Mark Vereshchak

So I just swapped motors and transferred my flywheel over to the replacement motor. I torqued it to 70 ftlbs (FSM says 63ftlb). I finished the swap and later found out most people suggest red loctite. Do I need to pull it apart again to avoid catastrophic failure or is torquing it enough?

Atreyu'z 350

Honestly, some people will say you need it and some will say you don't.. It's up to you.

iideadeyeii

iTrader: (6)

I always do flywheel/pressure plate bolts. Although I wouldn't re-take it apart to do

trusovici

iTrader: (2)

just did my clutch and fly, i used blue loctite and fsm torque specs. when removing i didnt notice any factory thread lock on any bolts.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

I thread-loc (usually blue) any critical hardware....

rancor

Who would recomend red? Always use blue unless you never want to get it apart again.

But nissan doesn't recommend any loctite in the FSM.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

I would, but then again I’m probably the only one to have sheared flywheel bolts on my Z

APTech

+1 on blue loctite. Learned my lesson when one bolt came off on the freeway. Legit thought i threw a rod.

Mark Vereshchak

So unanimous decision that I should take it apart again? I'm not down to throw a rod again especially if its not from doing hoodrat sh*t.

Did your flywheel bolts shear from fatiguing or did they back themselves out far enough that they finally gave?

APTech

uhhh... I wouldn't necessarily say take it apart again unless you aren't fully done with the install lol. I didn't throw a rod, it just SOUNDED like i did. and one bolt backed itself out (solid mounts may have had to do with it).

zakmartin

I wouldn't take it apart again. That said, FSM recommendations are really only going to apply to OEM parts. If an aftermarket part calls for loctitie, then use it. Otherwise, as long as the threads aren't covered in penetrating oil, you should be fine. Also, I wouldn't recommend over-torquing a bolt just to give it a "little extra." You risk stretching the bolt and weakening it.

At 70 ft-lbs on a 63 ft-lb spec, you're 11% over-torqued, which isn't that big a deal (unless you're talking about head bolts).

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

My flywheel was swapped at the dealer when my trans was warrantied out. I recon they reused the bolt and they fatigued over time. They showed crystallization before sheering. Than could be caused from slightly backing out

It’s not like my car has had an easy life either.

Mark Vereshchak

Your bolts literally sheared from fatiguing? That seems pretty flawed. I would think the material of the bolts would have been made from a stronger material that would crystallize, also could have been susceptible to heat cycling as well which could have caused the crystallizing

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

I had a ***** of a time getting oem flywheel bolts off, they have a star head bolt if I remember correctly, I can't believe my bit survived that mission.

Anyways red loctite is what you suggest to someone you don't like, or if you are really into self mutilation... Even the blue makes for a pain in the *** time.

I would definitely not take it apart just to add some loctite.