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Finally went to a square setup. My old te sagas in bronze are up for sale. Glad I went with a +22 for right now.
Will be doing a comparison between my old RE71R and these new RSRRs. Also they shaved off a substantial amount of weight with the Sagas compared to the SLs.
Last edited by Lumpia_Boy; 03-11-2019 at 02:28 PM.
Amazing post, how does a square set-up feel? What's your wheel spec?
I've been casually talking to a friend about getting TE37 RT or TE37 with 19x10.5 +22 / 19x11.5 +12 so I'm really curious.
I'll know this week, but it should be neutral. With a staggered setup, I noticed a bit sharper turn in since the wheel size was a 9.5 compared to a 10.5. Old wheel spec with the Sagas were the typical 18 staggered setup with a +24 rear and +22 front.
Just got my rotors refinished but there’s an area of the braking surface that wasn’t (brown areas) my previous pads overhang thus explains this.
Ill be using stoptech street all round on the Akebonos Rotors, will it overhang? I have overhang caliper pins so I’ll use it to be safe but I was wondering what would happened if the brake pads were to brake on the smooth surface and a very small area where it wasn’t (brown) will this ruin my brake pads?
Today, I swapped the front tires left <-> right as some dumba$$ (me) didn't see the rotational direction on the sidewall when mounting the summer tires last spring shortly after I bought my Z. I've driven ~600 miles since I bought it a year ago in March. I've been busy with projects around the house that have to get done before I can play with the Z
So, the front tires are all correct now and spinning in the proper direction.
But then I look at the rear tires, and only one of them is running backwards to the intended rotation - so, some other dumba$$ (not me) mounted one of the rear tires backwards. Oof. So, I'll have to take one of them (by the looks of it, a newer replacement that had been fitted) to a local tire shop and have them remount the tire in the other direction. AND, there are no tires shops open on Sunday around me...yeesh. I'll have to find a shop on my way to work or at lunch tomorrow...
Other things noticed while moving tires around and looking under the vehicle: right front shock is leaking, front inner control arm bushings look to be shot, rear left shock is also likely leaking. I'll add that to the eventually-do list (Whiteline bushings all-around are already planned...gonna need a shop press, though - good excuse to get one).
For 125k on the odo and costing me all of $500 to buy, I can't complain. The car runs strong, and the interior cleaned up nicely...yeah, that's another thing I finally got done today
Funny You Should Ask: DE with Zex Wet Nitrous System
I completed my Zex mod last week and have two (possible) issues. Thanks in advance for any helpful comments.
2004 DE 9completely stock)
Zex Wet System
MSD Window Switch
Fuel Pressure Safety Switch
1. When I "Arm" the system, with the car at idle, it drags the idle down 200 RPM. It does not blow the 5 amp fuse.
2. When the system "Fires", the nitrous comes on but the solenoids in the nitrous management unit chatter.
1. When I "Arm" the system, with the car at idle, it drags the idle down 200 RPM.
2. When the system "Fires", the power comes on but the solenoids, in the nitrous management unit, chatter.
I haven't done much to it in a while except a few decals
I'll probably sell it in the summer, and I don't want to put more money into it except for upkeep.
Finally paid Dyno Comp to just fix the damn thing and tune it safely.. which we did indeed. Crummy video, has some updated process pics too..
Mocking up the front splitter this weekend using 1/2 maple plywood, which will then keep as a template and convert over to 3/8 abs.
Need to slightly reshape the rear drivers side flare, and then I can start fiberglassing over shaped foam and build out my rear bumper shapes.
Aside from body work on the front and rear, and finishing off the otherwise gutted interior behind the seats, should be done in or before May.
sorry for the late reply Spike but yes, top of the arches. You were asking about my rust.
Thanks for the reply. I asked position because the top of the wheel fender is a common spot. The likely cause is pulling the car down tightly on its suspension during its ride on a ship from Japan. The fender is slightly compromised by this, and the rust appears at the top of the arch.
Took my Z to Specialty Z. Met Seb, LJ and I believe Johnny?(shipping clerk) Awesome services, awesome experience, loved it!
Got new NGK LI installed. Old sparkplugs (possibly OEM from Factory, Denso) revealed to be burned up healthy, engine been revealed to be running healthy as well! Great news all round considering I have 130K miles. We did had trouble with the idle relearn for some time. The answer eventually came which was to reflash the ECU to an 2008 ROM. I have an 07'.This took two days to come to light. LJ was ready to walk away til' his legs collapsed. What a day. While that great, but I had to shell out for new twin throttle bodies which may not have been necessary.
The dealer couldn't even do an idle relearn on an 07', once uploaded an 08' ROM, the Z has successfully relearned on the first try! Please all 07' owner, please please take note!! Save yourself money and time, that you must upload an 08' ROM onto your 07' Z to do an idle relearn.
I got my baseline run, putting down 270 HP 254 TQ, pretty low for an HR Could just be that its an AT? Only have dual-long tube Intakes, HFC, exhaust. Will be coming back with ID 1000cc, AEM pump and E85. Have a video, nothing impressive. Can view it at my Instagram story: @zwei_the_c
Sorry no pic, just lazy. But I know pics are always a plus!
EDIT: I did forgot to mention, I added an HKS sticker to both quarter windows. Am I rice? Serious answers plz. And no, HKS does not make GT or Turbos for HR....
Last edited by zwei_the_c; 03-30-2019 at 12:05 AM.
If you already haven't done so, get a 3.7 or 3.9 lsd rear diff. Will make more of a difference in drive feel and acceleration than all of your mods combined.
03-10-2019, 06:59 AM
