350Z won’t start after new valve covers
 

So it started like this, I woke up one morning and wanted to put new spark plugs in my 04 350Z base automatic trans .I have one more payment before I can finally put some money into her but anyways went to put them in and noticed a lot of oil on a coil pack .I ordered new valve covers to fix the leak ,I also ordered a Kinetix v+ intake manifold at the same time and new gaskets for everything I had to take off . I took off the upper plenum ,lower plenum, the fuel rails and the spacer from the lower plenum to the block I don’t know what the park is called sorry don’t roast me . I cleaned the Whole intake system with brake cleaner got all the oil off of everything got all the parts in put everything on . I looked up a video on how to change the valve covers and followed step by step . Read the instructions on the Kinetix manifold had everything hooked up right the ground was grounded all the clips were in went to go start her up and no start just crank . Took EVERYTHING off checked it put it all back together went to start it and still no start just a crank .... so I put a sprayed a little starter fluid in her she started up but died right after got some grey smoke out of the exhaust . More starter fluid same thing so we tried it again and when it started up the Kinetix v+ manifold literally blew off the lower plenum . So I’m getting a new one sent in hopefully in 2 weeks but after that I put the old manifold on because I have to drive my car and still it won’t start . I checked every fuse , switched relays and Cleaned the connectors She ran fine before I started. I forgot to undo the battery half way threw taking the lower manifold off . She isn’t throwing any codes pls help

With so many things changed, an internet diagnosis is pretty difficult. You might try taking your car to a mechanic to see if he can help.

Only thing I changed was the spark plugs .. and the intake but the old one is back on now

Sounds like it’s a fuel issue since the starting fluid was able to make it fire for a couple secs. You didn’t mess around with the throttle body did you? Even cleaning that thing can make it require a reset.

I did clean it , but I did resets on everything . I just pulled one of the injectors off and gas came out wouldn’t that mean it’s getting gas?

What els should I do to check if it’s a gas issue? I checked the fuel pump relay and fuse the fuel pump was fine before I don’t see why it would have gone out from me not driving for a week

Fuel to the injector is a good sign. Considering the work you did my guess would be either an air problem or a fuel problem.

Do you have a code reader? That’s going to be your next step here.

What OBD scanner are you using? You should be getting a code if the engine won't run.

Using a FOXWELL OBDII EOBD Code Reader she’s not throwing any codes

You may need to check this with a Nissan Consult 3 Plus V65.12

That’s $600 and I don’t have a computer for the program.. any other suggestions?

When I have experienced problems, I tried getting codes with an OBD code reader. The result was poor, and I did not get a code(s).

You have the best results with the 3450z when reading codes using Nissan's Consult III OBD.

Double check your coil-pack wiring harness connections. It's extremely easy to cross some of these. My money is on a crossed connection, which could very well lead to a no start scenario due to ignition timing being woefully off. I labeled all of mine carefully before disconnecting to avoid such an issue. I truly hope it's something that simple.

In a nutshell, if you have fuel, air, and good compression, then it's most likely a timing issue. Even if you were down 1 coil pack or 1 injector, the engine would still start and run (albeit not well) assuming your timing is correct. I want to say the common plugs to cross is on cylinder bank 2, specifically cylinders 2 & 4 or maybe 4 & 6, but my memory is fuzzy, the last time I tooled around there was 2~3 years ago. The injector wiring harness is made in such a way that it would actually be difficult to cross a plug, so I don't think you have to worry about those. Note that the OEM harness at the coil-packs is labeled/numbered, however these white labels dry out and fall off very easily when handled, but maybe you get lucky and the labels are still intact for inspection.
-Icer

Figured it out ?
 

Found the problem boys ... good ole stealership half assed something .how do I go by getting the wires back into the connector?
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....787103b478.jpg

Yikes! You will need to re-pin the plug. Is that your throttlebody plug? There's some good online stores that sell replacement plugs and pin kits. You might be able to salvage the existing wiring, but you will need to get that top left corner pin out without breaking things. Never use that dealership again, I only trust a few tuner shops with my Z for reasons such as these. Tuner shops rely heavily on customer satisfaction and word of mouth while dealerships just rely on brand recognition to survive. Many dealer techs are fresh out of a training program with very little real world experience. The master techs are usually kept busy with the bigger jobs that earn the most cash.
-Icer

That blue wire looks like it’s a bigger gauge than the others. Did they snip something and this is a bad patch job?

If the car was running fine before I would not mess with that that was certainly done with intention badly done maybe but with intention
When you go to do something like spark plugs if the car is running fine before you don't do any more modifications..

Until it runs fine again

One thing at a time

I would bet it's a

99.9999% you switched the coil pack leads on cylinder 4 and 6..

If you are gonnna ever take coil packs off a car always number with tape..
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....7d0ebe1fd4.png

..

Thank u guys for all the help . She is up and running now

What was the final verdict? Was it a coil pack issue or that plug? or a combo of both?
-Icer

If you use foxwell nt530 code reader, it will read out the fault code.