Different approach to differential bushing
 

Think it will work? Think it will last? It was fairly easy- no blood, no cursing, cheap. Unfortunately I won't get to test it until winter passes.

My homemade bodywork for Daytona caught a bit of hate, but that turned out fine..

i wouldnt trust it, as much as a pain the diff bushing was.... i would rather do it properly

Where do you think the failure point will be?

to me, i wouldnt trust the little bit of bushing you made. how thick is it?

The thickness is the full height of the gap between the oem bushing's center pipe and outer ring, when the differential is pressed upward with a jack. That's the largest opening height possible. The depth is all the way to the back of that same opening.

The left and right sides contact the OEM's existing solid sections.

Better option would be to fill it with 3m urethane Windoweld like the old school Honda guys used to do.

I actually did try that epoxy injection method per the popular YouTube video by motorvateDIY(?). It didn't work well for me. I think a lot of it has to do with the deformation of the bushing pocket and trapped air making for a not-very-solid piece of hardened resin.

I'm not sure I understand the purpose of this. You can get a Prothane kit for like $35 off Ebay and it includes the ear bushings (which need to be burned out). It seems like the reason the diff bushings go bad in the first place is the rubber gets old and brittle. Same rubber in diff bushing and the ear bushings... The worst part of the job for me was trying to get my driver side hub off. When it finally went I was putting all my weight on a breaker bar cheater pipe. I came down so hard I nearly broke my ankle.

The purpose was to attack the problem with objects i had at the ready, and take a shot at avoiding what looks like a potentially very aggravating process to do on my own. Not hitting my ankle with a cheater pipe was certainly an unforseen bonus.

Never heard of that nor seen your method, cool beans that you came up with another way. The Windoweld method when done correctly has been proven by countless SCCA drivers over many years from engine, tranny, diff, to even even control arm bushings.

wonder how long before it fails

^ Same. When mine failed and my mechanic told me I could either go OEM and replace it again, Poly and deal with squeaking and aluminum - do it once and forget about it. I hurried up and just ordered solid ones from SIKKY. :dunno:

https://g35driver.com/forums/brakes-...ushings-5.html

Great discussion about this on g35driver where a member used liquid polyurethane, got good results, and posted pictures (I'm cswlightning). Window weld would probably work too but it takes forever to dry and is hard to work with because of its viscosity. It's also softer than what you want for this application given how thick the bushing needs to be.