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Welded Diff Q’s
Yes yes yes i know this topic is covered everywhere but i have a few questions i just can’t seem to find an answer for. I live in WA and i’m confident in my driving skills i’ve owned my Z for over a year and half now. If i weld the diff i plan to get solid bushings in the rear 1) How bad is it over 40mph? people say they make noises but i think that’s a myth or depends on the weld cause i’ve driven my friend e36 m3 with a welded and i got it up to 60-70 and he drives that thing at 100+ all the time and there isn’t any noises 2) Is it bad/unsafe to drive a welded at 100mph or over?i’m no speed demon but we have some nice highways in WA where i can get going, will the welded diff stop me from going fast? sorry again i know these are stupid questions but i don’t have the coin for a lsd and most people say 2-ways and welded are the same but most prefer the welded. anything helps. |
For starters, if you're driving at 100+ MPH on public roads, you're an idiot. Second, there's a wonderful racetrack in your state called Pacific Raceway (formerly Seattle International Raceway) that you should be taking your Z to. You'll go WAY faster, for a longer time, and without endangering anyone else.Third, while you're showing off your drifting skills at (any) racetrack with a welded diff, it's only a question of when you'll lose it and crunch a concrete wall when it gets wet. That's a serious drawback in a state that gets plenty of rainfall all the time.
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You have been considering this since 12/2017 . . . .
My Ford F150 has an electric Dif lock . . . . and my Yamaha Grizzly has a rear dif. lock always. I strongly suggest you drive a vehicle with 100% diff. lock (that is on all the time) when it is raining, on a curvy road, and even in parking lots, where tight cornering is necessary. You will quickly conclude that this is NOT a good idea. |
Originally Posted by dkmura
(Post 10970995)
For starters, if you're driving at 100+ MPH on public roads, you're an idiot. Second, there's a wonderful racetrack in your state called Pacific Raceway (formerly Seattle International Raceway) that you should be taking your Z to. You'll go WAY faster, for a longer time, and without endangering anyone else.Third, while you're showing off your drifting skills at (any) racetrack with a welded diff, it's only a question of when you'll lose it and crunch a concrete wall when it gets wet. That's a serious drawback in a state that gets plenty of rainfall all the time.
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My stock VSLD works very well. 145k miles.
Maybe I'm lucky? Both tires will spin on take off/2nd gear roll. MT-90 fluid. I couldn't imagine having the tires chirp on every turn. That would get annoying quick |
Originally Posted by travlee
(Post 10970997)
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Originally Posted by iideadeyeii
(Post 10971025)
My stock VSLD works very well. 145k miles.
Maybe I'm lucky? Both tires will spin on take off/2nd gear roll. MT-90 fluid. I couldn't imagine having the tires chirp on every turn. That would get annoying quick |
Originally Posted by JCat
(Post 10970999)
You have been considering this since 12/2017 . . . .
My Ford F150 has an electric Dif lock . . . . and my Yamaha Grizzly has a rear dif. lock always. I strongly suggest you drive a vehicle with 100% diff. lock (that is on all the time) when it is raining, on a curvy road, and even in parking lots, where tight cornering is necessary. You will quickly conclude that this is NOT a good idea. |
Originally Posted by Rhaneline
(Post 10971024)
soooooooo street tunning a car is for idiots? everyone who does highway pulls are idiots? anyone with a fast car who likes to drive it fast is an idiot? woah i didn’t know that.. and since it’s a serious “drawback” in a rainy state. what would someone use other than a 1.5 way? an open diff or a 2 way which is pretty much welded and doesn’t unlock unless a tire goes in the air and that’s only the quaife...
If it helps, I've raced a Nissan GT5 semi-tube car with a welded rear diff for many years, so I have experience. It put down the power well on a dry racetrack with Goodyear slicks, but always had the drawback of understeer on corner entry and snap oversteer from the apex to corner exit. Fast hands and a slow right foot helped, but was still not as quick as a properly setup LSD. For the street, it's like a snake in a box: tiring to stay on top of, but you don't want it getting out in the middle of a turn. |
Originally Posted by dkmura
(Post 10971091)
If you're serious about tuning, there's always dynos to rent and do it right. But highway pulls and street racing seriously jeopardize the safety of innocent bystanders. It happens all the time and has been a factor in many Z33 shunts around the country. You also IGNORED the suggestion to take it to a proper racetrack and learn to drive consistently fast. For someone who stated in his opening thread that "anything helps" as far as advice goes, you're way too sensitive.
If it helps, I've raced a Nissan GT5 semi-tube car with a welded rear diff for many years, so I have experience. It put down the power well on a dry racetrack with Goodyear slicks, but always had the drawback of understeer on corner entry and snap oversteer from the apex to corner exit. Fast hands and a slow right foot helped, but was still not as quick as a properly setup LSD. For the street, it's like a snake in a box: tiring to stay on top of, but you don't want it getting out in the middle of a turn. |
Welding diff won't make you understeer. It'll make you over steer and will drive worse at high speeds than stock. Solid diff bushings won't make it louder if you have a stock flywheel / stock trans mount bushing
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Not so bad
I've daily driven my welded diff for about a year and it's not so bad. The tires make a little bit of noise on slow and tight turns, but it doesn't "chirp". I still get some pretty good traction if I take a turn pretty fast, the rear doesn't kick out like most people say it would. Driving in the rain is a little unnerving when I go to work, but I just go a little slower and avoid deep puddles and the edge of the roads. I take the highway to work fyi. I have BFGoodrich sport comps in the rears as well. You could do what I did at first and buy a spare open and have it welded, if you don't like it then swap it out and sell it. If you do, then you have a spare to build. I drift my Z monthly at the local track, do highway pulls every now and then and some spirited back roads driving as well.
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