs which maintain the operation of the top. They're not the prettiest, but it is possible.]
I saw these in my circular searching.
I don't think the Yoshihara top is still functional.
Plus it looks like they removed the stock roll bar cross member and all sorts of other stuff.
Much farther then I want to go.
The BamBam top is my inspiration, but the way he did it makes the hoops skull crushers without a helmet on.
I still want to be able to cruise sans helmet.
I suppose those bars could get covered in padding, but not sure that really cuts it.
I'm thinking the same general shape as BamBam, just pushed back behind the headrests.
This behind the headrest position interferes with the top movement and would require to be bolt on.
Obviously will work with the top down... slight chance you can squeeze it in there with the top up... all depends on how high it needs to be.
Trying to save an inch or so has me playing with seats now too.
I want to keep stock seats - sliding, reclining, power, heated, airbag...
Not really sure there is a way to lower stock seats.... more digging on that later.
I don't have any better close-up pics, but the white ZR has a custom roll bar welded into the frame and the top is still functional. These pics are from Zdayz a few years back. Maybe some inspiration?
I was excited to get my Z1 boxes yesterday, but some items are on backorder with no delivery date.
I have Front Rotors and Rear Pads in hand... that won't be very useful.
Also got the SS Brake Lines and Motul 5.1, but probably going to wait to do it all at once particularly in the ridiculous heat we are having right now.
20 Aug is my next potential track day, so hopefully I get everything before then...
I was excited to get my Z1 boxes yesterday, but some items are on backorder with no delivery date.
I have Front Rotors and Rear Pads in hand... that won't be very useful.
Also got the SS Brake Lines and Motul 5.1, but probably going to wait to do it all at once particularly in the ridiculous heat we are having right now.
20 Aug is my next potential track day, so hopefully I get everything before then...
You may want to install your front rotors and bed them in with the used pads. I prefer that in my Z33 racecar, as long as the used pads are not grooved or damaged.
You may want to install your front rotors and bed them in with the used pads. I prefer that in my Z33 racecar, as long as the used pads are not grooved or damaged.
My only training is forums and YouTube videos, but what is the purpose of bedding with the old pads?
Once I switch pads I thought the new pad had to scrub off all the old and lay a new layer of itself to bed properly.
So switching to aggresive/track pads was easier than switching back to street pads.
Is that not your experience?
Do you think pad residue is basically all the same?
So any pad layer "primes" the rotor?
Rear Rotors and Front Pads have been on backorder forever.
So I've been on pause on the Brake Upgrade for a while.
Decided to modify my order to what was avaialble - Slotted for the Front, Plain for the Rear, Hawk Pads, SS Lines, Motul 5.1.
Not much guidance on the lines, but after lots of searches I figured it out... I thought.
Driver front wasn't quite right and was rubbing on my test drive - didn't go far, but cut through the outer plastic - SS is fine.
I've been messing with the line... it has a "memory" and wants to go wrong... I loosened and tried to get it to cooperate.
I may end up having to re-do the whole thing and re-bleed.
That's a *****. If I get a chance I'll take a photo of my routing. I've never had an issue but yeah, zip ties might be the solution as long as you can leave enough slack for full movement.
My only training is forums and YouTube videos, but what is the purpose of bedding with the old pads?
Once I switch pads I thought the new pad had to scrub off all the old and lay a new layer of itself to bed properly.
So switching to aggresive/track pads was easier than switching back to street pads.
Is that not your experience?
Do you think pad residue is basically all the same?
So any pad layer "primes" the rotor?
Ideally, using an older set of pads with the same compound will help bed the new rotors in. But unless you have a damaged set of used pads, you can still install, bleed and prepare your brake system with these new components. It won't take long to bed your new pads in when you get them, just use a good bed-in process to put down new pad material.
Loosened up brake line, re-adjusted and tweaked alignment on all the guides.
Passenger side rides just perfect.
Driver side still wants to stray towards wheel edge.
Going to leave a zip tie on there to prevent it.
Since I had to re-bleed brakes, I decided to adjust the parking brake... it needed 12+ clicks to hold vice the proper 6-7.
As usual, something went wrong.
That stupid rubber plug popped into the rotor and I had to take the rotor off to get it out.
Not the end of the world but annoying when you think you are done.
I was tempted to leave it off, none of my other cars have a plug... but it was easy to pop on with the rotor off.
I'm finally ready for the next track day on 17 Sep, but when I went to sign up - they are full.
Took me too long to get the car all good and now I'm on a waitlist... we will see if a spot opens.
Spot opened for the track today and I head out in about an hour.
Going over the car and noticed the clutch fluid was shot... black... fails test... how did I miss that since I've been messing with the brakes for weeks.
Luckily I had an extra bottle of Motul so I could do a couple quick fluid changes.
Thinking Stainless Steel clutch line now too.
Assume it was track/aggresive driving that caused this - heat.
Or maybe the horrible clutch work since I've been trying to teach my daughters how to drive stick - thinking this just kills the friction plate though, not the fluid.
07-04-2022, 07:34 AM
Unretired - 2007 Roadster
