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Hmmm, no solution for ya, especially with Eyegor's note about the "design flaw". But keep in mind that even if one has a "manualmatic" (shiftable) transmission, it's never going to quite have the type of crisp "right now" shifting that, say, a clutch driven sequential gearbox has. It's still subject to the mechanical/hydraulic limits of a slush box.
You mentioned something about "electric tuning".... I'm not at all familiar with Nissan auto gearboxes but I'd imagine there's an electronic aspect of this trans? Even still, somehow doubt electronics can overcome the fluid dynamics issue...
The transmission's supposed to be driver adaptive. It takes roughly 30 miles for it to ''learn'' how that driver drives, and then it ''adapts'' to a more efficient way of operating with that particular driver. It's called ''fuzzy logic''. The input is received, and then determined as being ''Mostly Yes'' - ''Yes'' - ''Mostly No'' - ''No''.
Originally Posted by boamedt
yea thats the lag im talking about. Mine has quite a lag. Its almost two seconds from moving the shifter/paddles until the tranny actually engages the next gear. I have noticed, perhaps pre programmed, that you can double down shift from 5th to 3rd and the tranny wont engage 4th if you are quick enough. However its not the same double downshifting from 4th to 2nd. It engages 3rd for a second and then goes to second. Unlike the smooth 5-3 shift i can get. I have been contemplating the transgo for sometime, but not really interested if it just made the gear changing harder. I wantwd it for faster less lag shifting
Interesting. I didn't know about the double downshifting. I have the 4th to 5th shift lag, always did. Even after installing Trans Go. However, knowing that it's something to be expected eventually with this transmission is kind of comforting in itself.. Have you tried resetting the ECU to reset the TCM? Did you check your fluid to make sure that's up to par?.. Did you also know that the shifting firmness(I'll call it) of Trans Go is throttle position determinate?(After the transmission itself has adapted to your way of driving, of coarse)
I did finally get it out... But I destroyed the subframe in the process, and probably lost some hearing in the process, when it finally let loose it was like a gun went off.
My first set up used oak wood pieces, the wood crushed into itself so o scratched that idea... I then used my spreader pieces because thats not going to crush.
Thought I was home free when the drivers side bushing slid right off, after two taps.
...boy was I wrong!
Had to tear the bushing, cut up and then hack up the metal sleeve with a chisel and douse it with every anti-rust spray/formula I know for three days, before I could just barely torque it off with a massive pipe wrench.
Going to install some Armstrong PSB560 bushings, they look pretty solid. There is not a whole lot written about them, should anyone down the line like to know how they held up, feel free to contact me.
Lots of bushing (tough work) going on here, all I did for the past week was putting on my center caps I needed for the longest time and window tints (not pictured) at 20%. New door handles should be in eventually.
how long did it take to do this, my compression arms are shot and I bought new arms with poly bushings already pressed in but my concern is how long it takes to just remove and install the new arms? The stealership quoted me something crazy for installing my new arms because they said it took a while even though it looks kinda simple.
Originally Posted by Eigen
Got around to doing my compression arms.
Thought I was home free when the drivers side bushing slid right off, after two taps.
...boy was I wrong!
Had to tear the bushing, cut up and then hack up the metal sleeve with a chisel and douse it with every anti-rust spray/formula I know for three days, before I could just barely torque it off with a massive pipe wrench.
Going to install some Armstrong PSB560 bushings, they look pretty solid. There is not a whole lot written about them, should anyone down the line like to know how they held up, feel free to contact me.
The transmission's supposed to be driver adaptive. It takes roughly 30 miles for it to ''learn'' how that driver drives, and then it ''adapts'' to a more efficient way of operating with that particular driver. It's called ''fuzzy logic''. The input is received, and then determined as being ''Mostly Yes'' - ''Yes'' - ''Mostly No'' - ''No''.
Interesting. I didn't know about the double downshifting. I have the 4th to 5th shift lag, always did. Even after installing Trans Go. However, knowing that it's something to be expected eventually with this transmission is kind of comforting in itself.. Have you tried resetting the ECU to reset the TCM? Did you check your fluid to make sure that's up to par?.. Did you also know that the shifting firmness(I'll call it) of Trans Go is throttle position determinate?(After the transmission itself has adapted to your way of driving, of coarse)
i really havent tried reseting the computer, although it might not be true, i have read on here the learning mode is for auto mode only not manumatic. Im doing a full fluid flush and fill on everything next. It only has 76k on it. I will have to check if the 4-5 lag is the same or different then other gear shifts. I did know the firmness from the transgo was throttle determined but didnt think it was worth ut just for that. If ur shifts really did speed up then i would be down to do it
how long did it take to do this, my compression arms are shot and I bought new arms with poly bushings already pressed in but my concern is how long it takes to just remove and install the new arms? The stealership quoted me something crazy for installing my new arms because they said it took a while even though it looks kinda simple.
I would say it really depends on where and how your car was driven. A south cali car, should be a couple hours, a manitoba car...could take a couple days, if you work on your car after work.
The reason is that it is not a job you want to rush as you can snap the subframe bolt, a few people have done this and it is bad news. Additionally, if you have to cut up the bushings metals jacket, you have to be careful to not cut into the bolt.
I would agree with the dealership, the job can be alot more difficult than it seems. However if the bushing can be tapped off like on my drivers side, it is quick and straight foward. Only make sure that you PB the crap out of the nut, for a day or two, before torquing the nut and using an impact is safer than a breaker.
The quote i got at the stealership was 660$ for both front left and front right arms which is pretty stupid. My car is from CT so it should be a rust bucket but luckily my car has just surface rust underneath so im hoping Ill be okay.
Originally Posted by Eigen
I would say it really depends on where and how your car was driven. A south cali car, should be a couple hours, a manitoba car...could take a couple days, if you work on your car after work.
The reason is that it is not a job you want to rush as you can snap the subframe bolt, a few people have done this and it is bad news. Additionally, if you have to cut up the bushings metals jacket, you have to be careful to not cut into the bolt.
I would agree with the dealership, the job can be alot more difficult than it seems. However if the bushing can be tapped off like on my drivers side, it is quick and straight foward. Only make sure that you PB the crap out of the nut, for a day or two, before torquing the nut and using an impact is safer than a breaker.
Redesigned, "beefed" up my Engine transport stand, for when I pick up my completed motor from Dynosty here in the next week or so. I haven't picked up my welder in 6 months and had no practice pieces to dial in the settings so I just cringed and went with it and dialed in as I went. Came out much better than I thought, considering.
This version is the "HD" version and is basically (2) 7 ga pieces welded together for rigidity, because the strippit machine and press-break Im working with only goes 7 ga max.
I left the bottom piece in the rain by mistake, so it needs to be blasted to rejuvenate it. I wanted to glass bead everything so it has an awesome look, and just glass bead every so often and not paint it, but its difficult finding someone to do that job.
^You can see the first weld i made was on that top bracket. Settings were so off so I had to grind down. I am thinking of grinding flush and just doing my "tig impression" miging on it like I did the rest of the pieces.
Atmo vent? You plug the hole with something....? Didn't see any brass plugs in your pic of the parts.
Never really thought there was much value in a catch can on a street driven NA car but would be curious to know what the inside of your manifold looks like after a few thousand miles.
I had one on my race car eons ago and it DID get pretty messy...
03-21-2018, 10:17 AM
