M-train

iTrader: (3)

My ecm went out on my 05 Nissan. I bought a used ecm, and went to the dealership only for them to tell me that the used ecm was also bad.

Since I don't trust the dealership for $hit, so IF I can buy another used ecm , and get the matching ignition switch, key, and matching immobilizer that came in the car that had the used ecm, do I still have to take the car to the dealership for a reprogramming after installation?

What little I've have found out is that the only reason for taking the car to the dealership when swapping out a use ecm, is to match the used ecm with your original immobilizer, and ignition key, and add any updates to the programming.

Oh, and I ended up $250 paid to Nissan dealership on the last used ecm, and still no running vehicle. Which is why I'd rather not have to go back if I can.

WTF, are we supposed to do when our ecms fail now that Nissan no longer makes them new [from what several dealerships told me its hit/miss with used ecm being good]. Do we pay dealershit roulette for $130 to "find out" our used ecm we paid approx $100-150, is bad?

zakmartin

I'm getting a sense of deja vu from this thread:

https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-...y-stumped.html

The exact same issue you describe is discussed there.

If you don't want to pay dealer fees to program new keys and you want something that will talk with your car properly, you're going to have to fork out $$$$ for a proper diagnostic computer. I recently upgraded to an and it will do all of that for you and then some.

Edit:
Or you could just take the car to a non-dealership shop.

seymore4

iTrader: (27)

Also you can get an Uprev tune and bypass NATS completely

zakmartin

Yup. Either way, you have to pay to play. That's the unfortunate reality of anything built after 1975.

M-train

iTrader: (3)

I thought that if you buy the key, ignition switch, immobilizer, and matching ecm [all from the same vehicle], then you just install to your car, and drive?

M-train

iTrader: (3)

Well, I swapped everything out, and still no start. FTR, this is an 05 Altima SE-R automatic.

No communication with my Innova scanner, except in enhanced mode, then I get the ****ing U1000 code which means jack, and ****, except for, there is something wrong with the CAN buss. The last time I got a U1000 code all it was, was a bad cam sensor.

However with the oem ecm, and the second ecm I was getting a U1000 with a PO726 [ABS communication area network, or CAN, malfunction]. This time I do a scan on the ABS I get "this unit does not support ABS on this vehicle".

The cooling fans don't come on, the check engine light isn't on, and last the security light is on solid while cranking, but goes back to blinking when key is off.

Background, the car was running for nearly two years after I rebuilt the engine will ALL of the good stuff JWT cams, studs, Cometic head gaskets, Weisco 11:1 pistons, heads ported, intake gutted, full length headers, no cats, 3.5 exhaust, [been building engines, hot rods for over 35 years]. Built the auto transmission, all new oem sensors, IPDM, MAF, coil packs, plugs, injectors, Koni yellows, Raceline springs, new suspension, rack/pinion, Temkin wheel bearings, lower control arms, adjustable end links for the sway bar, new AC lines, heater hoses, rad hoses, belts, radiator, and fans.

So, like the other guy with the no start, and U1000, in the link above, I'm looking at parting it all out, or matches, and marshmallows.

M-train

iTrader: (3)

I checked every wire on the IPDM, and at the ecm relay I was getting a mystery 9.8v instead of the required 12v on one of the sockets. That 9.8v goes out to just about everything under the hood, MAF, cam/crank sensors.

Its coming from a switch source, but I cannot find out where, and since I just swapped in a different ignition switch I can't believe that is the problem. Its freezing cold today so I haven't checked to see if I'm still getting the mystery 9v with the new ecm/ign switch, but I would bet the car that I am.

Here is the ecm SOCKET from the IPDM, and shows the voltages. I'm going to find a switched 12v source tomorrow, and plug it into the outlet of the relay, and see if the engine starts.

zakmartin

A lot of the recycled parts places will guarantee their parts. Before taking the nuclear option, I'd try getting another used ECU, see if you get a signal from it and if yes, program your existing key with a bi-directional tool (most of the better ones do key programming, TPMS, etc. now).

If the third ECU is dead, you've probably got a short somewhere in the harness or a bad/missing ground. At least you'd get your money back though. THEN, I'd go with s'mores; they handle the gasoline taste better.

zakmartin

Is that the original IPDM on your car? Good find on the low voltage, btw.

EDIT:
What's the condition of your fusible link?

M-train

iTrader: (3)

The IPDM is brand new, well two years old, and approx 5k miles. I even swapped it out with the original which was known good. Still getting the mystery 9v.

At this point, including the original ecm, this is the third ecm, and if its bad, its bad in EXACTLY the same way as the others in that I'm getting a U1000 code.

The newest ecm came with a key, ign switch, immobilizer [security], with the ecm all from the same car. So the engine should run with this setup. Now the door locks, and OEM key fob,.........I don't know. I don know that with the second used ecm when I tried to start the engine, I got a flashing cel when the engine was cranking.

As a matter of fact, I might need to reset the vats by using the new key to lock/unlock the drivers door.

Also, all fusible links fine as well as all of the fuses.

M-train

iTrader: (3)

My "idea" when I bought the SER was to have a sporty 4 door vehicle so my wife wouldn't nag me, but also have a fun car that had a little more hp than other vehicles in its class, corner, and stop well.

