Power and sound loss after installing new cats
#1
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Power and sound loss after installing new cats
Hi everyone, I kind of ran into a problem a week after installing my cats. My 06 350z now drives like a Prius and won’t rev past 4-5k RPMs. Not getting a check engine light or any codes either. I had the O2 sensor unplugged for a week until yesterday, but the problem persisted after I plugged them back in. I was thinking maybe the new cats were clogged but I’m not sure. Anyone know what it might be?
#2
New Member
What kind of cats did you install?
#5
New Member
I agree with Bluestream. Can you just go back to your old cats?
BTW: That tidbit of info (problem started after installing aftermarket used cats) would have been a good (and logical) thing to include in your problem report.
BTW: That tidbit of info (problem started after installing aftermarket used cats) would have been a good (and logical) thing to include in your problem report.
The following 2 users liked this post by zakmartin:
BluestreamDE (11-27-2017),
Cux350z (11-28-2017)
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#8
New Member
If they're hindering your ride's performance the way you say they are, I'm guessing there's not much you can do to refurbish them. Buying used cats is generally a bad idea.
EDIT: I see you're from Texas. Were these from a flood damaged car?
EDIT: I see you're from Texas. Were these from a flood damaged car?
Last edited by zakmartin; 11-27-2017 at 04:08 PM.
#9
New Member
There are several things you can do to test the cats:
1. Temperature test - Measures the temperature of the piping on the inlet neck of the cat as well as the exit neck of the cat. If the cat is working properly there should be a 25-100 degree difference between the two ends, with the exit neck being the hotter end. Make sure that you are at normal operating temperature for this test.
2. Vacuum rebound test - Attach a vacuum gauge to a vacuum port on the intake. You'll need a helper for this one, and you may need to temporarily remove the vacuum line to the evap system. start the car and let it idle. Your vacuum should normally be between 15 - 20. Now as you're watching the gauge have someone blip the throttle. The vacuum should increase sharply and return to baseline sharply. If it takes a little while to return to that baseline number, that's not a good sign. Now raise the rpm's to around 2,500 while looking at the gauge. If the reading takes a while to climb or drops steadily, that's also not a good sign.
3. Remove both upstream O2 sensors to see if there's a performance difference. If there is..............It's not a good sign.
1. Temperature test - Measures the temperature of the piping on the inlet neck of the cat as well as the exit neck of the cat. If the cat is working properly there should be a 25-100 degree difference between the two ends, with the exit neck being the hotter end. Make sure that you are at normal operating temperature for this test.
2. Vacuum rebound test - Attach a vacuum gauge to a vacuum port on the intake. You'll need a helper for this one, and you may need to temporarily remove the vacuum line to the evap system. start the car and let it idle. Your vacuum should normally be between 15 - 20. Now as you're watching the gauge have someone blip the throttle. The vacuum should increase sharply and return to baseline sharply. If it takes a little while to return to that baseline number, that's not a good sign. Now raise the rpm's to around 2,500 while looking at the gauge. If the reading takes a while to climb or drops steadily, that's also not a good sign.
3. Remove both upstream O2 sensors to see if there's a performance difference. If there is..............It's not a good sign.
#11
hatersgonnahate
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i believe he is saying new to the car/him, they were used.
Makes you wonder why the seller sold them or if they were damaged in shipping.
Careful that you don't try to just drive on them. They could get very very hot. Your fuel line runs down the passenger side not far from the cat.
Makes you wonder why the seller sold them or if they were damaged in shipping.
Careful that you don't try to just drive on them. They could get very very hot. Your fuel line runs down the passenger side not far from the cat.
#12
New Member
I've seen reports of people jacking up one of their O2 sensors if they use impact tools to remove the cats.
Keep in mind that you may need to drive for like an hour before the ECU will report the error codes.
Keep in mind that you may need to drive for like an hour before the ECU will report the error codes.
#13
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So I reinstalled the stock cats. Same problem. Code is gone for now, but I haven’t driven it too long so some may come. The car is operating exactly the same way as before. I know that the old cats that I bought were the cause because the interior was completely destroyed. Nothing I can do about them now, not gonna dwell on the crappy purchase of them either. Any ideas?
#14
New Member
The damaged used cats may have destroyed your downstream O2 sensors. Do a live scan to see what kind of numbers they're putting out.
EDIT:
"Code is gone for now"
What code? I thought your car wasn't throwing a CEL. Was it a hidden PID? If so, which one?
EDIT:
"Code is gone for now"
What code? I thought your car wasn't throwing a CEL. Was it a hidden PID? If so, which one?
Last edited by zakmartin; 11-29-2017 at 12:18 PM.
#15
Master
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So I reinstalled the stock cats. Same problem. Code is gone for now, but I haven’t driven it too long so some may come. The car is operating exactly the same way as before. I know that the old cats that I bought were the cause because the interior was completely destroyed. Nothing I can do about them now, not gonna dwell on the crappy purchase of them either. Any ideas?
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