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I need to pay more attention to my Z33, I finished the truck and gave it back to my dad...
Got the element back... Had to replace a warped rotor, and today removed the water pump. It did not go well, will hopefully get it buttoned up tomorrow.
I did drive the Z a few days ago... Picked up groceries like a champ.
I Replaced my rear spring mount bushings today and found this....bear in mind my emissions and registration is also due next month and this is a surprise. Is there any inexpensive way to fix this? I could get the Nismo S-tune exhaust like I wanted to begin with, but I'm trying to get a beater car for winter so I really don't want to spend the money right now. Is there anyone here that thinks it will pass just the way it is?
Last edited by meezusthegoat; 09-23-2018 at 12:14 PM.
I had the same thing happen on my old car. It rusted and broke off at the flanges at two different sections. I went to a local muffler shop and they welded it back together for $50.
Went out to Thompson Motor Speedway with C.A.R.T in CT. Pretty much had a blast minus a very close encounter with a wall that could of ended the Z. Really gotta work on my line though for next event.
Things that have been done since last update:
-koni yellow sports + hotchkis springs
-CF hood/aerocatch pins (just for looks)
-wider enkeis in the rear 10.5 now instead of 9.5
-corbeau reclinable RRX seats Picture was taken by a friend (silver 06) who was in advance class.
This is the reason I don't do add-on body parts.
Home mechanic dork paints spoiler. Well, the paint actually came out great! However..... brand new KY0 paint doesn't go with 15 year old KY0 paint.
Coulda left it CF but then it looks like a nose job.... like it's such an obvious "add-on" plopped on the lid.
Back to the drawing, er, painting board....mehhhh. Or more likely, it'll go back in the garage with the rest of the unsold body add-ons and the car stays naked. Heh heh.....
Took off my berk test pipes for z1 motorsports hfc's (hr) idle got much better within 30 min of letting it run and no more rasp at 3k rpms. Might put my muffler back on today too if work slows down, it's a flowmaster 80 but I've been enjoying the noise without it tbh lol.
So basically I have 18x11.5 0 offset and 18x10.5 -7 offset on work L1 3p. I was thinking 305/35/18 in the front and 335/30/18 in the rear. Would that look good?
I Replaced my rear spring mount bushings today and found this....bear in mind my emissions and registration is also due next month and this is a surprise. Is there any inexpensive way to fix this? I could get the Nismo S-tune exhaust like I wanted to begin with, but I'm trying to get a beater car for winter so I really don't want to spend the money right now. Is there anyone here that thinks it will pass just the way it is?
Mine was like that when I first got my car, I just cut the flange off and used a short piece of exhaust pipe clamped on each side. Its a ghetto patch but it will work and get the muffler back into the equation and should pass inspection.
If you're left feeling unfulfilled, it would be a good time to put in a stainless braided line while you've got the slave out.
yeah im thinking about getting the Z1 insulated stainless line with the oem slave. The shipping kills me every time so I end up scouring the site trying to find anything I might want for the next year so I don't have to pay shipping twice. I should just wait 2 months because we all know that line is going to be $5 cheeper for black Friday haha
09-19-2018, 03:46 PM