So I put everything I could back new in the car so I would know what was in it, and it would be reliable........ha, ha, ha.

typy01

The above described problems are the same as I have been having, the main difference is I had my ECM rebuilt at SIA Electronics in Il. and then same problem, so I took it to the dealership, tow truck, and they found ?? I had a bad fuse panel, the large one behind the battery, so they installed a new one and LOW the same problem still existed !! So they said the ECM was bad (likely story) and they stated there were no new ones available, and their sources for used ones had none. SOO another tow truck and now the damn thing is in my drive behind the fence. I removed the ECM and sent it back to SIA and have not got it back yet. The reason I elected to have the original rebuilt was the settings and all the nightmares I have heard of in changing to a different one, and the re-builder reprograms the rebuilt one back to the original specs if you send the VIN number. OH!! I forgot to mention the dealership, even though they could not fix it, still charged me $967.00 !!

M-train

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the reply.

I hear you, the dealershit charged me as well. Of course I know their time is money, but when they hooked their Consult 3 to the car, and found it wasn't able to communicate with the ecm, all of about 3 minutes, then it should have been $20, and see ya next time. NOT, $150, IMO.

Anyway, at first I was going to do what you did, and send my ecm to a company that repaired them.

After calling several companies, they all were saying the same thing, they had NO PARTS to repair my ecm.

Now after hearing this from several places that got me to thinking they were all a scam.

See, my car is a bit on the rare side. They only made the Altima SE-R for 2 years, and the numbers for those cars [from what I've read] is under 6k made. This is most likely why these companies haven't got any "parts" for my ecm.

So, I would bet these "repair" companies just take a used ecm that matches your ecm, and take the circuit board out, and install it into your old ecm box. This way the ecm you get back looks exactly like the ecm you sent in as its the same outer cover.

If it don't work, your out what the dealershits charge you "try it", then you send it back to the repair company where the swap it out with yet another used core, then back to you for a repeat at the dealershits.

If you get your ecm back, PLEASE do the voltage check on the IPDM, ECM relay socket as in the picture above WITH THE KEY ON, and just see if you're getting the correct 12v BEFORE you send the car back to the dealershits.

M-train

iTrader: (3)

Update:

Yesterday I ran a switched 12v wire from my fuse box under the dash to pin B in the ECM relay drawing above. No start, but the fuel pump was making a clicking sound. So, I knew the battery, even though it was cranking the engine, was too weak [which might be a part of the problem, ie battery going bad].

Anyway, I tried cranking the engine with the battery charger running to give the old battery extra juice. Still no start.

For some reason I decided to get some starting fluid, and spray it into the throttle body [I opened the blade with a screwdriver].

I tried to start the engine again, and almost pissed my pants when it briefly fired up.

Tried the starting fluid again, and got the engine running although rough, then it died.

Also, I found out the throttle body [one of the few things not replace with new], is dead. I had my wife turn the key on, and floor the gas pedal, and the the throttle blade didn't budge. So now I KNOW that is part of the problem.

Next week I will check for fuel, and check to see if I'm still getting that mystery 9.8v at the ecm relay on the IPDM.

Also, I've got to check the throttle body wires for continuity. [I'm getting the required voltage on ecm pins 47,48, and 49, but failed pin 5 test with the pedal depress, which should have read batt voltage, but instead read 3.5v]

M-train

iTrader: (3)

So to answer my original question for anyone doing a search on this, year later, YES, if you buy a used ecm, key, ignition switch, immobilizer [on the key switch] all from the same vehicle you don't have to take the car to the dealer, as it should work just fine provide the used parts are all good.

M-train

iTrader: (3)

One question.

Since I'm pretty sure the throttle body is bad, can that shut down the injectors from firing?

We know I'm getting spark because the engine did run for a short while, but it ran only on the starting fluid, not fuel. I'm pretty sure fuel is getting to the injectors from the pump since I have a fuel gauge, and its showing the right fuel psi on prime.

I've worded a net search about a dozen different ways, and still cannot find out if a bad tb will keep the injectors from firing. All I get when I do a net search is how to clean, and change the tb. That is very frustrating.

Does anyone here know?

M-train

iTrader: (3)

Well, I pulled the fuel line from my fuel regulator to the injectors, and when I turned the key on a flood of fuel shot out, so now I know all of that is good.

Then I pulled an injector connection with the key on, and got batt voltage.

However, the battery is definitely bad, as relays start clicking whenever the key is on. Hook up the battery charger, and run it on 40 amps, and then turn the key on, and everything is quite.

zakmartin

Yeah, there's a strong likelihood that you killed the throttle body. There are a ton of threads on folks who manually move the butterfly having no choice but to replace the throttle body and do the re-learn.

Given what you did with the throttle body, I'm guessing it's not an injector issue and it's going to be a throttle replacement issue (check the Repair & Maintenance forum).

M-train

iTrader: (3)

No the throttle body was dead anyway before I manually opened it.

Also, I've cleaned it years ago, and held it open manually, and it ran fine for over two years. I've had the thing apart, and I can see what eventually wears out, and I'm guessing its never been replaced so I'm due.

If I can find it I will give the other guy the ecm pin diagnostic test so he can check the voltage [obviously skipping the tests where the car has to be running], and see the problem areas.

When I did the test both the brake pedal switch, and the throttle body sensors failed.

M-train

iTrader: (3)

Also, I do find it strange that the engine fired, and briefly ran using starting fluid, but today I found voltage at the injector connection with the key on, and plenty of fuel shot out from my adjustable regulator [between the fuel inj rail].

I'm hazarding to guess that somehow when the tb is fried the ecm won't let the injectors fire. [like I mentioned, the injectors are all new oem with maybe 5k miles on them].

Here is a shot of the engine so you can see the fuel regulator/gauge setup, and better understand what I'm speaking of.