03 350z touring cranks but wont start
 

i own a 2003 350z touring before i get to the problem i just want to say from oct-feb i have not driven the car within those month but i did turn it on to move parking spot like twice. lately after i came back from a road trip my car starting having starting problem where it crank and try to start but doesnt start i look on the forum and they all said check the spark plug, coil, ignition switch, battery and starter and they were all good. i can hear my car trying to start but it wont however when my friend pushstart it and it work (but that was after we push it) for the first time after we tried 1st pushstart and 2nd clutch dump pushstart and it tried to start but didnt then my friend got in and start the car with no problem. i will say this tho my car key broke in half and the other half is in the switch (it always started with the half the key in there until now) my friend said it might be a problem in the anti thief system but idk how to check it

there is a small RF id chip embedded in the key.... if that chip is not close enough to the ignition slot, the car will never start. However, you say it started before with this same broken key?

yes it always started with the same broken key up until now

however i have to push it up to a point where it start but now it feel like it not working anymore

I think your first move here is to get that key replaced...

if it was antitheft the nats light would be on. how many miles, when it starts does it take a while and then it randomly shuts off?

Could be bad gas. I assume you left the same fuel sitting in the car for 5 months? If you're using gas with ethanol in it, it may have separated in the tank. The water will end up at the bottom and your fuel pump will be sucking that first. I would siphon the gas out of the tank and put some fresh gas in there.
-Icer

i just hit 113k last weekend and when the car was sitting i was low on gas and i put new gas in.

and when i had to push start sometime it took a couples of sec to start and sometime it just started right away and now the car will not start anymore

At this point I would hook up a scanner and look for any trouble codes. I hope you didn't have any rodents or critters make a nest in the vehicle while it sat through the winter months, chewed up wiring could also cause problems like this.
-Icer

My guess would be camshaft sensors

oh no.. i did see alot of ant coming out of my car from the engine bay

update: my roomate was looking at cynlinder 1 spark plugs while i was crank and it didnt spark at all we check the ignition coil on that cynlinder and i think i got 7.14ohm or 14.7ohms (im double checking the rest tomorrow) what is the spec for the coil? some ppls on the forums are saying anything higher than 0 is good or around 10k ohm.
and tomorrow i will see if i can get a obd scanner.

so i hooked it up last night and i got 3 code p1610,p1614 and p1615 so later today i will see if i can get ignition switch that come with it key from a parted out 350z
im wondering if i have to reprogram the system to make the key work or do i just plug and turn.?

I got the cover out but I’m stuck here
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....c9bb5a134.jpeg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....93b449de7.jpeg

I don't know much about replacing the ignition system in a Z. But if you suspect it's bad, I would throw in the towel and take it to a dealer. You will most certainly have to get the anti-theft system re-programmed to work with the key(s). You can try disconnecting the battery for 30min to an hour to clear/reset the security system and try again with your keys. It sounds like the anti-theft system has locked you out, hence no spark.
-Icer

What you are looking at are the broken off sheared head bolts. This is a security feature to make it more difficult to remove the ignition lock.

You will have to drill into those bolt heads and use an easy out to remove them. You may wind up drilling them completely out if you can't get them to turn with the easy out.

When using an easy out, be careful not to break it off while you're applying torque. Otherwise, you will have negated the hole you just drilled into the bolt. And, you likely can't redrill it through the leftover easy out.

Your best bet may be to try a hooked pick or something to try to turn off and pry out the broken piece of the key.

update i got a new ignition that came with a key (for the old ignition bolt i chisel a line to use a flathead)
the dude i got it from told me to use a 10mm and a drill put it over it and let it spin and it will come off and it work it was so fast and easy
anyway back to problem i had a locksmith come and try to reprogram the system to work with the switch and key he couldnt do anything cuz of the immoblilizer was lock on and he couldnt do anything but scan the system then he wanted to try something so he took out another scan that read the bcm and wouldnt read or show anything (his mechanic friend told him to do that) i think he said he put he right pin but it kept showing error or something dont remember. so right now im checking the bcm wires and connector and everything seem good so i took out the bcm and took a look inside to see if anthing is fried [nope]. anyone have any input they want to shard about this before i buy another bcm
ps: i cant take my car to any nissan stealership cuz im over the 100k mile liite (at 113k) however im waiting for a techin to give me a call to help me out

I'm confused on that statement. A dealership should work on the car, you will have to pay their rates, though, and they will likely only use parts bought through them, too. If there was an extended warranty that has expired, well, this is one of the repairs you'll need to pay for. Because the immobilizer and keys are involved, I think you'll have to use a dealer to resolve this situation.

i called yesterday and they said they cannot work on nissan vechicle that had reach over 100k mile they said it a policy idk why