Snow Blind

So I have a pretty basic 2006 rev up 350z. It has a cold air intake, stage 2 clutch, and cat back exhaust. I was looking to get new cams for it and I was curious too see what other people put on their rev up engine and what they recommend. I don't really care if it need to be tuned after the install either.

LexD

Most don't consider aftermarket cams a good bang for your buck mod.

Cams + install + tune = your generally going to be in for well over $1500 and is that really worth the 15hp you'll move from the midrange to top-end? Most don't think so.
But if you're determined, I've read people having good results with the JWT S2 cams as well as offerings from BC Greddy, and Tomei.

iideadeyeii

iTrader: (6)

Why did you install a stage 2 clutch?

Snow Blind

When I bought the car it needed a new clutch so i bought a single disk flywheel and stage 2 clutch bundle. Because race car.

RENFRO

iTrader: (1)

Listen to people who have actually done it.

I picked up 34rwhp with cams on my non-revup DE and they pushed me over 300rwhp on a stock short block.

Yes, it can be costly up front, but it depends on your long term goals. Regardless, cams will serve you. Staying NA, they work. High compression built, they work. Nitrous, they work. Boost, they work.

If you stick with the platform for a long period of time and plan to continue to mod it, cams will be in your future. The specific brand, duration, and lift will be dependent on those long term goals.

I picked the Tomei 272/10.5mm cams and love them. Makes plenty of power up top and completely changed the feeling of the car.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

I agree with everyone ... but look into the basic bolt-ons and a tune first. I have JWT 264degrees and I thought it livened up the car a bit and on a turbo'd/supercharged build it really pulled a punch.

onevq35de

Chased this post down from your "recent posts" list. I don't think I've read anyone write about just how much power they got from cams alone, with or without existing mods. 34hp is a nice chunk. How about torque? What effect did they have on mid-range, or should I ask if they traded mid for top end? Got any dyno charts you're willing to share, a before and after or just an after?

RENFRO

iTrader: (1)

I did pick up torque as well, but it did shift. I'll have to dig up the charts on my phone. I picked up a good bit of the midrange torque back after I added the larger bore intake as well.

onevq35de

That'd be swell. If you've got the time I'd love to see it.

Shoomakan

I didn't end up with 272's because I didn't feel like investing in a new valve train (springs at least). Glad to see they make a bit more power than my BC 264's. I figured at the time if I supercharge it either cam will be just fine anyway.

OP, cams are usually paired with headers (long tubes if you can afford them are awesome). I'd also change the factory Y-pipe and test pipes regardless if you cam it or not as they are heavy and also a restriction. Just don't get sucked too far into investing $ into a naturally aspirated DE. Past 260whp things get mighty expensive ($/hp wise). I mean, sure, my cams netted me 22whp but they cost me $1400 installed. That's $63 per horse. A brand new complete Vortech kit is $6000, and yields 420hp on stock pulley. Assuming it costs $1000 to install it, that's $50 per horse. See what I mean? Different cog and pulley setup and you will see 500hp out of that kit, too.

onevq35de

Horsepower isn't necessarily something that needs to be "cost effective". If you're building a track or strip car, sure, but a street car, not so much. There's someone on here who's avatar reads something like " nat.asp. is the expensive way to go slow". One could say "FI is the expensive way to brake your ****, the gift that keeps on giving and braking your ****".
A nat. asp. build will cost more and with less power but will be more reliable, less weight, less b.s., more room in the bay and all around less of a pita. N2O can balance the power, assuming one is not a crack addict. I'm not against using a compressor but would prefer to do without one. To me, it's just a necessary evil if I want to make more power than a 6 cylinder japanese engine nat. asp. will allow for and don't want to be inconvenienced by filling bottles. All things considered, a rear mounted turbo (or 2 if one is not enough) is the next best approach after nat.asp. w/n2o.
Hey Renfro, got those cam charts?

Shoomakan

Oh I'm with you on that. I prefer NA over anything else on this platform, but it's not because it's "better". I'd love a ton of power, but truth be told.. No drag strip in Lebanon to chase 1/4 mile times, and all of our "tracks" are tiny karting tracks with that you can usually complete a full lap without shifting to 3rd gear. And I'm not a roll racer, either... I just can't justify dishing out so much coin for an FI solution when I have nowhere to really take advantage of it. The reason I picked 264 degree camshafts is because they make the car (in my eyes at least) feel like how it should have been from the factory. Making power to just before redline and howling on its way there. To make full use of 272's I feel like a bigger TB is required, alongside a valvetrain upgrade to handle the increased RPM reliably. I simply didn't want to pay that much. My redline is still at the stock 6600 with my 264's, FWIW.

I guess OP needs to be more clear on what his intentions are and mod accordingly. But what I definitely can suggest is that headers and an aftermarket Y-pipe be added before cams are even thought of. Restoring the stock RevUp airbox wouldn't be amiss, either.

LexD

After all this :
Tomei Headers and Cams 264/264
-Jim Wolf Tech Popcharger
-Stillen Z-Tube
-Motordyne 5/16th Spacer
-Motordyne MREV2
-Ichiba Headers (similar to strup/dc/nismo)
-Ichiba Test Pipes
-Motordyne XYZ + Resonator
-Motordyne Dual Gamma Exhaust
-Motordyne Coolant Control Valve
-Unorthodox Racing Underdrive Pulleys
-Unorthodox Racing Flywheel
-Southbend OFE Stage 3 Clutch
-Osiris Tune

OP picked up 49HP/40TQ. Dyno chart in post. https://my350z.com/forum/na-builds/4...m-install.html

onevq35de

Nice. Looks like op's downfall is the z-tube, pop-crapper and ichiba headers.

The numbers above are with the Ichiba headers and PRIOR to the Tomei headers. After Tomei, 263/244 for a total gain of 54hp/46tq and a much better power band.


The only things here that made power are;

Tomei Headers and Cams 264/264
-Motordyne 5/16th Spacer
-Motordyne MREV2
-Ichiba Headers (similar to strup/dc/nismo)
-Ichiba Test Pipes
-Unorthodox Racing Underdrive Pulleys
-Osiris Tune

OP would get another 10-20 hp/tq with a large diameter intake & maf housing. The other items, while not increasing power certainly increased acceleration.