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The hood vents are a great mod. So far I have been hitting 260-270 oil temps and yes still no oil cooler. Track season is done and its time to install new nismo suspension bushings and diff bushings along with a nismo gt pro lsd.
Yeah, i got a few more goodies to put on as well. I only have a 19 row cooler. Maybe I should of got a larger one. As mentioned above my temps on the hot laps are around 247.
I didn't spend crazy money on a cooler. Ebay one. . . Only one issue, the O-ring that came with the kit was to small and would leak oil. I ended up using a o-ring from an old oil filter. That' fixed the issue right up.
You are driving a pretty clean line ! you should be able to tell what you need for this track.
1. Alignment, are you running a aggressive camber front and rear ? This track would probably benefit from an mild camber front and less aggressive rear. like maybe -2 to -2.5 front and -2 or lower in rear. I'll add a little toe to stabilize the braking but not much. This will eat you RE71's pretty quick on the street. I am running a very mild -1.8F -1.6R to have a good balance but I do have a staggered set. 245/40F 265/40R
2. Rear Diff. how is it holding on ? I suppose you have the VLSD. does it loosen after a few "hot laps" ? This track is probably not as hard on diff as summit point but you could gain some exit speed. also, changing the final drive might help you in keep the engine in the powerband. A 3.9 or 4.08 should be enough.
3. Do you have aftermarket swaybars ? I've noticed that softening the rear help a lot for my driving style. try to remove all sway preload on the rear with adjustable links. on the front, it all depends on the tires and spring rate. I am running mild rates which help me learn the tire limits on the front. Very drive-able on street.
Finally, you don't seem to have any big aero ( is there any areo kit that really work on this car ? ) . I'd suggest to start soft on the rear and a little stiffer on front. are you going to run the b12 on stock springs or are you actually using aftermarket springs ?
For me, this car requires more mechanical grip than aero. I've added a front splitter/undershroud combo that help the front and running a stronger rake than oem (lower and stiffer front / higher and softer rear) to help straight line and braking stability.
But like as said, you are the one driving your car and it looks like you are good enough to tell the shortcomings of its handling. A lot of it depends on the driving style and my or other people recommendations might not work for you.
Thanks for all the input. This past season (2018) I was running on all stock suspension. So no camber adjustments at all. Next season (2019) I'll have adjustable camber. I'll be running a square setup of 245 on all corners.
I'll be running the springs that come on the B12 Pro Kit. Reason for the B12 kit instead of coil overs, is I didn't want to mess around with all the adjustments. Is it the best kit? Most likely not, but I think it was the best one for me.
As for the VLSD, I can feel it loosen a bit, but only on one corner of the track. So it's really not that bad. Corner is up a large hill (2nd Gear), while turning right... I can feel it slipping if I don't ease on the gas.
Right now I am on the stock sway bars. Some people swear by stock, others say get adjustable. I figured I will decide after I get the B12 kit on and some track time.
Mods on the Z already.
1. SS brake Lines
2. Carbotech XP10 front XP8 rear pads
3. Oil Cooler / Temp Gauge
4. Z1 Master Cylinder brace
5. Z1 under tray
6. Air Vent Bumper Mod
7. mod? But I trimmed the brake heat shields to help cooling.
Mods I picked up for next season.
1. New Track Tires - Square setup. 245, Running 4 stock rear rims (These will only be on driving to the track, track time, and back home.)
2. Slotted brake rotors all four corners
3. Front and Rear SPC camber arms
4. Hood Vents
5. B12 Pro Kit
To be honest. Mines not ready either. Just need semi nice weather so I can work on it
While installing the dampers, an easy and lazy way is to disconnect the swaybar link and the rear of the lower arm ( of course with the wheel off to access everything). this is the shortest way to do it. (only 2 bolts/nuts and the sway link ) to remove in the suspension in the wheel well. While you are at it, check the bushing on the lower arm. I replaced mine with Poly when I swapped mine, mine was shot and not centered anymore. BE careful not to pull on the abs cable. This bends the bracket and the front one are very sensitive, a slight bend can throw and ABS error and can ruin your abs solenoid ( don't ask me how I know :-) )
For the hood vent, I got a tip on how to remove heat without cutting into the hood. Simply remove the weather strip on the back that seal the whole engine bay. It is the straight one that goes behind the 2 compartments ( battery and brake ). This helps a little as the air rushing on the windshield creates a negative pressure zone right where the wipers opening is.
For brakes rotors , they are pretty simple to swap. Don't forget to release the hand brakes for the rear ones. the rear ones are a drum/disk combo. Also, make sure they are not directional vines. if they are , they should be an arrow to tell which way is forward to differentiate between left and right ones.
Good luck wrenching. The weather here is not too bad and I just finished installing my kirk racing roll bar yesterday. waiting on seat mounts and harnesses. I just got 2 used sparco evo2 seats for my Z.
For the hood vent, I got a tip on how to remove heat without cutting into the hood. Simply remove the weather strip on the back that seal the whole engine bay. It is the straight one that goes behind the 2 compartments ( battery and brake ). This helps a little as the air rushing on the windshield creates a negative pressure zone right where the wipers opening is.
Thanks for all the tips.
As for the hood vents. I already purchased them. So would you still just pull the rear seal or install the vents if you had them already?
Revup is what I have, 05 Anniversary Edition. Thanks for the info. So the Spacer wouldn't help me out then....
A spacer has been proven to make power on the Revup motor if combined with a Motordyne MREV2 (or similar) lower plenum, which is basically a modified non-revup lower plenum.
08-16-2018, 09:36 AM
Looking good.
