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2003-2009 Nissan 350Z

Rear differential dried oil stains

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Old 10-25-2016, 04:30 AM
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Baters
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Default Rear differential dried oil stains

I'm considering buying a 2005 manual with the below pic of rear diff. How concerned should I be on a scale of 1 to 10??

Whats the best and worse case scenario of what could've caused those dried oil stains?

Thanks a bunch!


Old 10-25-2016, 05:26 AM
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travlee
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could be a blown out gasket. hard to say, i would be more concerned with the goo on the rear subframe from the bushing.
Old 10-25-2016, 05:39 AM
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SQuaLZ
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Looks like the oil from the rear diff bushing. Typically it runs down the rear subframe itself, not sure if it would also run down the diff but I couldn't see why not.

Pretty common thing on the Z. You will have to change out the bushing.

Also, it could possibly be from the breather hose but if I remember correctly, the breather hose is located to the right, not the left. So my money is on the rear diff bushing.
Old 10-25-2016, 06:13 AM
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HRMoneyPit
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Looks like all that mess if the goo from the diff bushing. From that really bad picture
Old 10-25-2016, 06:13 AM
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MicVelo
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Originally Posted by SQuaLZ
Looks like the oil from the rear diff bushing. Typically it runs down the rear subframe itself, not sure if it would also run down the diff but I couldn't see why not.

Pretty common thing on the Z. You will have to change out the bushing.

Also, it could possibly be from the breather hose but if I remember correctly, the breather hose is located to the right, not the left. So my money is on the rear diff bushing.
^^^ I'd venture this as well.



Although how it got on the pumpkin itself is kind of mystery so this isn't definitive.
Old 10-25-2016, 06:20 AM
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travlee
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but the goo from the diff bushing looks different to me, more black than brown like is showing on the diff cover
Old 10-25-2016, 06:31 AM
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Nissan charges about $1400 to fix that since they won't simply replace the blown bushing, but charge for an entirely new subframe. If you buy this, you'll either need to do that or replace that with an OEM, polyurethane or an aluminum one and find a shop to replace it. May as well get the diff bushings replaced too while it's disassembled.

I'm guessing that's why he's selling it to avoid the hassle of doing this himself.
Old 10-25-2016, 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by travlee
but the goo from the diff bushing looks different to me, more black than brown like is showing on the diff cover
Burnt on the exhaust pipe?

Ummm, yes, I've dropped oil on headers many a time. Heh heh. You try adjusting solid lifter tappets on a small block Chev without a specially cut up valve cover to keep the ooze off the exhaust.


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Old 10-25-2016, 07:57 AM
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SQuaLZ
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Honestly, if that's the only issue with the car and the price is good I wouldn't let it deter you from purchasing it.

You can easily find a used diff for sale for cheap and it's not too bad to change the rear bushing.

I am putting my OEM VLSD for sale soon and also the diff bushing remover from Z1.
Old 10-25-2016, 11:41 AM
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CK_32
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That car is a goo and rust fest.

If the price is good take it but expect to have a fixed upper. I'm assuming your near a wet coast?
Old 10-25-2016, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by SQuaLZ
Honestly, if that's the only issue with the car and the price is good I wouldn't let it deter you from purchasing it.
^ This.
Old 10-25-2016, 05:45 PM
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Can see oil on the rear cradle too, it's the bushing. Simple as mentioned above
Old 10-27-2016, 03:58 AM
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Baters
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Default Thanks for all the replies!

I've decided to pass on this particular Z but another question: on average, how many miles before major mechanical issues? 100k, 125k? (assuming it was not raced, beaten, not well maintained)

Last edited by Baters; 10-27-2016 at 05:38 AM.
Old 10-27-2016, 05:42 AM
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Impossible to say
Old 10-27-2016, 11:03 AM
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SQuaLZ
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Way too many factors

You can have a car with 200k run better than the same cars with 100k miles

Just remember, stuff like the diff, brakes, exhaust, etc can be changed with ease.

Most important things to look at, in my opinion, when it comes to looking at used cars...

The frame, accident history, electronics, engine, transmission, clutch, suspension, rust, etc.
Old 10-27-2016, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Baters
I've decided to pass on this particular Z but another question: on average, how many miles before major mechanical issues? 100k, 125k? (assuming it was not raced, beaten, not well maintained)
I beat the crap out of mine and it's got 159k on it. Biggest major problem, diff bushing, Lca bushings and wheel bearings. Oh I did sheer the flywheel off the crank a while back.
Old 11-15-2016, 07:23 AM
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Default Best to replace Flywheel with clutch??

So I actually got this Z last weekend! Seller came down the price of a new clutch and bushing install. Since money is tight on my end, how bad of an idea is it to keep the stock flywheel when replacing the clutch?

Thanks for all yalls help!!
Old 11-15-2016, 07:51 AM
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SQuaLZ
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Originally Posted by Baters
So I actually got this Z last weekend! Seller came down the price of a new clutch and bushing install. Since money is tight on my end, how bad of an idea is it to keep the stock flywheel when replacing the clutch?

Thanks for all yalls help!!
Since it is being opened might as well change the flywheel since you don't know the condition that it's in.
Old 11-15-2016, 07:51 AM
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Congrats on the purchase by the way!
Old 11-15-2016, 11:46 AM
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Take a picture of the bushing and post it up... It could be that someone tried to fill the differential through the vent tube and just over filled the **** out of it... I dont think the rear diff bushing has that much fluid in it, I could be wrong though. Mine didnt have any fluid in it when I cut it out of my subframe.

Last edited by dboyzalter; 11-15-2016 at 11:50 AM.



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